Jewelry Box (per the latest WW video)


wouldwurker

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Sorry, I missed your last line  about the bowing.  

 

CW is right, it shouldn't have bowed like that but, you are where you are.

 

Since it's one of the long sides that bowed, you could scribe and cut the lid to fit it and claim to all those that don't know than you meant to do that.. ;)

 

Or, depending on how bad the bow is, you could flatten

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Should I assume that the bow in the back would screw up the hinge action? That's crucial to know. Thanks!

I'm really not crazy about the handle. It seems counterintuitive to have a large handle in the top middle of something that's hinged from the back. Naturally, I think you'd want to grab it from both ends in the front and lift. Leaving the sides and front proud should draw in the user to do that (like a hope chest).

Plus, a large handle suggests that it should be carried. Without a lock, that would end in disaster. Of course, these are just my thoughts. Plus, I don't want anything to take away from he birds eye maple.

By the way, what does it mean to 'scribe the bow'? That's a new term for me. Thanks!

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Question about the breadboards.  Are they necessary?  I ask because:

 

1. I'm dealing with 5/16" stock which will still need a little clean up in the planer. Getting really thin for joinery, even with the 4x20 dominos.

2. The end grain on the birds eye maple is absolutely gorgeous, almost iridescent.  I'd hate to cover it up if I don't have to.

3. If I opt for the lid to be 1/2" proud in the front and sides and skip the handle, am I ok  as long as it doesn't shrink less than flush?

4. Tuesday is drop-dead day, and I'm panicking!

 

Thanks all - really appreciate the input.  --VJ

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Question about the breadboards. Are they necessary? I ask because:

1. I'm dealing with 5/16" stock which will still need a little clean up in the planer. Getting really thin for joinery, even with the 4x20 dominos.

2. The end grain on the birds eye maple is absolutely gorgeous, almost iridescent. I'd hate to cover it up if I don't have to.

3. If I opt for the lid to be 1/2" proud in the front and sides and skip the handle, am I ok as long as it doesn't shrink less than flush?

4. Tuesday is drop-dead day, and I'm panicking!

Thanks all - really appreciate the input. --VJ

You don't have to use breadboards. But just know the chances of them staying perfectly straight and flat reduces without them.

You are ok with leaving them proud. ½" should be good but I don't know where you live and what the humidity difference is throughout the year.

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You could always add batten strips across the top if if cups too much. You could add 2 walnut batten strips on top and screw them from below. Slot the outer holes to allow for seasonal changes and use some nice brass round head screws. Finish all the parts separately and wax the bottom of the batten strip before you screw it down.

Or you could put the batten strips on the underside of the lid where they would fit inside the box, but 5/16 isn't a lot to screw into and slotted screws exposed on top might not look so good.

Or make the lid wider by using 3/4" thick by 1" wide batten strips with a 5/16 slot for the lid.

Another approach would be to use the 5/16 panel in a frame and hinge that to the box.

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