Smoothing plane - low angle or standard


Bill Tarbell

Recommended Posts

Thanks, llama.  I haven't tried a low angle plane yet and don't have any local woodworker friends to borrow from.  I'd love to hear some of the things you appreciate about yours.

 

Low angle seems to be a more modern design and so i've been having trouble locating any older models to refurb.  Due to this, I'll likely be buying either LN or Veritas.  The more info i can glean prior to the pricey purchase, the better :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Low angle is more versatile but has less mass.  But that versatility comes with the price of having to own at least two blades and switching them out when you need to perform a different task.  The low angle excels at cutting end grain, but for everything else I prefer a standard angle plane...the feel, the mass, the cut, the look.

 

As is so often the answer to questions like this...why own only one when you can own both at twice the price?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To Kikis point.

End grain, I agree with a caveat. The blade comes from LN at 25 degrees. If you leave it there, great for end grain.

If you choose to put a higher angle on it, the plane works very well as a smoothing plane on the face and edges of a board. No need for separate blades unless you want an extra are for end grain, or perhaps super figured wood that you should be using a scraper for. And when you increase the angle, there is no need to regrind. Simply hone the blade as you normally would for sharpening but set at the higher angle.

Low angle planes get a bad rap for the "needing multiple blades thing". Fact is you really don't. I have one blade for my low angle smoother and my low angle jack. Would the plane be more versatile with an extra blade? Sure, but isn't necessary.

Why do I like them so darn much? Adjustable mouth, better (for me) ergonomics, blade depth mechanism is dead simple, no chip breakers to deal with, I like the looks. My main reason for buying the low angle jack (my first low angle plane) was my hand felt cramped with the standard jack plane.

It really comes down to preference. As with most anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have both.  this might offend some, but it seems to me the low angle plane is kind of like a hand plane for dummies (which I consider myself) or a hand plane with training wheels.  Fewer moving parts, fewer adjustments, basically less to screw up.  So I find myself using my LN low angle jack for smoothing.  The blade changes don't bother me because you just have to loosen one screw.  Maybe one day I will graduate to the standard planes (I have two different smoothers) but maybe not.  But I don't even use a plane on all projects so I might be the wrong guy listen to! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not offensive, but maybe inaccurate. While I agree there is less to mess up, why does this mean it's for beginners?

The plane can do anything a standard plane can, and more. Simply because it's easier to use doesn't mean it's for "dummies".

One could argue that the harder to use plane is for the dummy. ;) Why make things more difficult than they need to be. :)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not offensive, but maybe inaccurate. While I agree there is less to mess up, why does this mean it's for beginners?

The plane can do anything a standard plane can, and more. Simply because it's easier to use doesn't mean it's for "dummies".

One could argue that the harder to use plane is for the dummy. ;) Why make things more difficult than they need to be. :)

 

Fair point.  The FWW podcast ran an interview with the president of Lee Valley.  He made the argument that traditionally, low angle planes did not catch on because they were prone to breaking... basically the geometry of low angle planes put too much pressure on the cast iron of the day.   Modern ducticle cast irons are much stronger, which is why you see a lot of people using modern low angle jacks but very few vintage versions.  Very few survived... if you were cabinet maker and spent a week's pay on a plane and it broke, you would not buy another one like it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think there is a new formula for this topic. When buying your first hand plane, you are supposed to get a low angle jack plane. This way, you have a versatile plane that can do many things, not as good as dedicated planes for specific tasks, but it will get you to point b. Bevel up vs bevel down is a preference thing mostly, and you'll have people hollering about it from both corners. I think the deeper you dive into hand planes and incorporate them into your work flow, you will begin to realize that the line blurs a bit. It doesn't become a " which do I like more", but more of a "what tool does this specific task need". You see, all wood behaves differently and you really begin to realize this as the plane translates it right back to your hands. For me personally, my low angle jack has a toothed blade in it and it has remained that way ever since I got it. I use it for rough removal. I have 2 bevel down smoothers, one with a 45 deg frog and the other with a 55 deg frog. This suits my personal needs, and will differ for just about everyone else here. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Side question - Does the high angle frog on the bevel down version work worse for less figured woods? I've been using my No. 62 as a smoother with a different iron, but want to get my first dedicated smoother. I'm thinking about leaving the higher angles alone since I mostly work with cooperative species, but I figure if the high angle doesn't hurt I might get it anyways just in case. Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Side question - Does the high angle frog on the bevel down version work worse for less figured woods? I've been using my No. 62 as a smoother with a different iron, but want to get my first dedicated smoother. I'm thinking about leaving the higher angles alone since I mostly work with cooperative species, but I figure if the high angle doesn't hurt I might get it anyways just in case. Thoughts?

it just makes it more difficult to push. Regular angle saves your energy.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that a LA smoother will appeal to three types of users:

Firstly, it will appeal to those looking for a plane that is easy to set up, requires minimal tuning, and one that is utterly reliable. A bevel up plane is a no-brainer. That is why so many buying their first quality handplane choose either a LV or LN LA smoother.

Secondly, it will appeal to those who want a Swiss Army Knife. Since the cutting angle comes from the secondary bevel, it is possible to use the plane over a wider range that a bevel down handplane (such as a low 37 degrees to as high as you like). The LA jack is an example since it can be used on a shooting board, as a long smoother, and as a short jointer.

Thirdly, a bevel up plane will appeal to the advanced woodworker who planes highly interlocked grain. This is where it comes in for myself. I smooth Jarrah and other local West Australian hardwoods which are Trouble. They are tamed with a high cutting angle (60 degrees), and the LV Bevel Up Smoother (BUS) is a prime example.

Regards from Perth

Derek

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my opinion the idea of owning several bench planes boggles me, unless you already have a tool chest full of joinery planes and other useful hand tools. A LA Jack Plane outfitted with two blades can handle almost all your bench planing tasks. I could see someone making an agrument for a jointer plane if they mill long boards by hand. For smoothing stock that is too short for the LA Jack a LA block plane works very well as a smoother. One might be suprised how many planing tasks you can acomplish with just a LA Jack and A Rabbet Block Plane.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha, yea, there's plenty of info here, but it's all appreciated :)  I bought the veritas bevel up smoother and have been enjoying it so far.  Though, i've only tried it out on a couple boards, but it's worked wonderfully.  I'm looking forward to using it on some upcoming projects.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my opinion the idea of owning several bench planes boggles me, unless you already have a tool chest full of joinery planes and other useful hand tools. A LA Jack Plane outfitted with two blades can handle almost all your bench planing tasks. I could see someone making an agrument for a jointer plane if they mill long boards by hand. For smoothing stock that is too short for the LA Jack a LA block plane works very well as a smoother. One might be suprised how many planing tasks you can acomplish with just a LA Jack and A Rabbet Block Plane.

If you don't use a power planer or jointer it helps to have a variety set differently.  This wouldn't be very affordable with new planes, though.  Better still if you can get some heirloom planes rather than eBay. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't use a power planer or jointer it helps to have a variety set differently.  This wouldn't be very affordable with new planes, though.  Better still if you can get some heirloom planes rather than eBay. 

I see your point to some degree but I think you can get all your milling done witha Jointer and Jack plane outfitted with the right blades. I was also stating that joinery planes might be more useful than a no. 6 or 5 1/4.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.