jimmyhopps Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 I'm wanting to use the Charles Neil Blotch control that i've already purchased to help even out different wood colors in my table. Its a birdseye and figured maple table but all the boards are quite different and I think the blotch will help even it out (Confirmation of this??). I originally purchased the Blotch Control to prevent the birdseye from popping, given my wife didn't want to see it and the fact that several of the boards are noticeably softer than the others. Most of the video on the blotch product has folks flooding/wiping on the dye instead of spraying it on - i intend to spray given the size of the table. Is the Blotch product even worth it when spraying for my purposes? I suspect so but would love confirmation?? Also, i recently watched Rick Mosher's post about varying wetness of the dye being sprayed on. Would you all recommend a wet or light coat for my purposes, over the Blotch product? I am assuming wet given it is closer to the wipe on method. If using a dryer spray of dye, can someone confirm that using the Blotch control is still ok? I think the blotch has to soften in the water/alcohol to take the dye, and maybe it would not get a chance to do that if only spraying a dry coat of dye on it. maybe i'm just worrying. thanks all. And thank Rick for the great video (although it prompted a lot of questions from me!). I know I know - test my samples! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Instead of the usual overly-complete response, I think I'll just channel Don for the next few weeks and see how it goes... ==>Blotch product even worth it when spraying for my purposes? Yes ==>I am assuming wet given it is closer to the wipe on method. Yes ==>If using a dryer spray of dye, can someone confirm that using the Blotch control is still ok? Yes ==>I think the blotch has to soften in the water/alcohol to take the dye, and maybe it would not get a chance to do that if only spraying a dry coat of dye on it No #1ct with Transtint and/or SolarLux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyhopps Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Thanks HHH. but what is the last reference? #1ct with Transtint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 ==>#1ct with Transtint? Told you, I'm channeling Don... No explanations given to folks lacking 25 years of experience... OK, I can't help myself... I'll expand my answer... --- Don channeling off CN's BC is a diluted WB T/C. You want to isolate this from the top-coat to avoid nasty adhesion issues. You mix yourself a #1ct of Super Blonde and add transtint to get yourself a toner. Since your shooting it over CN's BC, you get an even tone without much blotching. The shellac layer then acts as a binder for your topcoat. So you can now shoot whatever you want as a top-coat and not worry about adhesion issues with CN's BC. Simple... -- Don channeling on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyhopps Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Thanks. do i need the shellac even if using Enduro Var? where is the tip jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 ==>do i need the shellac even if using Enduro Var? If you're shooting everything, then no... However, it's not a bad practice... You can sometimes get funky interactions and shellac is the cure-all... But the real reason... Shoot a coat or two of shellac over the color layer to put some solids between the color layer and the topcoat... Why? Sand-through... Think about it... Yea, I may need a tip-jar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 ==>#1ct with Transtint? Told you, I'm channeling Don... No explanations given to folks lacking 25 years of experience... You neglected to use a minimum of 5 industry-insider acronyms; minimum 10 if the OP stated he's a n00b (not this OP) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Neil Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 First off, the Blotch control is NOT a top coat finish , it does utilize some similar componets but there is no need to use shellac, adhesion is not an issue. Second: you do not want to spray it unless your just using that as a transfer means, you Have to wipe it. Spraying lays down an even coating, and does not allow the softer areas to absorb more , which is needed to control the blotch. The objective of the game is to get more into the softer grain than the harder grain to equilize the finish . Here is a Blog I wrote on it may be a good Idea to give it a read... http://intheworkshop.wordpress.com/2012/04/17/applying-dyes-stains-over-my-blotch-control-prestain/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 ==>^^ Hay, that's good to know right from the horse's mouth... Thanks. The idea that BC is a thinned WB T/C is widely held... There was a lengthy thread on exactly what's in BC and how to use it over on LumberJocks. The guy/gal posting attended one of your finishing courses... You may want to take a gander to help clarify. Same goes for application: the thread recommended shooting it for large projects, then wiping it back... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Neil Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 HHH, Typically most of your pre stains ARE just thinned topcoats, and usually they dont work, Ours is anything but, As to the LJ thread, Its hard to say , but if the person actually attended my class, then they didnt pay very close attention, because the 2 points addressed are the total opposit of what we teach.. Now sprayin it on and then wiping it back with a pad wet with the product , does work for faster appliation, but you have to wipe it so the soft grains can absorb, that s also why we do 2 coats with a light scuff sand in between, so to remove any raised grain . But to just spray it and leave it , does not work , you also want to wipe it back after a min or so to remove any excess, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyhopps Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Yep, I plan to apply the BC by the wipe method recommended, then spray everything else. CHarles, if you could confirm that the spray dye to follow the BC should be fairly wet (vs a dryer coat that some may use if not BC were used) that would be great? any meaningful difference if water based vs solvent (transtint being used). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Neil Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 fairly wet yes, but go easy , I like to spray it at a slightly higer pressure and less fluid, and go one direction then opposite , basically a cross hatch pattern and stay back a little from the surface. Its more of a misting it on inorder to be sure its nice and even , dont get too wet, remember its water and water has surface tension, so your better with several light coats then one heavy wet coat , unless your wiping it back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.