bglenden Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Does anyone have any cute techniques to quickly move toggle clamps between jigs? I bought some Bessey auto-adjust clamps, and they are pricey enough that I'd prefer to move them around than buy lots of them. Obviously for jigs with T-track I could just put them on a carrier, but what about jigs where they are in a fixed position? Obviously this isn't a very profound problem, but since I was thinking about it I thought I'd ask if anyone has thought of any ingenious solution. (Kreg sells an attachment plate, but it's not that much cheaper than the clamp!). Cheers, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted May 14, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Screws? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Screws? Read my mind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 ==>Screws? That's what I use... #8 3/4" RH #2R: https://www.mcfeelys.com/Product.aspx?id=715564 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bglenden Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Screws is easy, but I was worried that the underlying jig material (sometimes MDF) would give up after 2-3 tries. I was thinking maybe short hanger bolts (1") except I'm not sure they exist, or maybe threaded inserts. Probably I'm over thinking it... Cheers, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 There is an article in the current fine woodworking. Worth a read. The main point of the article is the use of epoxy for the threads in the mdf for this purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 You may need to build those jigs out of something more substantial than MDF so that you can swap the clamps around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 +1 screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 I use square drive pan head screws, usually 1 1/4" long and mount the clamp to 3/4 by 4 3/4 wide strip of plywood which I use as a fence. The base of the jig is 3/4" ply and I added a 1" square cleat to the underside which gets clamped in the vise for quick use. I screw the back corners into the assembly table for heavy use. Jig with a piece of plywood as a second fence to stop a long part from pivoting. I just clamped a piece of poplar in place to show how you can work on a long edge. Jig open . Screws and cordless driver in the background. You can see the hundreds of holes where I have moved the clamps and fences around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Here is the cleat in the vise and a side view of the jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krtwood Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Maybe put the clamp on a dovetailed wedge and the corresponding dovetailed slot in the jigs? Then maybe just one screw to lock it in place instead of four. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Elegant solution, krtwood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bglenden Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Thanks all for the advice - I'll try the simplest solution (screws) first and wait for that to fail before trying anything more complicated (I do think the dovetail ideas is pretty cool and will use that if/when I need to try something else). Clearly my day job has trained me to look for overly complicated solutions! Cheers, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Thin super glue is also excellent for hardening threads. After you remove the screws, just squirt some in. Next time you use the holes, the threads will recut and be very durable. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 You can always move the clamp over just a little bit when the holes are stripped out if you don't have time to epoxy or super glue the hole. There are several holes on each clamp, so just use some different ones. Another trick is to dip a toothpick or bamboo skewer in regular yellow glue and jam it in the stripped hole. My approach to moving the Bessey toggle clamps is speed, which is why I use the square drive pan head screws . I keep them around for pocket hole joinery but they get more use in jigs. Sometimes I need to apply maximum pressure and that is when I fill every hole on the clamp with the longest screw the jig can handle. When I move a fence I run the sander over the fence and base to smooth out any bumps from screw holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krtwood Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 I've got some sanding blocks that are held together with a couple of drywall screws into plywood. Going on 8 years now, every time I've changed the paper those screws have gone in and out. Never did anything special to them. Granted it doesn't get as much force put on it as a toggle clamp, but sometimes I think we worry a little too much about screw holes wearing out. It's either going to strip out the first time or be fine for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Here is the cleat in the vise and a side view of the jig.image.jpg Steve,what is the thing in the background w/ the dowel rods used for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Gilbert Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 have you thought about dropping in a hood pin style of setup..might last a good time if it's done right.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Steve,what is the thing in the background w/ the dowel rods used for? It is a drying rack. 3 sections assemble on a base with casters and the dowels are arms that hold freshly sprayed parts so that the finish can dry. It also is handy for drying contact cement when we do laminate work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 How about machine screws into threaded inserts? So use wood screws until the hole gets messed up, drill it out for a threaded insert then use machine screws? Amazon sells inserts for 8-32 and 10-24 inserts for $5 for 100. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Pritchard Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Bolts and t-nuts is another option if the clamps are always going to be in the same place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 I use 1/4" carriage bolts and nuts to hole the clamps to the jig. Haven't worn one out yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.