kendallstrand Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 I just received the mk ii and and gave my chisels a good working over with it today. Very pleased except for minor issue which is baffling me a bit. When I sharpen the the main bevel everything is nice and even/square. I'm being very concious of my pressure and essentially just letting the jig and stone do the work. My issue is this: when I click the microbevel to the 6 o'clock position I get an uneven bevel. More material is being taken off one side than the other causing a tapered micro bevel. I can't imagine this is normal and I can't seem to find a solution searching the forum archives. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtrust Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 I don't have the answer for you, but I can tell you that you are not alone. I have the very same issue. Drives me nuts. It's hard to believe that we both received bad versions of the MKII, so it must be some sort of beginners mistake. I'll be watching this thread to see if someone can shed light on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 I had the same with mine. I sent it back. Replacement one works fine had it for 3 or 4 years now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellardoor Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Yeah. Sounds like a bad unit. Must be something in the machining of the roller. Mine works perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Are you cleaning the wheel between grits? Also before the microbevel? Is it possible that the stone is developing a void in one area, and it's more noticeable on the micro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendallstrand Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Ya I'm kind of leaning toward a defective jig, but I hate to assume that since I'm a rookie user. FL I do wipe down the roller before changing grits, but I haven't consistently wiped before the micro. Sometimes I do sometimes I don't and I certainly don't have a reason why I'm inconsistent there. Anywho, the stone is flat BUUUUUUTTTTT you may have a point that the micro bevel may magnify the issue.I just can't imagine that a 2 degree difference in bevel angle would cause such a drastic change in results. I had the same thought while I was trying to trouble shoot the problem so I was turning the stones end for end as well as trying the microbevel on different stones. Same result everytime... Maybe I'll re-lapp them tomorrow if I get a chance and give it another go. Otherwise, it's off to the store for a replacement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I'm just tossing out an idea don't know if I'm right or not. To eliminate any stone issue, lap the stone(s) and hone your primary bevel, then relap and hone the micro. Just to be sure. Worth a shot When honing a micro, I only apply pressure on the pull stroke. Not sure if you do the same or not. Again, worth a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I also have this issue but it is not consistent. I have narrowed it down to a couple theories. When tightening the two lock down nuts you over tighten one side to much. My second theory is because my chisels are cheap they do not ride along the fence square. Don't know if either are the case but it puts my mind to ease thinking I have found the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Call Customer Service at LV. They're great to work with, and this shouldn't be happening. I've had zero issues with mine, and my helpers can use it with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendallstrand Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I'm just tossing out an idea don't know if I'm right or not. To eliminate any stone issue, lap the stone(s) and hone your primary bevel, then relap and hone the micro. Just to be sure. Worth a shot When honing a micro, I only apply pressure on the pull stroke. Not sure if you do the same or not. Again, worth a shot. I was thinking of trying this but I may just got straight to LV as Tom suggested and get it replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendallstrand Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I also have this issue but it is not consistent. I have narrowed it down to a couple theories. When tightening the two lock down nuts you over tighten one side to much. My second theory is because my chisels are cheap they do not ride along the fence square. Don't know if either are the case but it puts my mind to ease thinking I have found the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I can basically rule this out because the primary bevel cuts nice and even. Either way a call to LV is in the near future. On a side note I see you're from Colorado Springs. I'm just north of you in Castle Rock. Maybe we'll cross paths some day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradpotts Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Let me know what you find out so I can stop blaming my chisels. I always blame them so maybe I can justify a set of lie Nielsens someday. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooseAlert Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I am also experiencing the same problem. I am glad to hear I am not alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CStanford Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Top clamping jigs are not particularly reliable. They're just not. If you spent 30 minutes trying to diagnose a problem you spent too much time. They are inherently flawed, all of them. Add liquid to the mix, water or oil, and they're even worse. You might be able to pussyfoot around and keep chisels square but it's not worth the trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Top clamping jigs are not particularly reliable. They're just not. If you spent 30 minutes trying to diagnose a problem you spent too much time. They are inherently flawed, all of them. Add liquid to the mix, water or oil, and they're even worse. You might be able to pussyfoot around and keep chisels square but it's not worth the trouble. CStanford, since you decided to take the time to post this opinion in broad brushstrokes, I'm sure it just slipped your mind to provide some evidence, even if anecdotal, for such a claim. Oh, and also you forgot to contribute something useful to this conversation, such as advice. To the OP, I have the same jig. If you are confident that your stones are true, your chisel is clamped with even pressure and is square in the jig, then it sounds like a defective unit. Mine works great, but even clamping pressure is important, especially on narrower chisels. Keep an eye on the number of threads that can be seen through the knurled nuts to be sure. LV is a great company, I'm sure you will have no trouble if you request a replacement. Good luck and let us know how this turns out! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CStanford Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 These types of jigs are so sensitive as to how the unit to be honed is mounted that they are in essence, defective. They turn what should be a quick honing session into a knob-dialing, check it, and dial again session where you practically need a miniature torque wrench to make sure all is socked down evenly. And then if the unit comes out askew you have to grind and hone until you get it straight again. More time, more frustration. The last thing you need in woodworking (hand tool or otherwise) are external sources of inaccuracy - cheap power tools, balky jigs, bent saws, etc. "More harm than good" applies here in spades. Eliminate EVERYTHING in your shop that has the potential to do more harm to your woodworking than it does good and you'll be so much happier. The problem with the jig you mentioned is a well-documented one across internet woodworking forums. Check it for yourself. There are several threads on every forum on the internet dealing with the same problem you're having, and they go back to the introduction of the jig. The original Veritas jig, with one large brass screw in the center, was actually much better though still prone to the problem you're having. Get rid of the gewgaws and you'll be happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 If it is not working to your satisfaction, just contact Lee Valley. They have the best after sales backup in the business, bar none. There have been some reports on the forums of defective guides. Some of these are probably down to user error, some are probably not. With all the honing guide designs there are pros and cons. There is no perfect guide (and I have most of them although my preference is to freehand blades). In my experience, the LV is a good guide, both in design and execution. If it were not, there would be more complaints and few recommendations. So, contact LV if you have a concern. They will put it right. Regards from Perth Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 I have never had this problem with mine, but I have had problems with the chisel sliding at times; are you sure it's staying put? If I were you I would hone your primary, adjust the wheel, slide the setup jig back on and check to make sure it's still square to the jig. Also make sure your putting equal pressure on each side of the chisels tip. I hold the jig in both hands placing an index finger on each side of the chisel about 1/4" from the tip. If you do all this and still have a problem I would call but for the life of me I can't see what would be wrong with the jig. I haven't used my jig an quite a while because I switch to freehand sharpening. After watching Rob Cosmans method and a little practice I get perfect results in a fraction of the time, I only say this to give you another option; there is no right or wrong method as long as you get the results your after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 These types of jigs are so sensitive as to how the unit to be honed is mounted that they are in essence, defective. They turn what should be a quick honing session into a knob-dialing, check it, and dial again session where you practically need a miniature torque wrench to make sure all is socked down evenly. And then if the unit comes out askew you have to grind and hone until you get it straight again. More time, more frustration. The last thing you need in woodworking (hand tool or otherwise) are external sources of inaccuracy - cheap power tools, balky jigs, bent saws, etc. "More harm than good" applies here in spades. Eliminate EVERYTHING in your shop that has the potential to do more harm to your woodworking than it does good and you'll be so much happier. The problem with the jig you mentioned is a well-documented one across internet woodworking forums. Check it for yourself. There are several threads on every forum on the internet dealing with the same problem you're having, and they go back to the introduction of the jig. The original Veritas jig, with one large brass screw in the center, was actually much better though still prone to the problem you're having. Get rid of the gewgaws and you'll be happier. Wow, prone to hyperbole much? I did research the jig, which is why I purchased it to begin with. As with any tool, proper use is the key to good results. I was simply pointing out correct usage of what is, in my opinion, a very good and reliable product. If this unit is problematic, it is most likely a defective unit. The OP was asking for help, not a smackdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Ive had a tool slip a time or two, but i caught it and corrected it before i did any damage. I have the mk11 as well. Overall, ive had great results with it. I was hoping LN would release their new clamping guide on steroids soon as it was more user friendly to hook up to the tool, but required your own resources to set for angle. That was my reason for the mk11 in the first place, it have everything you needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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