Tony Wilkins Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Since I haven't used my Veritas BU jointer since getting my LN #7 I've decided to move it on (as soon as I can find a box to mail the beast in). I've been feeling the need to have something bevel down between my #7 and #4 (as I have a BU LN #62). I had an LN #5 and just didn't like the feel of it. Here's the options I've narrowed it down to... 1. LN #6 2. LN # 5 1/4 3. Scrub plane (great for heavy removal but not sure if I like that it's not versatile like a standard Bailey style). 4. None needed - save the money for something else (wood, spokeshave, etc) so whatdya think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellardoor Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 I haven't followed closely so I don't know what other types of planes you have, but I don't see the need for the above planes, even if you do need to remove heavy stock. I keep an old Stanley #5 from my grandpa around for that. Anything for work that rough and aggressive wouldn't be a boutique purchase, at least for me. Maybe a shoulder plane if you don't have one? As far as bench planes it seems a smoother, jack, and jointer can accomplish just about anything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 4. With added option 5. You have really great planes. Why not try a vintage Bailey 5 or 51/2 or 6 and see if it's something that floats your boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisG Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 What do you plan to use it for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missioninwood Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 As long as you can hold up the No. 7 for long periods of time you are set. I have had several No. 6's over the years and never really cared for them. Only a 4" difference there, well, but size really does matter. If you do go for a Scrub--which you do not need at all unless you are working really rough--any old plane will do. Don't spend a bunch of cash. I use an old Transitional plane with a wicked camber and wide open mouth. Cost me about $20. miw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Prefer my six to a four when I can get away with it. I think it is a weight and heft preference. Makes it personal, and harder to suggest to a different person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 A scrub plane like a #40 is more close to a #4 in size. A heavily cambered jack plane is about as good in hardwood, but for taking out cup it works well, and it eats softwood for breakfast. But if you're looking for a roughing plane, go vintage. #6 isn't as popular as the others so they sell for less. If you want a spokeshave, vintage and new Stanleys are cheap, and Paul Sellers just wrote a series of blog posts on tuning them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missioninwood Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 4. Not like me to disagree with Graham. Don't buy anything if you don't "need" it, but if you do stay away from vintage. IMO. I was using my Wood River spokeshave last night. I think it is a good value. The blade might be a little tricky to hone for some tho. miw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 What!!!!!!! lol! :-). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I have to agree with missionwood. I have tried vintage planes and absolutely hate the restoration process. I just prefer to be a user not a tool restorer. With that being said I don't like any of your options. I don't really understand how a #6 and # 5 1/4 would be that useful. In fact as far as bench planes go, I don't know why you would really need more than #4, #5, and #7. What kind of joinery planes do you have. Do you have a moving Fillister, Skew Rabbet Plane, Plow Plane, or Router Plane? I would go with one of those before the planes you mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomwolf Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I second James on this one, if you have a #4, a #7 and a BU #5, I would say your best bet is to look at joinery planes. I recently got the LV router plane and it is a sweet, well made tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I'd go veritas bevel up jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 OK, my initial (though not in line with my shiny new tool habit) thought was correct that I’m set on bench planes. My thought on something a little shorter than the #7 came from something I might just be confused on. Is it possible to have a plane too long for a piece of wood? I’ve read that somewhere, sometime. If not then yeah I’m set with the #7. I’m really well set with joinery planes (lv router, lv fillister, lv small plow, lv med shoulder, LN t & g) thanks to a gift from a relative. So follow on questions coming: 1. how well does rough removal work with a BU plane with toothing blade? 2. I don’t have any gouges. How well would a #1 sweep work as a first/general firmer gouge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post jmaichel Posted July 26, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Sounds like you are pretty well set Tony. Might I recommend a benchtop planer, milling by hand is time consuming and a bit of a PITA. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CStanford Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 OK, my initial (though not in line with my shiny new tool habit) thought was correct that I’m set on bench planes. My thought on something a little shorter than the #7 came from something I might just be confused on. Is it possible to have a plane too long for a piece of wood? I’ve read that somewhere, sometime. If not then yeah I’m set with the #7. I’m really well set with joinery planes (lv router, lv fillister, lv small plow, lv med shoulder, LN t & g) thanks to a gift from a relative. So follow on questions coming: 1. how well does rough removal work with a BU plane with toothing blade? 2. I don’t have any gouges. How well would a #1 sweep work as a first/general firmer gouge? If you want to remove material fast, by hand, get an iron scrub plane or an old wooden jack plane (the jack is the more traditional tool) -- both bevel down. Wooden jacks are all over Ebay. Except the most egregious examples almost any would do fine. Make sure the iron has life left and is not pitted or is pitted so lightly that it will lap out easily. As to straight gouges, don't buy until needed. The first gouge you'll most likely need for furnituremaking is an in-cannel gouge for scribed miters in cabinet doors. The size you need depends on the profile you'd be scribing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshC1501 Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Sounds like you are pretty well set Tony. Might I recommend a benchtop planer, milling by hand is time consuming and a bit of a PITA. Have to agree here. Milling rough stock totally by hand any more often than "on occasion" just doesn't make me happy. I would go with a lunchbox planer if u really want a new tool! Tools grow like weeds in my shop! I am determined to build a lot of stuff before I buy anymore tools. Even though I would love to have a big router for my table, shoulder plane, or router plane!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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