MDF small bookcase - all Domino joinery


wouldwurker

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Built a small bookcase, custom fit for the dimensions of my son's growing collection of Dr Suess books.

 

Materials used were unfinished MDF in both 1/2 and 3/4".  The 3/4" material on the bottom gave the case some nice bottom weight and extra stability.  He'd have a tough time tipping it over as such.

 

Domino construction was a breeze and made for a quick half-day build and glue up.

 

Note the gap in the back of the bottom shelf.  This was by design.  I forget who's project I saw this on from the forum, but I really like the way it lets light pass through, and makes it look less 'cubby-ish'.

 

I learned that MDF 'end grain' is no fun, including any edges that were roundover'ed or beaded...even with the 50/50 titebond/water sealant, primer, and 3 cans of Rust-O-Leum spray enamel.  I spent more money on paint than materials...

 

600 grit wet sanding, and 1000 grit soft pad dry sanding did smooth it out somewhat. You can still see the crease in the two butt joints on the side though, even with a tight fit and flush trim on the router. 

 

Over the next few months, I'll sketch some cartoons on the sides and top, paint them, and finish off with a polycrylic topcoat.  In the meantime it's a functional bookshelf and side table

 

Not sure what I learned here....while I like the price and stability of MDF, I officially hate it.  There's fine dust everywhere, including my lungs, and I spent WAY too much time on the pre-finishing, sanding, and painting, sanding, painting.

 

Maybe plywood is the way to go for future projects to be painted?

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Baltic birch ply is also a good option for these types of things. It has lots of layers and no voids. I've routed the edge in a round over and left it exposed...looks good. Then a nice wiping varnish and boom...a nice quick simple shelf build.

But yeah, solid wood for the quality builds. Cheers. Keep on building.

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I use MDF all the time with good results.  I have to remind myself on each occasion to use oil-based primer though; WB raises the "grain" too much.  ;)  

 

I have had luck glue-sizing the end grain in MDF.  That and lightweight spackle.  wdwerker is right tho:  MDF and moisture do not go hand in hand.  But there is exterior MDF now.  It's more dense, heavy, and expensive but I have used it in several projects.

 

miw

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  • 1 month later...

DONE

Finally finished this book case. The original plan was to sketch Dr. Seuss characters on the sides and top and then paint them on with acrylics. When I went to Michael's to buy the paint I lucked out and found these cutouts, designed to place around a classroom bulletin board. They 'laminated' onto the MDF pretty well, and it turned out much better than I could have ever drew.

Used polyacrylic as an adhesive, and about seven coats as a topcoating as well. I also put West system epoxy around the edges of each cut-out to make them indestructible, since I imagine any kid would immediately go for the edges.

Plus a few more coats of poly-acrylic. :)

Construction is all Domino joinery.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sealcoat clear shellac, shellac-based white-tinted BIN, and Quick 15 vinyl sanding sealer, also seal MDF edges with minimal swelling, and sand well.     BIN is also available in spray bombs, and Zinnser Clear Spray Shellac is the same thing as Sealcoat, but in a spray can.

 

You may have one of the above products from other uses.  If you don't, Sealcoat is great stuff to keep on hand in general.   

 

Many people, especially in big box paint departments, might tell you BIN is crap, but chances are, they tried to thin it with paint thinner or water, not alcohol...  :ph34r:

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  • 3 weeks later...

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