pklages Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 I have some black walnut boards that have been stored in a barn for about 15 years. They are very dirty and dusty. I think i need to clean them somehow before I run them through my planer. Should I just wash them off, let them dry off completely and then plan them? Or should I wash them and then sand them a little to make sure there are nothing on them that will mess up my planer blades. Any suggests? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Drum sander is the best option. ROS with good collection a distant second. If you have an old beater jack plane you could take a few swipes with that after you sand with the ROS. Hosing them off would be a last resort since soaking lumber is never a good thing, and while you'll get the bulk of the filth off, you'll also drive that dirt deep into the pores so you'll still have to deal with it at some point. Drum sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 ==>very dirty and dusty Dust is a non-issue. What to do depends on your definition of 'very dirty'. If it's just stained (as in atmospheric pollution/tar/bat guano/etc from being stored in the barn's rafters), no problem. However, if it's dirt-dirt (as in loose soil, sand, silicate, from being stored on the bare earth and pooped-on by whatever lives in the barn), then don't even bring the lumber into your shop until you get most of it off... Get yourself a stiff wire brush (the kind painting contractors use to strip loose paint) and go over the surface -- this will loosen 'caked-in' dirt. If you've got a drum sander, then Eric's suggestion is spot-on. If not, you can take an RoS to the surface or run it through your planer (some folks keep a separate set of 'junk knives' for just such an occasion). Eric's right, keep water away from the sticks. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 40 grit belt sander. You can even get a head start on identifying and rectifying any warps or wobbles before you head to the machines. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Wire brush, Scotch Brite pads, sanders, compressed air, or a combination of these. BUT not water! You could wipe them down with alcohol or mineral spirits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 ==>40 grit belt sander Ahhhhh, the dreaded belt sander... I gave mine away (along with 30 belts) after years of non use... Last year, I started building lots of bent-laminate projects where the belt sander can help clean-up the long-edge to minimize wear on jointer knives... Decided to buy a replacement -- only to find it's now $457 -- D'Oh... Hate when that happens... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiback46 Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 If you do use a sander of any kind make sure to brush it well with a stiff bristled brush (especially if its open grained). I use a belt sander on some oak I got, and the grit from the sander nicked my planer blades. Now I primarily use a beat up jack plane with a heavily cambered iron. Much cleaner, and quieter. I only sharpen the blade about once a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerrySats Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Wire brush, Scotch Brite pads, sanders, compressed air, or a combination of these. BUT not water! You could wipe them down with alcohol or mineral spirits. Wire brush is my method. It cleans all the grim and grit off pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Mosher Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 We have a Makita 9741 Wheel Sander with a wire brush wheel which would work perfectly but it ain't cheap! I don't think a power washer would be out of the question but you would have to be careful. You're not going to raise the moisture content by washing the wood. I would also check with a probe for any metal, I think that would be worse than the dirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Or you can do what I do and don't mess with dirty ass boards. Plenty of clean ones out there to pick from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Or you can do what I do and don't mess with dirty ass boards. Plenty of clean ones out there to pick from. I've been pondering what type of wood I was going to use to build a new work bench. Easiest, cheapest way out would be use SYP but didn't want to use construction grade. Our company is in an old wood frame, 2 1/2 story bldg. that was built about 80 years ago and was built using 2x10's & 12's that apparently came from another building as there some nail holes in them. I got to thinking about some of the boards I had seen on the unused 3rd floor. I found several 2x12's that are about 18' long and dusty as hell. I dusted one off and don't see a knot anywhere. You can bet these "dirty ass" boards will be used 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 I use a lot of barn wood, and the first time I ran some through my planer, I had to buy new blades! I now use an old bar b que grate cleaning wire brush, and scrub like hell, then I do it again then blow it clean with my compressor. Haven't needed new blades for quite awhile. But a dry cleaning is essential! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted June 11, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Rolling a ball magnet over a recycled board is a good idea. Handy thing to have, ball magnet. It will find a nail in a hardwood floor, behind drywall and even filled micro pins in millwork. I get mine from K& J Magnetics. 1/2" or 5/8 works pretty good. I got a 3/4" and a 1" one and found out that too much is possible ! Walked by the truck with it in my pocket and " THUNK" I was stuck to the truck ! A few minutes later I walked by the tablesaw, leaned over to pick something up and " THUNK" I was stuck to the saw, thankfully if wasn't running. Those big ones stay stuck to the side of a metal cabinet unless I am going to an old house job, then they are handy finding nails under thick plaster. I keep a tube with several 1/2" ball magnets to mark stud locations or find nails in woodwork that needs to be cut or carefully removed. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerrySats Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Rolling a ball magnet over a recycled board is a good idea. Handy thing to have, ball magnet. It will find a nail in a hardwood floor, behind drywall and even filled micro pins in millwork. I get mine from K& J Magnetics. 1/2" or 5/8 works pretty good. I got a 3/4" and a 1" one and found out that too much is possible ! Walked by the truck with it in my pocket and " THUNK" I was stuck to the truck ! A few minutes later I walked by the tablesaw, leaned over to pick something up and " THUNK" I was stuck to the saw, thankfully if wasn't running. Those big ones stay stuck to the side of a metal cabinet unless I am going to an old house job, then they are handy finding nails under thick plaster. I keep a tube with several 1/2" ball magnets to mark stud locations or find nails in woodwork that needs to be cut or carefully removed. Do you use the balls because their easy to pull off the wall ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 CO2 blaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Do you use the balls because their easy to pull off the wall ?[/quote You can roll it over horizontal surfaces. I hold it in the crook of a finger and slide it up and down the wall. The magnet will hang where the nail or screw is. The round surface barely marks the paint on the wall. I have a few big flat magnets and they drag and scuff the paint.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Rolling a ball magnet over a recycled board is a good idea. Handy thing to have, ball magnet. It will find a nail in a hardwood floor, behind drywall and even filled micro pins in millwork.I get mine from K& J Magnetics. 1/2" or 5/8 works pretty good. I got a 3/4" and a 1" one and found out that too much is possible ! Walked by the truck with it in my pocket and " THUNK" I was stuck to the truck ! A few minutes later I walked by the tablesaw, leaned over to pick something up and " THUNK" I was stuck to the saw, thankfully if wasn't running. Those big ones stay stuck to the side of a metal cabinet unless I am going to an old house job, then they are handy finding nails under thick plaster.I keep a tube with several 1/2" ball magnets to mark stud locations or find nails in woodwork that needs to be cut or carefully removed.That would be a bitch to have a couple of the 1" in your front pocket and then "back up" to your ts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Strong magnets are no toys. A co-worker of mine was injured while screwing around with a pair of magnets he was using to make a machine jig. Placed one above and below his forarm to show how they were strong enough to clamp in place thru his arm. Things went south when he moved and the magnets rapidly attracted each other around the side of his arm and tore out a 1" x 3" chunk of meat and hide... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Steve, I went to their web site. They show a 2" round magnet and prior to purchasing, you have to read their info sheet and agree to their terms and conditions. This followed by "THESE ARE DANGEROUS". I guess if you had a couple dozen 2" ones in one spot, you could offset the earth's rotation I'm gonna believe them and order the 1/2" like you suggest. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 I have a 3/4" thick x 2" magnet and it is kinda scary. You have to sit it on a piece of plywood and then carefully sit that on the tablesaw , then carefully slide it off onto the cast iron. It takes a lot of force to move it. It will try to jump out of your hand or pinch your fingers between it and any steel/ iron. These magnets can break or shatter into razor sharp pieces, especially the thin cheap ones! Handle them carefully! K&J magnetics has some great info available and a newsletter you can sign up for. The most recent one showed how a set of spinning magnets can repel Aluminum ! The idea is you could use it to sort aluminum parts from other trash. They have technical data of how much pull force you get as the distance increases. I used this to get the right size magnet to put inside a cabinet door 1/8" under the wood. I cut a Domino slot from the edge of the plywood, glued the magnet into the pocket, then banded the edges with 1/8" solid wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pklages Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Thanks for all the great advise. I think I will be spending some time with a wire brush and my old stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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