New pole barn shop progress


estesbubba

Recommended Posts

I started getting quotes in December and signed an agreement in March, and now my dream shop is actually becoming a reality. I went with a Lester Building and chose my builder because he quickly answered emails and gave great advice. The building is 30x40 with a 8x40 porch. 
 
Here is area where I decided to put the building. The garden didn't do too well there because of afternoon shade.
 
IMG_0410.JPG
 
The first day was laying out the site and digging holes. They couldn't do anything more until the county inspector came out to measure the holes.
 
IMG_0023.JPG
 
On day 2 they set all the posts and started on the framing. 
 
IMG_0024.JPG
 
The 3rd day they put up the trusses, purlins, and more of the framing.
 
IMG_0026.JPG
 
On the 4th day they completed the porch, window, and door framing. 
 
IMG_0030.JPG
 
IMG_0031.JPG
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, that was quick. In Australia we usually pour the floor slab first, then do the timber walls on top to ensure no moisture travels into the timber frame but if the local authoriies are happy with this form of construction it must be ok.

Do you have a floor plan for where all the machines are going to live?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great estes, thanks for posting the details.  Looks like your friend approves too (dog named bubba?).

...looking forward to more and seeing your tools inside.

 

Great location.  Love all the land; I bet the porch view will be awesome in the winter.   :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was doing my research I was surprised that they do the concrete after putting the building up. They also put the posts on footings and just fill them in with dirt and not concrete.

 

Here is a shop layout from early spring. I'm sure it will change some once I get all the tools inside and can visualized it better.

 

post-8178-0-16084100-1407073366_thumb.pn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was doing my research I was surprised that they do the concrete after putting the building up. They also put the posts on footings and just fill them in with dirt and not concrete.

 

Here is a shop layout from early spring. I'm sure it will change some once I get all the tools inside and can visualized it better.

 

attachicon.gifShopLayout.png

 

That's certainly not always the case but, you are correct.  It is indeed done that way in many places.

 

Mine was done differently.  After the poles were set, I topped off the holes and poured the slab all at once.  Then I came back and finished the rest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its common practice pouring the slab after the building is erected but what about the footings.  

If they backfill the post holes with dirt why not flash them all the way to the footing as opposed to above grade.  They do this when setting posts for PVC fences.  A PVC sleeve is fitted over the entire post before it's set in concrete in the ground.  The difference is they backfill with concrete.  I'm just not sure how bare posts benefit from direct soil contact. ???  How are these posts treated?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its common practice pouring the slab after the building is erected but what about the footings.  

If they backfill the post holes with dirt why not flash them all the way to the footing as opposed to above grade.  They do this when setting posts for PVC fences.  A PVC sleeve is fitted over the entire post before it's set in concrete in the ground.  The difference is they backfill with concrete.  I'm just not sure how bare posts benefit from direct soil contact. ???  How are these posts treated?

And do the posts eventually rot?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I was called everything but foolish for saying this earlier in this forum, but know this. These were designed to fill a 35 year life. Original designers of this model reduced framing members to treated 6x6 or 4x4 that could at the time be reasonably expected to last about 35 years below grade regardless of the soil type. Modern treatments and improved technique coupled with various soil types mean that many are lasting well beyond 35 years, but I have had to swap out rotted (likely defective) and broken posts. This is one of a very few backwards trends in consumer production.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The new thing now is that concrete and wood (even pressure treated) should not touch.  Concrete will continually wick moisture and hold it to the wood, causing rot.  I would not put concrete around a post as it does no more good than just plain gravel, and if the post ever does need replacing it is much (MUCH) easier without a big ball of concrete on the end of it.  They make products such as sill gasket to prevent touching, but a strip of vapour barrier does the trick too.

 

Oh, and that is one sweet shop, congrats and enjoy!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also thought that filling in the holes with dirt seemed odd but that's how all the builders I spoke with do it. What's even stranger is my county requires dirt and my builder said the next county over is requiring crushed limestone to fill now. We was even surprised when the inspector checked his holes in that county and said "if you had your crushed limestone here you could fill the holes now". He said building in multiple counties that they each have their own rules and always changing them.

 

Lester Buildings and some others use three laminated 2x6's instead of a single 6x6 to get better treatment penetration. Lester's treated lumber has a 50 year warranty:

 

http://www.lesterbuildings.com/Why-Lester/Lifetime-Warranty/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw John Walton (The Walton's) the other day and he was cutting green pine fence posts, taking them off of the saw mill table and dipping one end about 18" deep in a 10 gallon bucket of hot bubbling tar. I was thinking if he also sealed the top end with the tar, it might last a while. Here on the coast, they have the regular pressure treated lumber like for building a back yard deck and then they have the "more green" lumber/posts that have a better treating and is designed to be used under water - like for a dock and it's supposed to last even longer. Some of you construction guys know what I mean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I lived on a hobby farm for 12 years and we had to have one of the pole buildings replaced. (Straight line winds.)  Here they require a concrete pad at the bottom of each hole that the post sits on top of.  Our builder poured a bag of concrete into the bottom of each hole, ran the hose into it for a few minutes and then came back the next day and set the posts.  Building inspector came and looked down one hole, saw the concrete, signed the papers and left.

 

Dipping posts in tar or pitch was an old way of protecting the ends.  Now-a-days it's more likely to be creosote.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.