..Kev Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Nice splines! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Trimmed. One long side bowed like heck in the last 24 hours. I'm thinking of skipping the lid handle now and making it proud by about a half inch on the sides and front. Should hopefully distract from the bowed side of the box It shouldn't have bowed glued up like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Sorry, I missed your last line about the bowing. CW is right, it shouldn't have bowed like that but, you are where you are. Since it's one of the long sides that bowed, you could scribe and cut the lid to fit it and claim to all those that don't know than you meant to do that.. Or, depending on how bad the bow is, you could flatten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 I agree with Tiods, you should make the bowed side the front. Scribe the bow on the lid, cut, and incorporate it into the design. Either way, don't loose the handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ..Kev Posted August 11, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Many times with woodworking, the art of recovery is more important than all the planning and anticipation you can possibly do. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Should I assume that the bow in the back would screw up the hinge action? That's crucial to know. Thanks! I'm really not crazy about the handle. It seems counterintuitive to have a large handle in the top middle of something that's hinged from the back. Naturally, I think you'd want to grab it from both ends in the front and lift. Leaving the sides and front proud should draw in the user to do that (like a hope chest). Plus, a large handle suggests that it should be carried. Without a lock, that would end in disaster. Of course, these are just my thoughts. Plus, I don't want anything to take away from he birds eye maple. By the way, what does it mean to 'scribe the bow'? That's a new term for me. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 The bow would work much better on the front. Yes, it would create issues with the hinge if the hinge is placed on the bow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Whew. Glad I asked. Thanks guys. For $32 hinges, I'd hate to screw them up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Of course that depends on the hinges, how bad the bow is, etc.. Easiest to have the bow on the front tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 You could use a 1/4" or 1/2" block and trace the curve on the underside of the lid. Then you would have a handle/lip and a graceful curve that looks like it was supposed to be there. Hide in plain sight, make it a feature ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Trying to find the best grain pattern for the lid. Thinking I want to highlight the Rorschach bookmatch right in the middle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Certainly a personal preference. In the end, from the pictures I don't think you can go wrong! Some beautiful pieces! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Question about the breadboards. Are they necessary? I ask because: 1. I'm dealing with 5/16" stock which will still need a little clean up in the planer. Getting really thin for joinery, even with the 4x20 dominos. 2. The end grain on the birds eye maple is absolutely gorgeous, almost iridescent. I'd hate to cover it up if I don't have to. 3. If I opt for the lid to be 1/2" proud in the front and sides and skip the handle, am I ok as long as it doesn't shrink less than flush? 4. Tuesday is drop-dead day, and I'm panicking! Thanks all - really appreciate the input. --VJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Many times with woodworking, the art of recovery is more important than all the planning and anticipation you can possibly do. i have to find a way to recover everything i touch, so i gots that goin fer me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Question about the breadboards. Are they necessary? I ask because: 1. I'm dealing with 5/16" stock which will still need a little clean up in the planer. Getting really thin for joinery, even with the 4x20 dominos. 2. The end grain on the birds eye maple is absolutely gorgeous, almost iridescent. I'd hate to cover it up if I don't have to. 3. If I opt for the lid to be 1/2" proud in the front and sides and skip the handle, am I ok as long as it doesn't shrink less than flush? 4. Tuesday is drop-dead day, and I'm panicking! Thanks all - really appreciate the input. --VJ You don't have to use breadboards. But just know the chances of them staying perfectly straight and flat reduces without them. You are ok with leaving them proud. ½" should be good but I don't know where you live and what the humidity difference is throughout the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 You could always add batten strips across the top if if cups too much. You could add 2 walnut batten strips on top and screw them from below. Slot the outer holes to allow for seasonal changes and use some nice brass round head screws. Finish all the parts separately and wax the bottom of the batten strip before you screw it down. Or you could put the batten strips on the underside of the lid where they would fit inside the box, but 5/16 isn't a lot to screw into and slotted screws exposed on top might not look so good. Or make the lid wider by using 3/4" thick by 1" wide batten strips with a 5/16 slot for the lid. Another approach would be to use the 5/16 panel in a frame and hinge that to the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 I'll have to look up Batten Strips. Could I use exposed flush cut dowels in lieu of screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Outer attachment of a batten or a breadboard needs to be able to move and resist the cupping. Only the center of a breadboard or batten can be fixed, this lets the panel expand and contract equally on both edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Gotcha, so like a bread board, but atop or below, instead of edge to edge, but still fixed in the middle only? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Like this? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Yep, fixed in the middle but slotted on the outer screws. Leave about 1/8 room for expansion and contraction start the screws in the middle of the slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 I think I got it. Similar to using the wider mortise setting on one side with a domino? (Sorry) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Edge glue up time on the bookmatch. Love me some Domino... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Clamp overkill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 No such thing Hope you got some packing tape on those cauls so they don't stick to your top.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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