Table Saw Survey

[Shane Jimerfield]

I am looking to upgrade my table saw. I've had a Rigid contractor saw for about 15 yrs now. It served me well, mostly, but I'm tired of constantly adjusting it to keep it square. And those little mice, those poor little mice, are just tired of me beating them to run faster and harder. And it makes me feel bad too when one of them goes down and I have to get the defibrillator.

 

I build all kinds of stuff (furniture, toys, doors, etc...), and use all kinds of wood (soft, hard, ply, etc...). I make all kinds of cuts: long rips, miters, dados, tenons... I use jigs, and sleds.

 

I have plenty of space and 220, single phase power.

 

I was looking at a nicely reconditioned PM 65 and just did not feel the love. He didn't replace the bearings...silly man. And he kind of wanted too much for it.

 

I want to do a bit of a survey to see what all-ya-all think on the topic. Let me know what saw you think is best, and up to 5 reasons why. Also, tell me if you have the saw.

 

Criteria: 

motor: 1.75 - 3 HP (let's keep it below 30 amps)

price: $1,200 - $2,000

 

Thanks in advance for your input.

[..Kev]

Well, I have a sneaky suspicion your about to get a bunch of different answers for a bunch of different reasons.

 

So, this would just be my opinion..

 

110 power - Grizzly 0715 - 900 bucks - 2HP - http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series/G0715P

 

220 power - Grizzly 0690 - 1500 bucks - 3HP - http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0690

 

Both have gotten decent review on this site and others.

[Dan S]

 

Criteria: 

motor: 1.75 - 3 HP (let's keep it below 30 amps)

price: $1,200 - $2,000

 

1. With a budget of  $1200- $2000 I'd recommend you go strait to a 3hp cabinet saw, that way your second saw will most likely be your last one. 

2. I'd go with a new saw as Grizzly, General International, Steel City, & Laguna all make saw in that price range.

3. don't get sucked into the old iron is always better black hole. Some old iron was definitely better when it was new, but after a few decades of use it might not be as good as it once was. If you go old make sure you check all the important stuff.

4. don't get swayed by the brand name. It blows my mind how much people will pay for ancient clapped out Powermatic stuff, just because it says Powermatic.

[knotscott]

I think the Griz G1023RL or G0690 are going to be tough to beat in the $1400-$1500 range.   

 

 

[wtnhighlander]

No first-hand experience with Grizzly, but all I read says they are the ones to beat for the price.

[KenMasco]

I have the Grizzly 690 and love it.  I used a well tuned contractor saw for 15 years.  Doubt I'll ever need to replace the 690.

[tim0625]

I think the Griz G1023RL or G0690 are going to be tough to beat in the $1400-$1500 range.   

 

 

+1 I love my 1023RLWX...its $1395 right now and if you get a Grizzly catalog, you can get an additional discount using the code on the back...if I remember right it's 10%???

[CessnaPilotBarry]

Two and a half years ago, I swapped a 3HP 1999 General 650 (NOT International, made in Canada) for a SawStop ICS after personally using several examples of the SS.   

 

My current saw is my fourth personal saw in ~ 20 years, and I've personally used examples of every popular saw.   I've made several trips to Grizzly showrooms, touched all their machines, and have local dealers for PM, Delta, and General.  I would not buy a saw today without a riving knife or overarm guard, and would consider upping the budget to include SS technology if at all possible.  As you've noticed, the table saw is the centerpiece of most shops, so it makes sense to get exactly what you want to meet your personal needs.

 

My main reason for moving to a newer saw from a perfectly good, well-regarded old saw, was that I wanted a true riving knife, and spending $900 + 8-12 hours to upgrade the General didn't make sense.  I kept my Excalibur overarm guard from the old saw, as splitter mounted guards are a waste of time.  Without the brake, I think SawStop builds a fantastic saw, with the brake and it's 10+ year track record, I think it's even better. 

 

Depending on your locality, good used saws may cost more than they should.  Here in CT, my General sold for $1800 in two days on Craigslist, to the first responder.  I think that's ridiculous, but I happily counted the bills...  ;^)

[Don Z.]

Only because you asked... and with the understanding that there are many answers just as valid:

 

If you can find a used Inca 2200, grab it.

 

1.  Cast iron tables (2100 had aluminum, which was great for weight, but difficult if you wanted to use a magnet) that are flat.

 

2.  12 inch blade.

 

3.  High quality.

 

4.  Real riving knife.  You may even be able to find a SUVA guard.

 

5.  Great fence system.

[rodger.]

I currently own and use daily a ridgid ts3650. I have had it for 10 years, and it is a fantastic saw. It has done everything I have asked of it.

I will be upgrading soon. I have finalized my choice to the sawstop and powermatic. I really would like a riving knife, a 4" dust port, and over arm dust collection. I also like the jump up in HP. Grizzly is good, but expensive to ship to canada. I also looked in general, but they are close enough in price for me to go sawstop or powermatic.

[knotscott]

I currently own and use daily a ridgid ts3650. I have had it for 10 years, and it is a fantastic saw. It has done everything I have asked of it.

I will be upgrading soon. I have finalized my choice to the sawstop and powermatic. I really would like a riving knife, a 4" dust port, and over arm dust collection. I also like the jump up in HP. Grizzly is good, but expensive to ship to canada. I also looked in general, but they are close enough in price for me to go sawstop or powermatic.

 

Just my 2 cents....both the PM and the Saw Stop represent top shelf saws.  Both are made in Asia, neither is significantly better than the other that I know of, but one has a the ability to prevent a life changing mishap.   If you're going to make a change from your current saw, I wouldn't consider less than 3hp or there's just not enough actual upgrade to make it worth swapping out saws for IMHO.    If I was even considering a PM2000, I'd opt for the PCS 3hp instead.  

[rodger.]

Just my 2 cents....both the PM and the Saw Stop represent top shelf saws. Both are made in Asia, neither is significantly better than the other that I know of, but one has a the ability to prevent a life changing mishap. If you're going to make a change from your current saw, I wouldn't consider less than 3hp or there's just not enough actual upgrade to make it worth swapping out saws for IMHO. If I was even considering a PM2000, I'd opt for the PCS 3hp instead.

As always, your knowledge of table saws is unmatched! Thanks for the advice.

[Bill Tarbell]

If you go for the sawstop then you'll want to keep a mindful eye on the moisture content of what you're cutting.  If you're cutting any cheap framing lumber from a boxstore or pressure treated lumber then you'll likely want to turn on the bypass mode.  Likewise, it can trigger if you hit a nail/staple that's also contacting the table.  While the safety feature of having the stop for typical cutting is great, it may become frustrating if you have a couple misfires since you'll have to replace your blade and the brake.

 

I think the sawstop system is truly fantastic, but you also need to mentally prepare yourself for the occasional 100-200$ misfire mistakes.  I'd spend a good bit of time googling 'sawstop misfire' to educate yourself on things that can inadvertently trigger the stop mechanism.  If you can avoid any misfires then you'll be both happy and safe

[trz]

So what's the difference between the 1023 and the 0690?

[knotscott]

So what's the difference between the 1023 and the 0690?

 

The arbor of the new G1023RL travels vertically straight up and down as opposed to up and down in an arc, has a poly-v belt drive system vs the triple belt drive of the G0690, plus it has a blade shroud for better DC.  The G1023RL has dovetail ways on the vertical height mechanism.  The G0690 has a 30" stock rip capacity, the G1023RL has 26", but it's really easy to slide the front rail to the right to gain more capacity with either saw.  THe G0690 has an Asian made Leeson motor, the G1023RL has generic Asian motor.  The G0690 is made in China, the G1023RL is made in Taiwan.  The G1023RL has the Shop Fox Classic "Biese clone" fence....the G0690 has a different Biese clone.  

[Dan S]

The arbor of the new G1023RL travels vertically straight up and down as opposed to up and down in an arc, has a poly-v belt drive system vs the triple belt drive of the G0690, plus it has a blade shroud for better DC.

From what I have read, G1023 DC is worse unless you have a system that can create a lot of suction. Apparently the hose that goes to the shroud is small, and really hinders the DC.

[tim0625]

I have a 1023RLWX.  The DC is so so.  It does ok pulling the dust from the cut and evacuates it to the dust port but some dust gets sidetracked in the corners of the cabinet. It's not a big deal to me though...I just periodically remove the throat plate, turn on the DC, and spray air around the inside.  It clears everything from the cabinet's inside. Overall, I'm very pleased with the saw.  The 690 may be better at DCing.  Some of the guys here have them.  Maybe they will chime in.