Push Stick thought.

[lavenderallen89]

I'm new to woodworking, Ive spent much time in the recent past looking up all kinds of wood working videos, and recently got my first table saw.  And maybe this is a silly question, but I was starting to make my own push stick. I had a thought, I never saw any videos about adding sandpaper to the bottom of the push stick. To me it seems like it could give you more control over the stock. However, I am new so I figured I'd bring the question to the forums. Is this a bad or good idea and why or why not? 

[mds2]

It is a good idea.  I've done it with my push stick.

[Beechwood Chip]

It's a good idea if your push stick doesn't have a heel to push the wood through.  And it couldn't hurt.  Maybe use sandpaper that's no longer sharp enough for sanding.

 

Sandpaper is also good for the bottoms of jigs that you don't want to slide, like guides for circular saws and routers.

[wtnhighlander]

Take care with using sandpaper if you work with softer woods. It can leave a lot of indentations and scratches to deal with.

[Tpt life]

I waffle on this topic. Sand paper is great on surfaces it imprints with, but WTN has it right about what that imprinting can do. For harder surfaces, the paper actually puts less material in contact with the product and can lessen the frictional coefficient. I prefer the "heel" already mentioned or a rubberized type surface to sandpaper.

[Beechwood Chip]

Old mouse pads make good sticky push-block surfaces.  Also, the rubber mesh used by restaurants on shelves to protect glassware.

[Dave]

I don't use sandpaper because if I am cutting small pieces of wood I push the wood and push stick thru the tablesaw blade. 

[wdwerker]

I put a magnet in the side of my push sticks so they can hold to the side of the saw where they are handy. Using a push stick a lot less now that I have a pair of Gripper deluxe push blocks.

[missioninwood]

Just use the GRR-Ripper! 

 

miw

[CessnaPilotBarry]

I'm a big fan of push BLOCKS, instead of sticks.   You can make 50 of them from MDF or 3/4" plywood in an hour... 

 

Each one is simply a rectangle, ~ 12" long x 6"high, with a 1/2" notch cut out of 11" of the bottom.  This leaves a 1/2" high by 1" wide tab that pushes the stock.  the other 11" of the notch holds the stock down.  Like this, except without the curve: 

 

The best part of these is that you can also do narrow rips, as the devices are so cheap and fast to make, you let the blade cut right through the tab.   You can use templates, add curves, etc...  but I like making furniture and cabinets better than push blocks, so I leave them rectangular.

 

The less time and money you spend on consumable safety devices, like push devices, the less likely you'll be to try to "save" it if the blade is about to cut it, and possibly create an unsafe situation.  If it gets in the way, cut it, then toss it guilt-free.

[wtnhighlander]

I just use a chunk of 2x4 with a door shim screwed on one end to form the hook. Sacrifical as all get-out.

[Beechwood Chip]

I just use a chunk of 2x4 with a door shim screwed on one end to form the hook. Sacrifical as all get-out.

heh heh, zero clearance grr-ripper!

[TerryMcK]

I like TWW push stick - it keeps your hand well clear of any blades

[tim0625]

I have a small plastic one I picked up somewhere and use it most of the time. The other one that I also use often, I made from the Shop Notes magazine - 2 pieces of 1/2" ply, sandwiched together with a sacrificial heel.  I haven't had any real problems with slippage but the mouse pad addition sounds good...that is until I can spring for a gripper!

[Coop]

I like TWW push stick - it keeps your hand well clear of any blades

And, it looks cool too