Ian Gagnon Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 So, not sure what the proper terminology is or if this is even the right way to go about it, but I found it seems to work really well for me. I welcome everyone's input on this... I know there are no stupid questions, but this may be one of those "Duh. That's how it's supposed to be done." things. I've never been taught how to turn, so I'm going on instinct so to speak. Once I've gotten a rough shape established and I'm smoothing out my profile before sanding, I've taken to keeping my eye on the profile along the top of the piece so I get a good view of the profile. That's not to say I'm blindly jamming my tool into the work. Absolutely not as obviously this is a sure fire way to get a free ride to the ER, but once I'm in contact with the piece and following the profile, I'm being very mindful of what I'm seeing on that top profile. I've found that taking a sheet of white paper and placing it across the bedways on the backside of the lathe also helps to provide a nice clean backdrop from a visual standpoint for my final passes. Basically, from where my eyes are, the workpiece is directly between me and the paper. (I hope that makes sense/you can visualize what I'm saying.) Perhaps as I get better I won't feel a need for this 'crutch', but I feel like having that super clean white background allows me to really see the profile of the piece (both the shape itself and the negative space as well, which I feel in turning is very important.) Again, I have not been turning for very long at all, and am completely self-taught... except some YouTube videos by guys like Frank Howarth, Mike Waldt and others. What are your thoughts? I'm always open to learning something new or a better way to do things! Thanks, Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted June 6, 2014 Report Share Posted June 6, 2014 That's how I do it also, I've heard it called watching the horizon. I've never tried the paper back drop but than I have a white overhead shop door that would be the natural back drop unless if it was open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I do the same and often wondered if others do too. Maybe it's just one of those things you figure out for yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Not a bad idea...the contrast helps your eye pick up on the details of the project. Also, check out Captain Eddie Castelin. He has a lot of youtubes on about everything related to turning. He's entertaining too. Also, he'll teach you how to do many things on the cheap instead of spending big money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Same here, but when I'm turning a piece of white wood, I hang a dark background behind the piece. Otherwise, the off white wall works with any medium or darker wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 I also have a floor lamp on a large arm that I pull close when I'm hollowing something. Sometimes it just feels better to having it shining from overhead too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indy Cindy Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 So, not sure what the proper terminology is or if this is even the right way to go about it, but I found it seems to work really well for me. I welcome everyone's input on this... I know there are no stupid questions, but this may be one of those "Duh. That's how it's supposed to be done." things. I've never been taught how to turn, so I'm going on instinct so to speak. Once I've gotten a rough shape established and I'm smoothing out my profile before sanding, I've taken to keeping my eye on the profile along the top of the piece so I get a good view of the profile. That's not to say I'm blindly jamming my tool into the work. Absolutely not as obviously this is a sure fire way to get a free ride to the ER, but once I'm in contact with the piece and following the profile, I'm being very mindful of what I'm seeing on that top profile. I've found that taking a sheet of white paper and placing it across the bedways on the backside of the lathe also helps to provide a nice clean backdrop from a visual standpoint for my final passes. Basically, from where my eyes are, the workpiece is directly between me and the paper. (I hope that makes sense/you can visualize what I'm saying.) Perhaps as I get better I won't feel a need for this 'crutch', but I feel like having that super clean white background allows me to really see the profile of the piece (both the shape itself and the negative space as well, which I feel in turning is very important.) Again, I have not been turning for very long at all, and am completely self-taught... except some YouTube videos by guys like Frank Howarth, Mike Waldt and others. What are your thoughts? I'm always open to learning something new or a better way to do things! Thanks, Ian. Yes, that is how it is supposed to be done, i.e. looking at the top profile, but that is easier said than done. It takes proficiency with the tools to get to that point. Congratulations getting there! The other thing that really helps is excellent lighting. This doesn't mean the whole room has to be bright. Rather directional lighting on the piece will really help see the profile. Directional lighting also is an excellent aid in sanding so you can really see the grooves and sanding marks and know when they are gone. I went to a symposium and all of the pros had lights that magneted onto their lathes that were directed right at their work. They moved the angle often to better see whatever part they were working on. I purchased a similar light and the improvement in my work was immediate and huge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 AND Cindy.........as our eyes get past the [mumble mumble] year mark.....we need a little more light to see the details right?? The other day, I purchased a couple lights....you know the clamp anywhere with the aluminum shade lights? I bought a light bulb that looks like flood light in shape but when you look at it from the side, it's one of the energy efficient curly bulbs on the inside so it saves some pennies but it's cooler in the shop. I'm not that impressed with the amount of light it gives off though. I think I'll look for some type of LED bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 cindy reminded me of the light that I use I bought a magnetic base light with a led bulb that has a long adjustable neck that I can shine on where im working. it has come in handy for when im cutting out the inside of a box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indy Cindy Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Tim, True dat. Someone observed that a the work of many older people would have imperfections, sanding marks and such in the finished piece. It isn't that the people were doing sloppy work. Rather they couldn't see the problem areas, it looked good to them. Reading glasses and better lighting are important. I use safety glasses that have the reading area built into them so I can see better and protect my eyes at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 I am not as erm... experienced as you two and yet freely admit there is a learning curve regarding how one looks for such flaws. Knowing that you need to will protect you both for awhile to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Tim, True dat. Someone observed that a the work of many older people would have imperfections, sanding marks and such in the finished piece. It isn't that the people were doing sloppy work. Rather they couldn't see the problem areas, it looked good to them. Reading glasses and better lighting are important. I use safety glasses that have the reading area built into them so I can see better and protect my eyes at the same time. My uncle is a woodworker. He has built some really nice things but he's 86....and he has macular degeneration so he doesn't see as well as he did but he still works in his shop. A few days ago, he cut off the ends of three fingers on the table saw. I don't know how you hit the first one and keep going but he did. More light in his case would have helped but it was just a mistake that happens to younger people too. He built a walnut bureau...I guess it's called. You sit and fold out the 'cover' and it exposes cubby holes for bills and things. It is beautiful and finished beautifully BUT it was done about 14 years ago. He could see pretty well back then. Recently, he made a sort of pie safe looking piece for us and it has all sorts of imperfections and we know that it's just because he just can't see the sanding marks and the 1 degree off where the joint doesn't fit. I do admire him though. I hope I'm still making things and turning things at 86....just with plenty of light....AND safety glasses!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Gagnon Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Tim, I'm so sorry to hear about that! What a terrible accident. I agree with everyone about the lighting. I redid my shop lighting a few months ago and went to all 4' double T-5 tube fixtures. Makes a huge difference in the shop itself. At the lathe, I have an adjustable arm lamp that attaches at a series of holes along the mount behind my lathe so I can move it around. It is one of the larger articulated arm guys (think that little lamp in the Pixar logo... just 3' long when extended.) VERY helpful, especially for hollowing. I use a raking light when doing regular sanding and finishing, so moving the concept over to the lathe was very helpful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 I just received an email from Grizzly today where they put their magnetic base, LED light on sale for $20. Looks like an LED flashlight in an adjustable arm. May be good though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmcgarry Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 My uncle is a woodworker. He has built some really nice things but he's 86....and he has macular degeneration so he doesn't see as well as he did but he still works in his shop. A few days ago, he cut off the ends of three fingers on the table saw. I don't know how you hit the first one and keep going but he did. More light in his case would have helped but it was just a mistake that happens to younger people too. He built a walnut bureau...I guess it's called. You sit and fold out the 'cover' and it exposes cubby holes for bills and things. It is beautiful and finished beautifully BUT it was done about 14 years ago. He could see pretty well back then. Recently, he made a sort of pie safe looking piece for us and it has all sorts of imperfections and we know that it's just because he just can't see the sanding marks and the 1 degree off where the joint doesn't fit. I do admire him though. I hope I'm still making things and turning things at 86....just with plenty of light....AND safety glasses!! likewase sorry to hear about your uncle.... but trust me when i say you done feel it happening and unless you can react in superman speeds there's no stopping/reacting... heres a little write up on my injury... only for i had been reaching for the stop button or had just pressed it i would of lost a whole lot more!! like i said... milliseconds!!! in relation to lighting if you use flourescent lighting you actually need 2 of them in the same space to be able to see blades moving properly. something to do with the flicker rate matching that of moving blades so the blades can actually look like they're stationary. but back to your original point yes thats the way i do it too but also use a €20 led lamp that clips to anything with a LED bulb from IKEA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted June 15, 2014 Report Share Posted June 15, 2014 http://www.ptreeusa.com/maglites.htm This is the one I bought it was pricy but I can mount it anywhere on the machine and with the small head on it I can move it right up to my turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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