stretch Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 My equipment has been in storage in my garage for near two years. The tops of equipment is heavily rusted. What is the best way to remove? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Stretch, I'd start w/ 60 grit paper and WD-40 and elbow geese. Then go with Scotch pads and WD-40 until you get to the good part of the steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Easiest vs Best, hmmmm I sand. Once the loose stuff is removed, I acid bath. For tops, I throw rags on it and soak the rags with a mild acid like vinegar. Badly rusted though could be a mess. You don't want to sand out deep pits. It might be wise to take it to a machine shop and have them lapped. It really depends on how much the tools are worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 I have used navel (naval?) jelly. It's a little messy but works OK and it won't eat your hide off. After you get as much as the jelly will remove then polish with fine steel wool. Worked for me. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 I used to use Naval jelly until I discovered "Evapo-rust". Evapo-rust is less messy, non toxic, no fumes, biodegradable, environmentally safe, and is quick. (How the heck does it work?) And can be purchased at your local automotive parts house. (At least that is where I got mine..... O'Riley's ) It has worked very well for me on a few small things. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwalter5110 Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Although I haven't personally used it, I have also heard evapo-rust is a very good (and safe) way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlinwi202 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Wire wheel in a grinder is what i typically use to get the heavy stuff off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 How do you contain Evaporust on something like a saw top? I've used Naval Jelly, slow but sure. Sent from my phone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 I restore old wood working machines as a side hobby. The answer to this question depends heavily on how bad the rust is. A machined surface like a tablesaw top or jointer beds needs to remain dead flat. Something as harsh as 60 grit sandpaper or a wire wheel will definitely remove a few thousandths of an inch of surface if left in any location more then a couple of seconds. They are perfectly acceptable solutions for machine bodies, but not so much for machined surfaces. If the machines were kept dry and not in a salt infested area (ie not near the beach) then even after 2 years you are only looking at surface rust. This can be easily removed with WD-40 and green scotch brite pads. It would literally take you like 20 minutes to clean up a tablesaw top with this combination. If the rusting has gotten worse you could move up to #000 steel wool. I have never bothered with it but a lot of folks like to use flat razor blades to scrape the rust off and this apparently works very well and preserves the flatness of your machined surfaces, probably not needed unless rust has started to pit the machine. I love evaporust but it can be messy to use on large pieces and tends to leave blackish stains behind on large flat surfaces like tablesaw tops. To apply it to such a big area I put down layers of paper towels as flat as possible and pour the evaporust overtop. Leave this for no more then 4 hours then remove. Unless the rust was really bad this will be enough. If you leave it over night it will seriously discolor your machined surface. It will get rid of the rust but you will have a motley looking top. The top will be discolored after only 4 hours, but it wont be nearly as bad. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bergin Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 I'm coming in a little late to this thread but here's my .02 cents based on experience in reconditioning old hand planes. The best way to remove rust is via electrolisis. Basic supplies you'll need: a plastic tub large enough to fit the top with at least 4in of clearence on all sides a piece of iron or steal plate to be used for the anode (I've used steal rods used in securing concrete forms) a box of "soda ash" or "baking soda a car battery charger "Scotch Bright" pads https://www.google.com/search?q=rust+removal+electrolysis&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb#rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&q=site:youtube.com+rust+removal+electrolysis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Procedure will depend partly on your definition of ‘heavily’ as well as other factors that can be explored later. Does the cast iron have heavy surface oxidation or has the matrix been compromised, ex, pitting? Heavy surface rust can be dealt with using one of several processes. Personally, I recommend this: http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-5-Gallon-P35C1.aspx. Its key to success is that it works slowly and in a controlled manor. Many folks actually increase damage by using one of the fast rust removers: Navel Jelly, Rust Free, et al -- these products work well, but their rapid action may leave an uneven surface. With Evapo, you can soak a part overnight, rinse, evaluate and simply return for another 12 hrs… It’s also excellent for antique hardware restoration – you get a really controlled reaction that you can monitor hour-by-hour and stop when you get exactly what you need. The electrolysis method can provide superior results, but will be more work to setup. For badly pitted items, I look at electrolysis, but I hit it with 12hrs of Evapo to see what I'm working with. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Wire brush the scaley stuff. Remove any burrs or scratches with a sanding block. Vacuum off the dust, then coat the heck out of it with Johnson's paste wax. Stains don't affect the cut quality. Even pits and scratches can be ignored, so long as the surface is flat, and slippery enough that the wood slides across it well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 The top comes off my UniSaw with just 4 bolts. While you have it off to remove the rust you can clean up the mechanism and lube the gears. I use white lithium grease sparingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 While Lithium Soap (grease) is still sold, the basic soap/oil emulsion survives on name only and has been largely irreverent since the '50s... It provides basic moisture protection, so it's used for things like garage doors (a bad idea) and some automotive, farm eqpt, etc applications... Every homeowner has a can, so it does get used around the house for lawn eqpt, etc. There are some specialty oil/soap combos for mid-temp applications, but these are rare... Dry Molly(also used sparingly) will work quite a bit better and, more importantly, attracts less dust/gunk/etc. Perfect for trunnions, chain-based router lifts, etc -- http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=03084. The moly sold today is an improved version of the original molybdenum disulphide formulations (which had mixed results). Today's formulations add-in a bit of PTFE (Teflon) for good measure... On downside, Moly can stain badly. So backstop your target area to capture over-spray... A paper towel behind the trunnion is fine. Or spray onto a surface and use an acid brush to transfer (my method). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Elsewhere I read a suggestion to apply shellac to cast iron tops for better protection than wax alone. Thoughts? Sent from my phone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Well, it's a fine sealer and nice clear film finish and the durability will be great --- until you run your first stick... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Well, it's a fine sealer and nice clear film finish and the durability will be great --- until you run your first stick... Shellac is a better sealer and far more durable than wax. Top coated with paste wax for lubrication it should last quite awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Have to ponder this one for a while… In restoration work, shellac is used to seal decorative ironwork, fittings, hardware, etc prior to a durable clear coat. The process leverages shellac’s two best properties: universal barrier & universal sealer. (OK, not universal, but don’t want to get picky). Restoring vintage iron work can be a trick because it frequently contains contaminants that would normally interfere with topcoats. I suppose the basic question is: since you’re going to top coat with paste wax anyway, what value does the shellac addd for this application. A single-process micro-crystalline wax may do it in one go. I did spend a few minutes on Google for this application, and only found the technique mentioned in single thread over on LJ… So it's far from common practice... I could talk-myself into an application involving a heavily contaminated table top, but not so sure for less-contaminated surfaces.. Just not sure what benefit the shellac offers over other treatments. As a quick/dirty, I could get a rattle can of Bin and something like T9 and go side-by-side with a topcoat of wax… May just try this to satisfy my curiosity… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I used to use Boeshield and it was good, probably a little better than wax. The benefit I would hope to gain from shellac is more durability than wax alone and a better moisture barrier. We've had a lot of rain this year and it's the first time in 15 years I've had rust issues. Also I always have shellac in the shop so it's one less thing I have to buy. Sent from my phone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Shellac may also help fill in scratches and pits from the rust removal process. I wouldn't really count on wax alone as a protective coating, but it will lubricate the surface so that your workpiece glides smoothly, even if the table is less that perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otis Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Putting any film finish on top may be asking for trouble. Eventually it's going to chip and wear and probably not be level anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otis Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Fine woodworking did a test on a bunch of rust presenters and CRC-3-36 was the best. It's on amazon and really cheap too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 I don't mind a bit of "patina" on my cast iron surfaces. As long as they stay flat and don't contaminate the work. If a cleaning is necessary I'll carefully use some steel wool but for the most part I rely on regular applications of paste wax. What constitutes "regular" you ask? When the surface doesn't feel slick, when I've had to clean up after dripping sweat all over it, when the tool has sat unused for a longer period of time and when I think of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 <Fine woodworking did a test on a bunch of rust presenters and CRC-3-36 was the best> CRC 336 is a great product and you'll find many here who use it... CRC offers quite a few formulations that also offer some distinct benefits -- it's worth visiting their website just to see the myriad of corrosion products... However, that FWW study was roundly critized for poor methadology, methods, etc... In short, it was a crap article, but managed to salvage itself by recomending some good products... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodsh Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 This string has kind of moved on from the original topic so this may be a little late but for what it's worth I've used Evapo-rust (which works great) but also rust erasers from Lee Valley to remove rust from hand planes. The rust erasers work surprisingly well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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