coryshewchuk Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Hello! I've been trying to find an answer to this all day... I have some dewaxed shellac that dripped/ran into some joints, and I was wondering if it will really cause problems... I am building a baltic birch vertical cabinet, and the corners are Dado/Rabbet joints, with a couple shelves in the middle that are simply dado's. (Sorry newbie terminology) Shellac is dewaxed flakes mixed to a #1 cut with 2 coats. Should I worry about it, or do I start sanding and scraping it out? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 You will have issues if there's glue where you want finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Why did it drip into those joints? Did you coat the whole piece? If so, and the drips are not an unsightly bulge, I cannot see a huge issue. If you did not coat the whole piece, then you could conceivably have a difference show with whatever goes over the top. Was that easy to follow? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Wow, did I read that wrong... Thanks C! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 No Kev, now I am confused. I read the post, you read the thread title. To the OP, are we talking shellac, or TB III? Are you asking if TB III will bond to shellac? Is the pic a dry fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 I think you had the correct response C.. If you're concerned about glue sticking to a little finish in the joints, you're probably fine. You should try to prevent that in the future. If you're trying to put finish over glue, that never works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Either way, don't sand or scrape shellac. Wipe it off with a rag dipped in denatured alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryshewchuk Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Pic is old. Dry fit before sanding. Just wanted to show joints in question. To make it easier to apply shellac, I figured I would sand and apply before glue-up. Being a newbie I got shellac-crazy and started applying, not thinking straight. I will try and wipe off. Thanks for replies! Greatly appreciated! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 BTW, welcome to the forum! I am not done making mistakes. Not to depress anyone but just as support that it is not just newbies:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Yes, welcome to the forums Cory! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryshewchuk Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Nice! Thanks for the welcome! Just to add more details to the finish to get your opinions... Applied 2 coats of #1 cut dewaxed shellac to seal the birch. Adding 10% General Finishes Amber dye stain into some General Finishes High Performance (both water based) to slightly tint the wood. Was thinking of applying another coat of shellac to seal dye, then add more coats of clear (no dye) High Performance until I'm happy with the finish. Any suggestions? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Sounds like a good plan. Wipe with alcohol maybe a light sand then glue it up. Your finish plan should work fine. If I am pre finishing before assembly I tape off the glue surfaces to keep them clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryshewchuk Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Yes! That's the plan. Gonna glue up today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Nice, let us know how it works out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryshewchuk Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Update. Glue up didn't go so well. Glue dried too quick for me to get the clamps on and align all the joints correctly. Almost every joint is slightly skewed. Tried to beat them straight with a mallet, but no go. Now I get to try and fix it. - I assume I can use a hand plane to knock down the high spots and to bring everything back together? I will post pics tomorrow once the glue finishes curing. Have a great day! Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Skew or wracking are your enemies here. Based on your pic: if one shelf is forward by an eighth on the left but backward by an eighth on the right then your shelf is not fully seated in the dado and the whole piece will be out of square. If one shelf is forward by an eighth on both ends, you may still be square. To take a plane to the front of the shelf and the back of the frame will reduce your overall dimension but will not hurt. In fact this is common practice in many fine shops because many of us will have a board swell a touch with glue moisture or will be off by the barest fraction. That plane will take all the shadow lines away and keep your fingers from feeling the catch. Let us know how it goes. Edit: That appears to be ply. Edge planing ply is often tricky... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Just a thought to consider in future projects where you think your glue will cure to quickly, try to do sub sections. So, in the case of this shelf, you could have done the top and bottom to the sides and clamped/squared and let it dry. Then come back and put the shelves in. I find I have to do this a lot especially in summer months. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 I try to do complex glue ups during the summer months very early in the day before the temperatures rise. I also do sub sections. Clamping a few joints and come back in an hour to do some more. Clamping up a dry run is always a good idea so you have everything already before you apply any glue . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryshewchuk Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Yeah I never thought of gluing up in sections. Could have done 2 shelves at a time, then done the top and bottom. Damn! Each shelf seems to be shifted side to side. - Except for one! lol. Maximum shift seems to be barely 1/16". Most are half that. I have an old hand plane that I could use... Might just use 80grit paper on a palm sander to knock it down. Just have to be careful to avoid humps and valleys. Going to break from it today and focus on R&R. Have a good day! Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 I have clamped wood blocks on either side of a protruding misaligned joint and then sanded it down flush. Plywood can tear easily with a plane. Sometimes I have used coarse sandpaper glued to a flat board to take it down close then a finer grit to smooth things out so I can glue on a faceplate . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Yeah I never thought of gluing up in sections. Could have done 2 shelves at a time, then done the top and bottom. Damn! Each shelf seems to be shifted side to side. - Except for one! lol. Maximum shift seems to be barely 1/16". Most are half that. I have an old hand plane that I could use... Might just use 80grit paper on a palm sander to knock it down. Just have to be careful to avoid humps and valleys. Going to break from it today and focus on R&R. Have a good day! Cory Lesson learned, also called wisdom Unfortunately, without consequences there is not learning.. I haven't tried Steve's method but, sounds like a solid plan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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