Router plane options


Bill Tarbell

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I'm looking toward picking up a router plane.  While i can afford the high end models, i'd still prefer to get the most value for the least amount of money.  

 

Options i've found:

  • Stanley / millers falls / record - ebay $25-$50 (linklink)
  • Preston - ebay $200-$300 (link)
  • Woodstock - amazon $45 (link)
  • Veritas - $150 (link)
  • Lie nielsen - $140 (link)
  • Build my own  $10-$25 (link, link)

 

I think i'm leaning toward LV/LN or building one.  I'd like to have an accurate depth stop and a convenient/quick depth adjustment.  If i build one then i'll likely buy a pre-cut blade rather than use an allen.  My concerns with building one are keeping the blade on the same plane as the sole (how much does this matter?) and the incorporation of an adjustable and optional fence (unsure how often i'd even use it).

 

Any thoughts, advice, or other options are welcome. :)

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I think the Woodstock is a small router plane, like the Stanley #271. If you go down the vintage route, the Stanley/Record 71/071 with open throat have a T shaped 'filler' which closes the throat - very useful. Otherwise the problem is finding one with all the bits - three cutters, two 1/2" of which one spear headed, and a 1/4" cutter, plus the lateral fence. That last one is almost always missing.

 

I don't quite understand what you mean by same plane for the blade - the back of the blade is not at 90° to the vertical shaft. It has a roughly 15° angle to the horizontal (the router sole plane).

 

You're $25-$50 budget for a vintage seems a little optimistic to me, but I only have experience of the UK ebay market.

 

Don't forget the Preston router plane, if you can find one. It works open/closed throat simply by rotating the blade 180°. Very clever, very simple.

 

Good hunting (or building)

 

John

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There are lots of Stanleys on eBay, but as John mentioned they are usually missing something.  I eventually settled on the Veritas since it had so many accessories available, like the various width blades and inlay cutterhead.  For maximum value you're still best off watching eBay for a long time waiting for a deal to pounce on if you're not in a big hurry and you'd rather save some money.  I've not had mine too long but it has been fun to use. 

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Thanks for the info.  I wasn't aware of the Preston plane.  A quick check on ebay seems to set it around 200-300$.  I'm guessing the price is inflated due to some collector's status rather than a performance benefit.  I do like the reversible design of it.. it seems that most other castings would require a deep setting in order to allow the blade to clear the back wall that they typically have.

 

Oh.. i didn't realize that they were at a 15 degree angle.  I assumed that they were at a 90 with a slight relief.  If the blades are ground that steep then i don't think i'd really need to worry too much so long as i was within a few degrees and it was securely pinned to the back wall.  Though, looking at pictures blades on google images it appears that at least some are at a 90.  It's hard to tell, but the veritas brand appear to be at a 90. here's an image of one standing up: 

05p3801s1a.jpg

 

 

It's likely an impractical fear, but i worry that the vintage models would have too much play in the threads from being so old.  Has anyone done much comparison testing between the vintage models and the modern?

 

Most of the auctions i've seen only contain one blade and do not have the fence. I assume i'd still start the dado/groove with the tablesaw or power router prior to using the plane, so not having the plane fence wouldn't be a big deal.  I'll likely just be using the plane as a cleanup tool rather than a true routing device, but i suppose i could be overlooking some useful situation for the fence.

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I think the LV or LN would be the best choice because of the build quality and design of the depth stop.  I have an LV because a lot of folks recommended it but I think the LN would be good as well.  To me, the LN is the clear winner in the small router plane category - especially with the addition of the depth stop for it.

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The LV are at a non-90° too.  I've actually not used the fence on mine yet, and I imagine the fence would be more useful for the inlay cutter than actual router use.  You don't use the router plane to route a groove so much as clean one up you made with saw and chisels, table saw, power router, etc.  For making a groove or dado from scratch via hand plane you want a plow or combination plane.  If you want one of those, you can save a great deal of money keeping an eye out on eBay.  I got a Sargent-made Craftsman-branded combination plane with all accessories for ~$100.  The mint complete Stanleys go for $400 or so, so I'd go off-brand or Veritas for a plow.  LN has a Miller's patent style plow in the works but I've not seen anything about it online since it was announced. 

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I looked for a long time on ebay for a router plane, and as others said, the ones in a reasonable price range had stuff missing.  The complete models were often as much if not more than a new Veritas.  I ended up getting the Veritas, and have been very happy with it, and gets use on just about every project.

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I just got the big LV Router Plane, the fence, various cutters, and the inlay head.  I have yet to explore the whole potential of it, but have used it on several project so far.  With shipping the whole package set me back just over $250.  For me and the work I do this has already proven to be a solid investment.  As far as I am concerned, LV are a solid product and value.

 

miw!

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Don't forget the Preston router plane, if you can find one. It works open/closed throat simply by rotating the blade 180°. Very clever, very simple.

 

John

 

The Veritas router plane can do that, as well. Using the blade 'outboard' like that helps when the body would get in the way (like a chisel plane).

 

The blades for the router plane also work for the hinge mortise plane, which might give other possibilities.

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I'm looking toward picking up a router plane.  While i can afford the high end models, i'd still prefer to get the most value for the least amount of money.  

 

Options i've found:

  • Stanley / millers falls / record - ebay $25-$50 (linklink)
  • Preston - ebay $200-$300 (link)
  • Woodstock - amazon $45 (link)
  • Veritas - $150 (link)
  • Lie nielsen - $140 (link)
  • Build my own  $10-$25 (link, link)

 

I think i'm leaning toward LV/LN or building one.  I'd like to have an accurate depth stop and a convenient/quick depth adjustment.  If i build one then i'll likely buy a pre-cut blade rather than use an allen.  My concerns with building one are keeping the blade on the same plane as the sole (how much does this matter?) and the incorporation of an adjustable and optional fence (unsure how often i'd even use it).

 

Any thoughts, advice, or other options are welcome. :)

 

Although you have linked to my website as a build-your-own possibility, unless you are confident of the detail work, I would advise you to purchase one instead. The details are important, for example, the sole of the blade must be perfectly parallel with the sole of the plane to work correctly. 

 

If you can afford it, get the LV Large Router plane. It is the best on the market. The LN is good as well, but does not have the range of blade sizes and does not have as good a fence. The LV has a bunch of other extras. 

 

Avoid a small router plane (such as the #271 size). I hardly use this size, even for hinge mortices.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

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Avoid a small router plane (such as the #271 size). I hardly use this size, even for hinge mortices.

 

It's funny that you say that, Derek.  The latest article in FWW gives us the old, "you have to have two of 'em" when they recommend having BOTH a large and small router plane.  :o

 

I myself have had and used a small router plane for years but have found it insubstantial for tenon work.

 

miw

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