ajkezele Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi All, I am new to this forum and soon to be new to fatherhood. With the little one on the way, I was able to convince my wife (which took perseverance and some other successful projects) to let me build the crib. After lots of planning and research I came up with a design and recently got started. The goal is to do it without any visible fasteners or hardware but also to have it come apart because I would like to have the option of having it be a convertible bed in the future. As of right now, the plan is to make the front and back tenon into the legs and then have the sides attach with a couple sets of these so that it can come apart: http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Wrought-Steel-Fastener/dp/B001DSXHW6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406578348&sr=8-4&keywords=bed+rail+fasteners&dpPl=1 I have no doubt that this would do the trick to hold it all together but I was planning on using one complete set per side with fasters on both the top and the bottom. That said, can anyone offer some guidance on alternatives for the top so I can just use these on the four bottom connections? The execution of getting them to match up is one thing that makes me ask this question but so is the fact that I'd like to have the ability to use it as a full sized bed without the female side of these connectors being visible on what will become the head and the footboard. Thanks in advance for any help. Aaron Attached are some pictures of the progress I've made so far. Still need to make the center panels for the sides of the crib and pull together the back of it as well. Not sure if this impacts anyone's suggestions but the legs are going to be maple since its stronger and more dent resistant and everything else is Poplar. the starting point slats, slats, and more slats matching up everything for the front front and sides (minus the center pieces on the sides) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnorris1369 Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Welcome to the forum. I'm fairly new to this forum and woodworking so I can't offer much advice but you will get some from others here. There's a great bunch of helpful people here just wanted to say welcome. Project looks great so far. And most important CONGRATS on new addition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Thanks Dnorris...it is definitely an exciting time and I can't wait to see our little girl in the crib for the first time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 If you don't mind the 'decorative element' of a hole through the vertical members of the head and foot boards, you could use a tusk tenon on the top. I think the tenon and wedge is a nice visual feature, but you may not want the protrusions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 A tusk tenon would be an interesting solution and it is honestly one that I never thought/heard of. To your point, I think we are trying to keep it more concealed although that would definitely give it some added character. While it may not be the answer for this project...It is something I will certainly be exploring in the future. In order to keep it concealed/temporary I'm assuming it will still need to be hardware but it is probably worth noting that all the weight will fall on the front and back (the mattress frame will mount to those pieces) so the sides are really just to keep it square and upright. Thanks again for the suggestion wtnhighlander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 You might use the same hardware for the top as for the bottom, then replace it with a decorative inlay when it is no longer needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 You might use the same hardware for the top as for the bottom, then replace it with a decorative inlay when it is no longer needed. That may be the ticket and/or just getting another set of the hardware to attach some sort of a decorative cover over it so it isn't a permanent change. Not sure when we may need it to be a crib again and I'd also like to have the ability to pass it on. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 You might try wearin shoes or boots while working on your project. You drop one of those panels on your toes and you'll be laid up for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 You might try wearin shoes or boots while working on your project. You drop one of those panels on your toes and you'll be laid up for a while. Haha...thanks for the tip. I took that picture before starting up the next morning so was sure to put on some footwear. Safety first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Are you looking for multiple heights as well? Presumably at least a high newborn setting, and a bottom setting for when he baby can pull up to his/her feet around 8 months? I'll take a few photos of the hardware on my store bought crib - perhaps it'll give you some inspirado. Lag bolts if I recall, you can always hide with plugs (on the outside, to prevent choking). Also, I assume you have all the current safety standards for heights and slat hole width? I think they change every few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Are you looking for multiple heights as well? Presumably at least a high newborn setting, and a bottom setting for when he baby can pull up to his/her feet around 8 months? I'll take a few photos of the hardware on my store bought crib - perhaps it'll give you some inspirado. Lag bolts if I recall, you can always hide with plugs (on the outside, to prevent choking). Also, I assume you have all the current safety standards for heights and slat hole width? I think they change every few years. Thanks Vinny...I actually looked at a friends crib to figure out the hardware so that it won't have the holes going up the posts. I'm going to use these to attach the hardware to the crib: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT11CA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I was planning on using hardware similar to the one in this video to actually raise and lower it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=277gnK1Cco8 The last I checked on the slat spacing was no more than 2 3/8's so I planned it to be right at 2 inches between each. As for the height of the crib, the standard I had seen was 38 inches from the ground to the top of the front rail but I made it at 37 since my wife is on the shorter side. I figure I can make the adjustments with the actual mattress height as opposed to stressing too much about the overall height since the front panel is tall enough to give me some flexibility. Any pictures you could provide would be helpful though so I can have a couple reference points. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I can see the light at the end of the tunnel...just need to replace the clamps with the hardware from the original post and then it's time to figure out the platform for the bed. I will post a final picture when it's all done (both before and after paint ) but I clamped it all together last night and was pretty happy with how it turned out so I figured I'd share. Thanks again for all the replies to offer suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Nice work. You've done a pretty great job of figuring it all out on your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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