Loren Faibisch Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Please let me know if you foresee problems using spar varnish on a wood surface for a bathroom vanity. The plan is to apply it to a wood bath counter under a vessel sink. We will be using it as a bath vanity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Just like a boat it all comes down to maintenance . Dry it off after any splashes or spills. Avoid keeping things on the counter that can trap water underneath them. You will probably have to sand and recoat sometime down the road . I always finish the all sides of a wood counter plus the bottom with as many coats as I put on the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 I'd be pretty hesitant to use a spar varnish for this as it's a fairly soft finish that will show every scratch and blemish. A good satin poly would be a better choice imo.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loren Faibisch Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Now I'm really confused! What is the best option if I want to have wood underneath my vessel sink? What will last? What application will show the beauty of the wood, but not be overly prone to a mess... What is a good finish for a table top that is heavily used? Wouldn't that kind of finish work okay for an application with a vessel sink? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 If the sink will be used, it's going to show wear / tear pretty quickly. If a soap dish is moved across the surface it will show the scratches. Varnish is actually pretty soft and not really meant for "working surfaces". It looks great and holds up pretty well to the outside elements but you rarely see this finish used for seats, countertops, etc. A polyurethane is much harder and will stand up to daily use much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 I did a wood vanity top under a China bowl sink (that's what my plumber friend calls it: an above vanity sink bowl). It gets wet several times a day and looks identical to when I finished it 4 years ago. I used Smith's CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant) to effectively waterproof the vanity top then applied Arm-R-Coat top finish varnish to get a satin sheen. If applied after the last coat of CPES dries (but is still curing), the CPES acts a bit like a cross-linker to the varnish giving it much better adhesion. Two coats of CPES is considered waterproof if you read the docs and this is in a boat environment where transoms get beat on by the sun and splashed with saltwater all day. If you use Smith's, do the coats outside and still wear a mask cuz it'll pickle your brain in a skinny minute. Also don't mix it in a plastic container or the bottom will dissolve out before you finish at least if you mix it in a Solo cup... keep those for thinning ice cubes with shellac thinner Yesterday I received a very friendly CPES from TotalBoat. Have not yet tried it, but the results should be the same. CPES isn't a final top coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Everyone above has valid opinions ! I was just talking about method and upkeep. The finishes I use are not sold to the general public so I am not currently familiar with what's available and how they hold up. A satin poly won't show scratches as easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loren Faibisch Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 Thank you everyone ! Looks like I am going to try the Smith's CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant) to effectively waterproof the vanity top then applied Arm-R-Coat top finish varnish). It sounds like it worked once, so it might work for me... I truly appreciate all the input you offered. A project like this can be intimidating...it's nice to find out that there are experts willing to share their knowledge and experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loren Faibisch Posted June 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 One more question... where would I go to purchase this Smith's clear penetrationg epoxy sealand and Arm-R topcoat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loren Faibisch Posted June 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 As it turns out CPES is really hard to find and buy if you are in Elk River MN. I called Smith's and they don't stock it locally. It is apparently a specialty item. Any ideas or products taht do the same thing but are more readily available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 Jamestown pretty much has exclusive distribution it seems. But they are a good place so go with that. TotalBoat is available in more places, has low VOCs, water cleanup... but try it if you like, I haven't yet. I only got the quart kit two days ago and will be using it to stabilize bark for veneer this weekend, not the same thing you need to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 For water-borne finish try General Finishes Exterior 450. It goes on like ArmRSeal but is more water resistant and is hard/durable. It's intended for outside furniture and I've used it on a couple of bathroom vanities. It is really good and holding up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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