rodger. Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Lots of people simply sand, prime, and paint their kirchen cabinets with latex paint. I know this is not a great idea, so what are the alternatives? Is there a specialized paint for this task? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakjak220 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I did the sand, prime, paint on my kitchen cabinets... Its been a year and they've held up really well so far. I just used some high quality Sherwin Williams primer and paint and sprayed it on with an airless... It works pretty good if u put in the prep time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerrySats Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 I use ML Campbell Aqualente it's a water borne paint , goes on real nice and its pretty tough stuff . My local dealer color matches anything I need and gives me samples to show clients . A gallon usually runs me around $51 . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 ==>what are the alternatives? Shooting tinted WB poly works well... One local cabinet maker tints WB conversion varnish for a very durable coating -- the cabinets turn-out looking like a fine custom auto spray job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 ==>tinted WB or tinted lacquer look really nice. Yea, should have mentioned that one as well... ==>But if your substrate is not perfect there is nowhere to hide.... Vinyl sealers have enough body to hide much evil... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 +1 to all of the above ! Dark and rich colors are best using tint in a clear base. Thin coats to build a solid color. There is a sanding sealer for the clear Agualente and a primer for the light colors of the paint version. These are much easier to sand between coats than the finish is. Careful surface prep is key ! Flaws you will never see doing clear finishes will be glaring at you & need filling and sanding before the next coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 ==>Flaws you will never see doing clear finishes will be glaring at you Ohhhh, yea... I was over at Frank's Cabinet shop, and he had just completed the finish on the nicest set of cabinets I'd ever seen. They were executed entirely in solid Walnut with hand-cut dovetailing throughout. He used WB conversion varnish tinted to match... wait for it... the client's Ferrari... I could tell you how much he charged, but then I'd have to kill you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 ==>walnut tree that gave its life so it could be painted the color of a Ferrari.... I expressed that felling at the time... Then I was told the price... and came to fully realize why the customer is always right... Let's just say you could purchase a small fleet of Ferraris for the cost of one Walnut kitchen... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 I use ML Campbell Aqualente it's a water borne paint , goes on real nice and its pretty tough stuff . My local dealer color matches anything I need and gives me samples to show clients . A gallon usually runs me around $51 . I'm on the website, but I don't see anything listed as "paint". The closest I can find is a pigmented white base (pre or post cat). Is this what u use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Yep, the pre cat is what I use. Read the expiration date on the cans closely ! It has a short shelf life. The post cat you add the catalyst before you spray. Both are only sold to professionals in my area . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Yep, the pre cat is what I use. Read the expiration date on the cans closely ! It has a short shelf life. The post cat you add the catalyst before you spray. Both are only sold to professionals in my area . thanks steve. So if i can get it, do i just spray o n2 or 3 coats as i would paint, and then be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Get the primer too, sand between coats lightly. If you are using a color other than light white varieties getting the primer tinted is a good idea. The primer dries hard enough for sanding faster than the finish does. Primer also sands much easier than the finish coats do. Prime, sand, fill all the flaws you didn't see (I use water based Famowood) sand the fill and lightly prime again. I use a grey abrasive pad after this step then a couple of top coats. Pay attention to edges and try to avoid getting spots too wet. Wet spots that have a heavy double coat dry slower and can smudge when sanded too soon. You can also completely fill the grain and end up with a very smooth spot surrounded by hints of wood grain. Raised panel doors need for the panel to be able to move ! Caulking or too much finish will attach the panel to the frame, when it does move then something ends up cracking. So don't seal up the crack between the panel and the frame. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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