Dnorris1369 Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Question for you guys. Working on Marc's end grain cutting board. Is the way he cuts the strips against the fence safe? It's seems the best way to get all strips even. But dont wanna get in a bad situation Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I've never understood the notion that ripping a thin piece between blade and fence is any more dangerous than ripping a thicker one. All the same safety precautions should apply. I especially like to use a sacrificial push block whose sole has a 'heel' on the back to push the work forward as well as down. Using this method, I have never had a piece try to kick back, wide or thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I just realized that you may be referring to a cross cut. Sorry, its been a while since I saw that video. For cross cuts, leaving an unsupported chunk of wood between blade and fence creates a very strong risk of kickback. However, if the cut is supported by a sled or miter gage extension, no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBear Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 This is one of the cuts where I LOVE my 'GRRRRIPER' (pardon my spelling).. Control through the whole cut is key IMHO.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I typically use my cross cut sled and a stop block when I make these. Repeatable and safer. With that said, I have a Grr-Ripper coming so, will have to consider that option in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 +1 for the Grrripper it has improved the safety and cut quality when performing narrow rips for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnorris1369 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I have a gripper so I can go that route just wanted some opinions before I attempted Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 The issue with thin strips is the chance of them getting caught between the blade and the fence, with many occassions that a push stick or block would be too big to complete the pass through the blade, resulting in potential kickback. The Grr-ripper does let you go down to 1/8" thick pass safely because you have complete control of the work piece going through the blade. If you are not able to completely push a thin piece through the between the blade and fence, you will need to run those pieces on the outside portion of the blade using a stop jig to designate the thickness. Its been awhile since I have watched that video, but I believe I remember what Marc did in that. To the OP's question, the tendancy when doing a pass where the piece is wider than long is for it to wobble through the blade, resulting in a kickback. The trick is keeping the work piece solid against the fence without pinching the blade. A splitter or a riving knife is an absolute must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Perfectly safe with a Grrripper...assuming you have a riving knife or splitter. If not, use a CC sled like Kev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnorris1369 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Well got cuts made. I love love my grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr ipper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiback46 Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I think the confusion is that miter gauges are used ONLY for cross cuts and fences ONLY for rip cuts. I disagree, in most cases this is true, but in general its because the cross grain dimension is so much shorter than the long grain dimension. I think the "rule" is better stated as the miter fence works safest when cutting the short dimension, and the rip fence works best when cutting the long dimension (or if the piece is long than your table saw table -front to back). So with that in mind, when doing the final cross cut for the cutting board, I don't see a stability issue with using only the rip fence, since the piece is 10+inches long (dimension parallel to the cut) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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