Titebond 3 on finished surface


coryshewchuk

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Hello!

 

I've been trying to find an answer to this all day... I have some dewaxed shellac that dripped/ran into some joints, and I was wondering if it will really cause problems... I am building a baltic birch vertical cabinet, and the corners are Dado/Rabbet joints, with a couple shelves in the middle that are simply dado's. (Sorry newbie terminology)

 

Shellac is dewaxed flakes mixed to a #1 cut with 2 coats.

 

Should I worry about it, or do I start sanding and scraping it out?

 

Thanks!

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Why did it drip into those joints? Did you coat the whole piece? If so, and the drips are not an unsightly bulge, I cannot see a huge issue. If you did not coat the whole piece, then you could conceivably have a difference show with whatever goes over the top. Was that easy to follow?

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I think you had the correct response C..

 

If you're concerned about glue sticking to a little finish in the joints, you're probably fine.  You should try to prevent that in the future.  If you're trying to put finish over glue, that never works.

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Pic is old. Dry fit before sanding. Just wanted to show joints in question.

To make it easier to apply shellac, I figured I would sand and apply before glue-up. Being a newbie I got shellac-crazy and started applying, not thinking straight.

I will try and wipe off.

Thanks for replies! Greatly appreciated!

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Nice! Thanks for the welcome!

Just to add more details to the finish to get your opinions...

Applied 2 coats of #1 cut dewaxed shellac to seal the birch.

Adding 10% General Finishes Amber dye stain into some General Finishes High Performance (both water based) to slightly tint the wood.

Was thinking of applying another coat of shellac to seal dye, then add more coats of clear (no dye) High Performance until I'm happy with the finish.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

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Update.

 

Glue up didn't go so well.

 

Glue dried too quick for me to get the clamps on and align all the joints correctly. Almost every joint is slightly skewed. Tried to beat them straight with a mallet, but no go.

 

Now I get to try and fix it. - I assume I can use a hand plane to knock down the high spots and to bring everything back together?

 

I will post pics tomorrow once the glue finishes curing.

 

Have a great day!

Cory

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Skew or wracking are your enemies here. Based on your pic: if one shelf is forward by an eighth on the left but backward by an eighth on the right then your shelf is not fully seated in the dado and the whole piece will be out of square. If one shelf is forward by an eighth on both ends, you may still be square. To take a plane to the front of the shelf and the back of the frame will reduce your overall dimension but will not hurt. In fact this is common practice in many fine shops because many of us will have a board swell a touch with glue moisture or will be off by the barest fraction. That plane will take all the shadow lines away and keep your fingers from feeling the catch. Let us know how it goes.

Edit: That appears to be ply. Edge planing ply is often tricky...

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Just a thought to consider in future projects where you think your glue will cure to quickly, try to do sub sections.  So, in the case of this shelf, you could have done the top and bottom to the sides and clamped/squared and let it dry.  Then come back and put the shelves in.

 

I find I have to do this a lot especially in summer months.

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I try to do complex glue ups during the summer months very early in the day before the temperatures rise. I also do sub sections. Clamping a few joints and come back in an hour to do some more.

Clamping up a dry run is always a good idea so you have everything already before you apply any glue .

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Yeah I never thought of gluing up in sections. Could have done 2 shelves at a time, then done the top and bottom. Damn!

 

Each shelf seems to be shifted side to side. - Except for one! lol. Maximum shift seems to be barely 1/16". Most are half that.

 

I have an old hand plane that I could use... Might just use 80grit paper on a palm sander to knock it down. Just have to be careful to avoid humps and valleys. 

 

Going to break from it today and focus on R&R.

 

Have a good day!

Cory

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I have clamped wood blocks on either side of a protruding misaligned joint and then sanded it down flush. Plywood can tear easily with a plane. Sometimes I have used coarse sandpaper glued to a flat board to take it down close then a finer grit to smooth things out so I can glue on a faceplate .

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Yeah I never thought of gluing up in sections. Could have done 2 shelves at a time, then done the top and bottom. Damn!

 

Each shelf seems to be shifted side to side. - Except for one! lol. Maximum shift seems to be barely 1/16". Most are half that.

 

I have an old hand plane that I could use... Might just use 80grit paper on a palm sander to knock it down. Just have to be careful to avoid humps and valleys. 

 

Going to break from it today and focus on R&R.

 

Have a good day!

Cory

 

Lesson learned, also called wisdom  ;) Unfortunately, without consequences there is not learning..

 

I haven't tried Steve's method but, sounds like a solid plan!

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