New workbench

[Dewald Swanepoel]

Greetings folks,

 

I'm glad to have found this forum. It looks like the kind of place I'd enjoy. I will kick my participation off with a question on workbenches.

 

So I'm a real noob. I've done some woodworking over the years but have only recently started acquiring my own tools. And the one, most important tool, that I still don't have is a work bench. I feel it's time to give the patio table a reprieve now and build myself a workbench. Now I don't think I need anything too fancy and while a Roubo style bench would be awesome I think just a basic bench will do for now.

 

But I'd like to run it by some experts first who might be able to point out weaknesses or make suggestions. I'm attaching two pics of what I had in mind. I'll attach the Sketchup model as well in case anyone is interested in looking closer. You will notice that the entire bench is made from 2x4s, or some close metric relative. To be more precise, I'm looking at 38x114mm wood which is closer to 2x5 in weird-speak. :-)

 

For the surface and the shelf I'm thinking of either 18mm ply or 16mm MDF.

 

Feel free to rip the whole thing apart, but specifically, I'd like to ask these few questions:

 

1. Do you think this whole 2x4 framework will cut it? I'm thinking I could simply screw it all together with wood screws. Maybe fix the legs to the frame with coach bolts or something more sturdy than just a wood screw. Would I be OK with screws and bolts or should I consider mortise and tenon joints maybe?

2. Notice how the legs consist of two pieces of 2x4 that are screwed together in an L shape. Do you think this will be good enough or should I rather look at getting something more sturdy? Maybe something like a 90mm x 90mm square profile piece for each leg? The 2x4s would work out cheaper but if it means the bench won't be properly sturdy, I'd rather spend a little extra on the more solid legs.

3. Having Googled around a bit I notice some workbenches have wheels under the legs. One part of me likes the idea of that so that it can be moved about the room but the other part of me wants a really solid and steady bench and wants to just bolt the puppy firmly to the ground. I'm not sure if the brakes on those wheels are going to be steady enough. Would you have any opinions on that?

4. Do you have any opinions on what to use for the surface? Would MDF do? I'm worried to use separate planks of pine as I'm not sure the overall surface will be smooth enough. I don't have a planer or jointer or anything more hard core than an orbital sander which wouldn't come close to sand the surface smooth.

5. Staying with the surface, do you think I should give it some sort of finish or is raw wood better? I remember the workbenches I used to work on back in school and the one my father had were just plain raw wood. I'm not sure what is better.

Anyways, those are lots of questions. Let me rather leave it there. I'd appreciate some advice.

Workbench.skp

[ChetlovesMer]

Firstly, welcome to the forum.

Secondly, your design is plenty strong enough and it is far superior to what I started out with. Having said that, I would encourage you to rotate the cross members of the top and the base such that they are placed on edge instead of on their face.

 

Many a great project has been built on a workbench with an MDF top. You could leave it plain, but I'd coat it with a mixture of 1 part titebond with 1 part water, or even just a simple poly to protect it a bit, and keep it from absorbing moisture.

[Coop]

Dewald, Welcome to the forum. You are opening again the "work bench can of worms". I can offer no suggestions as I am also in the process of putting together thoughts for my own bench. However, bench designs have been discussed many times in the past here with some great ideas. There are a bunch of knowledgeable folks here that I am sure will contribute good suggestions like Chet's. Good luck on your build! Where are you located? 

[..Kev]

Welcome to the forums.

 

Norm built a similar bench and it was quite sturdy.  I do agree with Chet that those members would be better turned on edge.

 

As for the top, I would suggest ply over mdf as I think it will hold up better.

 

I don't like wheels on my bench but, sometimes your shop space requires them.  I do like leg levelers tho and use them quite often - Here's a link to the ones I normally use - http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-lifting-leveler

 

Good luck with your build and be sure to run a journal for us to see the progress.  I look forward to seeing it!

[ChetlovesMer]

Good point, K Cooper.

Yeah, there are tons of great information on benches on this forum.
I'm going to be bold and suggest one thing that others may not: "JUST BUILD A BENCH!"

 

My guess is that if you are truly new to woodworking you really don't know "exactly" what you need. So as my sculptor friend used to say "Just get your hands in the clay".

 

It's my opinion that no matter how much research, how much thought you put into your first bench, there is very little chance it will be your last. So, yes, put thought into it, research it, but at some point just jump in and build away. Get experience any way you can, build a ton, get your hands in the clay. If stuff comes out imperfect, chalk it up to experience. When I was first starting I made a lot of crap that I would be embarrassed by today. But that's the point. You need to learn somehow. Don't be embarrassed by mistakes. Everyone makes them. ... Eh, maybe not Graham. But all us mortals do. Be proud of what you build, even if it isn't perfect in your eyes. You will be amazed how many people are impressed by stuff you aren't that proud of. Enjoy the journey, the more stuff you build, the better woodworker you will be. I personally equate the workbench to the Jedi Lightsaber. When you are ready, you will build a great one. (Okay, that was really nerdy.)

 

Anyway, have fun, build a bench and post pictures.

Again, welcome to the forum.

[tim0625]

First Post----Welcome!!! Sounds like you have some good ideas.  KCooper and Chet said it...benches have been discussed a lot here so in addition to what people respond to your post, use the search bar because over the years, there have been a LOT of good bench ideas discussed!

[ponderingturtle]

What do you want to do with the bench? I am not sure the top as it is would be good for say bolting a large mechanics vise to and beating on things in it.  It might also have an issue with being really secure to bolt something down anywhere on it.

 

As a basic work table though it should be fine.

[Dewald Swanepoel]

Thanks guys. Some great advice. I'll trawl the archives a bit for workbench threads but thanks for the responses.

I like the idea of those leg levelers and it only makes sense to turn the support beams under the top and shelf on edge. Thanks.

I'm hoping to get stuck in this weekend and I'll be sure to post some pics of the progress.

Oh, and I'm based in Johannesburg, South Africa.

[Coop]

Thanks guys. Some great advice. I'll trawl the archives a bit for workbench threads but thanks for the responses.

I like the idea of those leg levelers and it only makes sense to turn the support beams under the top and shelf on edge. Thanks.

I'm hoping to get stuck in this weekend and I'll be sure to post some pics of the progress.

Oh, and I'm based in Johannesburg, South Africa.

That's just too cool. It's the first time I've ever heard someone's accent by just reading his words. And Dewald, I say that in a light hearted, well meaning way. Welcome Dude!

[wtnhighlander]

Dewald, you hav a good design for power tool work, but it may be a bit light for hand tool stuff. As for the wheels, I find them to be indispensable in my garage workshop. Mine are 5 inch diameter leftovers from my son's old scooter, and attached so that when the bench is level, they are just a hair off the floor. I lift one end of the bench, transferring the weight to the wheels, and roll it as needed.

Oh, my bench is all made of construction lumber as well, but the top is face-laminated 2x4s, so it is just over 3 inches thick. A great thickness for using a hold-fast and / or bench dogs.

[Tom Clark]

Dewald,

 

Your drawing is very close to one I built about 10 years ago. I built it as an assembly table, but it is still one of my favorite workbenches in the shop. My bench used about a half sheet of 3/4" plywood. The top is two layers of 3/4 MDF laminated together, and then covered with a 1/4" sheet of hard masonite. That makes a replaceable top. This bench is very solid, even on the wheels. Of course it would be even more solid without the wheels. Size is 40x80" 36" high.

[Dewald Swanepoel]

That's just too cool. It's the first time I've ever heard someone's accent by just reading his words. And Dewald, I say that in a light hearted, well meaning way. Welcome Dude!

Haha. Good thing you can't see my constant perplexed facial expression at all these English woodworking terms (I originally learned woodworking in my mother tongue of Afrikaans). But I'm getting there. Thank goodness for Google and Wikipedia.

 

 

As for the wheels, I find them to be indispensable in my garage workshop. Mine are 5 inch diameter leftovers from my son's old scooter, and attached so that when the bench is level, they are just a hair off the floor. I lift one end of the bench, transferring the weight to the wheels, and roll it as needed.

Oh, my bench is all made of construction lumber as well, but the top is face-laminated 2x4s, so it is just over 3 inches thick. A great thickness for using a hold-fast and / or bench dogs.

I like the idea of the wheels that are available when needed but don't permanently carry the weight of the bench. Face-laminated 2x4s sound like a wonderful surface. Wow. I'm afraid but I won't be able to go for that option though as it will require much more wood than I feel I'd like to spend money on for this project but mostly because I don't really have the tools to construct such a beast. Out of curiosity though, how would one go about doing that? I'd imagine that properly planed 2x4s would glue together nicely if you use enough clamps although I'd expect that you'd use a more heavy duty glue than ordinary cold glue? More importantly though, how do you get the surface smooth after the lamination is done?

 

That's just me being curious though. I won't be able to install such a decent benchtop just yet. Maybe something I could consider adding at a later stage.

 

 

Dewald,

 

Your drawing is very close to one I built about 10 years ago. I built it as an assembly table, but it is still one of my favorite workbenches in the shop. My bench used about a half sheet of 3/4" plywood. The top is two layers of 3/4 MDF laminated together, and then covered with a 1/4" sheet of hard masonite. That makes a replaceable top. This bench is very solid, even on the wheels. Of course it would be even more solid without the wheels. Size is 40x80" 36" high.

That's great stuff Tom, I like your table and it's pretty much exactly the kind of thing I have in mind. May I ask a few specific questions regarding your table and your experiences with it?

 

40x80" is just a little bigger than my plans (about 8 inch on both the long and the short sides). Does the size work well for you? Do you think I should consider increasing my size somewhat or would get by without too many headaches if yours were 8" shorter and narrower? I'm just a little concerned with floor space which I don't have an awful lot of.

 

Secondly, I can't see how you support your top and shelf but, in my design you'll notice those cross beams, two fro each surface. As per Chet's suggestion, I think I'll attach them on edge as opposed to on their faces as in my design. My question is, do you think 2 per surface will be enough or should I consider adding a third perhaps? I just don't want the surface to sag.

 

Finally, I'd just like to understand your top better. What exacty is 3/4 MDF? Is that three quarters of an inch? How do you laminate them together? You mention 1/4" hard masonite. Do you get different types of masonite such that some are harder than others or is masonite just masonite?

 

Thanks for all the help. I'm very keen to get busy on this. Roll on the weekend :-)

[wtnhighlander]

I like the idea of the wheels that are available when needed but don't permanently carry the weight of the bench. Face-laminated 2x4s sound like a wonderful surface. Wow. I'm afraid but I won't be able to go for that option though as it will require much more wood than I feel I'd like to spend money on for this project but mostly because I don't really have the tools to construct such a beast. Out of curiosity though, how would one go about doing that? I'd imagine that properly planed 2x4s would glue together nicely if you use enough clamps although I'd expect that you'd use a more heavy duty glue than ordinary cold glue? More importantly though, how do you get the surface smooth after the lamination is done?

How you construct the lamination depends on the tools available. I used a 6 inch jointer (powered) to flatten the faces of the boards and make the smooth. That didn't make the opposing faces parallel, but in this case it doesn't matter. I used ordinary wood glue ( Titebond II ), and lots of it. I glued each pair of boards together and let them dry, which minimized the need for long clamps. Then I glued each of the 2 board stacks in pairs. Then glued the two resulting slabs into the final piece, using blocks and wedges in place of clamps. I didn't have a power planer at the time, so I made a router sled that let me mill the surfaces flat with the router. A bit of hand planing to make it smooth, and it was ready to go.

My bench is only 22" wide and 48" long. I find that to be adequate, since I also have a light-duty work table, and in a pinch, my tablesaw that are all at the samw height. If I were making a lot of cabinets or other projects with sheet goods, I would want more surface, but for the things I build, it works great.

Here is a video of a similar bench:

2X6 Andre Roubo Workbench- Old-Timey Woodworking …: http://youtu.be/o7yF5av6MDM

and here is the WoodWhisperer explaining the router sled milling technique:

174 - Flattening Workbenches and Wide Boards With…: http://youtu.be/qtkBZHLJyD0

[Dewald Swanepoel]

Oh wow! How beautiful is that top! I won't be making this right now but I'd be lying if I said that I'm not massively envious. I'm definitely filing that router sled idea for future reference though.

[Tom Clark]

Here is photo of my frame, another bench with two layers of 3/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard) for a top. Very hard, very heavy, but will sag if not supported well. Sorry, not home, so can't take a closeup…

[DaveT]

Welcome Dewald, the method outlined by wtnhighlander is the one that I will be using to make my bench top (eventually). If you dont have access to a planer to flatten the faces of your timber have a look at this video from Paul Sellers. It is the first in a series he did on building a workbench and deals with preparing and laminating the top.

[Dewald Swanepoel]

As promised, I did take some pics. If you're interested, you can see it in Thanks for all the help.

[JoshC1501]

For what it's worth, I retro fitted an old bench similar to this last year to better fit my needs. I think you have enough supports underneath. A few thoughts for your design.

I laminated 2 pieces of 1/2 inch plywood sandwiched by 2 pieces of 3/4 inch mdf on the outside. If u are going to add a vise you really need something besides mdf in it. Mdf doesn't hold hardware very well. My top has stayed flat and is very heavy. I added a 1/4" piece of Masonite to the top as a sacrificial surface that can be replaced. I added some trim boards to keep the edges from getting dinged up.

It isn't any thing pretty to look at but it get the basic job done until I can build a proper woodworking bench. As I have been doing more hand tool work it's limitations are becoming more obvious but it has served me well. Picture is below. I used some of the ideas for the top lamination I got from from this article. Hope this helps.

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/206/heavy-duty-workbench.pdf

[..Kev]

That's a great looking bench Josh!

[ponderingturtle]

I am thinking about getting two sheets of OSB and one sheet of 1/8 hardboard laminated to gether then cut them in half and glue those together.  That should be pretty solid I think, of course I was intending on through bolts not lag screws to hold things like vices onto it.  Though from test results I have seen modern OSB seems to hold screws pretty well.  But a 2' by 8' bench sounds about right.

[..Kev]

If you plan on trimming out the edge, the OSB doesn't hold fasteners as well on the edge.  As well, OSB is less consistent in flatness which also could be an issue for you.

[ResidentEvil]

I made a bench very similar to what you are looking at. Here are a couple tips that I either did and like, or would do differently:

1. If you do wheels, just put two on one side so the legs are on the ground and you can lift one side to move it around. I put wheels on all four legs and have regretted it. Bench just moves around too much even when the wheels are locked.

2. For the top I did three layers. Bottom is plywood, next is MDF, and the top is thin Masonite like the pic in Joshc's post above. As the Masonite gets beat up I can peel it off and replace. Next time I replace the top I'm going to do something like Formica, so I can easily scrape off glue or any other types of spills.

3. I put oak edging around the top of the table. If you do this, make the edging the same thickness as the top. It makes it easier when you want to clamp things to the top.

4. May be obvious, but make its height equal to your table saw top or a hair shorter, you can use it for an outfeed table if you want.

5. Give a lot of consideration to the size. The right size will depend on what you plan to do with it, but I think that many people tend to go bigger than necessary. Mine is about 3.5 x 7', and in hindsight I really don't need that big of a table. It takes up a lot of shop space that I could be using for something else. If I had it to do over I'd make it about 30" x 60" and use swhorses and a piece of ply if I needed a bigger surface.

6. I wouldn't use OSB for the top for the reasons stated by others. Spend a few extra bucks and do ply or MDF.

That's about all I can think of. Good luck and keep us updated.

Andrew