Doomwolf Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hi all. I am finishing a mirror frame I made during a course at the local college. I'm finishing it with a Minwax 232 Red Chestnut (due in part to the fact that I got a can for free). After wiping on a coat I noticed I failed to properly sand one of the joints, so there is still some glue that is keeping the finish from taking. Can I brush some shellac over this as a sealer and stain over that, or do I need to break out the sand paper? NB-Wood is pine, and the problem area is roughly 1" by 2" http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Painting-Supplies/Stains-Preservatives/Interior/Oil-Base/236mL-Red-Chestnut-Alkyd-Wood-Stain/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/No-48/Ntk-All_EN/R-I1872049?Ns=P_Price_13760&Ntt=minwax&Num=0 Second part of the questions - some of the pine is very resinous or something, as it won't take the stain. While it looks kind of cool, it's only on one side so I'd like to find away to get around that. Would a couple of coats of shellac probably allow finish to stick there as well? I can upload pictures later if it helps, need my camera back first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Shellac is sometimes used to help control blotchiness when staining woods like pine. Coating over a stain probably won't help much, unless you switch to a gel stain and use it as a glaze. Apply shellac, let it dry. Apply gel stain, heavily. Wait 5 - 15 minuts and wipe off the excess. recoat as needed to achieve the desired color. Won't show the grain as clearly as stain on bare wood, but might help salvage your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Sand or use a cabinet scraper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomwolf Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 I was kind of afraid sanding would be the answer. I hate it so.... Also, Happy Canada Day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 A well sharpened cabinet scraper is an awesome tool. Makes quick work of glue spots like yours . It does take some practice to be able to form the hook but I usually sharpen all 4 edges on several card scrapers when I am set up so there is a fresh sharp edge when you need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomwolf Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Mine isn't sharpened and I haven't figured out how yet. When I do all four edges are getting hooked to an inch of their lives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Mosher Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 A good inspection light at a low raking angle will help to see defects so you don't have to re-sand so much. With water based dye stain I put a very thin stain on of the same color I am going to use right before my final sanding. It works like a guide coat and makes sure I get everything sanded. I wouldn't try that with minwax stain though, it will clog your sandpaper. As posted above a card scraper is the best option. Find someone to show you how to sharpen and use it and you will never look back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomwolf Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Speaking of defects, how do you know for sure that all the glue is sanded off? Is there some sort of trick that can be resorted to short of witchcraft and entrail reading? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Mosher Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Speaking of defects, how do you know for sure that all the glue is sanded off? Is there some sort of trick that can be resorted to short of witchcraft and entrail reading? Just wetting the wood down with a solvent like alcohol or mineral spirits will show where the glue is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Sorry to bear bad news, but you do need to cut the surface back (sand, scrape, etc. I'll often have good luck sculpting the glue out of a joint with a chisel) and re-stain. Subsequent coats of stain will stick fine, albeit it'll dry slowly and obscure the grain. At a certain point, it'll look as if it's been painted. Shellac won't help you at this point. The time for shellac is before you apply pigment. The first coat hits the dry wood and evens out patches that are particularly thirsty. Then when you come at it with color, the entire board a.) takes in less pigment overall and b.) takes pigment evenly across the board. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomwolf Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Shellac won't help you at this point. The time for shellac is before you apply pigment. The first coat hits the dry wood and evens out patches that are particularly thirsty. Then when you come at it with color, the entire board a.) takes in less pigment overall and b.) takes pigment evenly across the board. That is a very strait forward description that I can remember. Thank you. Unrelated, but I've taken a second course at the same college and today we brought our (eastern white pine) blanket boxes home. I know a couple of my boards are particularly resinous (because they were a bitch to dovetail), so once I am done with my grandfather's random orbit sander I'll be apply a couple coats of clear shellac, followed by.....not sure. I'm sure I'll think of something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bombarde16 Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 The blond Scandinavian look is popular for a reason: Pine looks great with a simple, clear finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomwolf Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 I still want to put something durable on it, it picked up dents just getting moved in and out of the car/going up the stairs. How well does polyurethane do over your standard Bullseye shellac? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Poly does fine over shellac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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