ajkezele Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Does anyone know if they exist and/or where I can find them? I need a flush mount with some hardware and these protrude a little bit. Unfortunately I already pre-drilled all the holes so I can't go down to #8. Figured I'd throw this out there before I start filing down the heads that are causing me problems. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 I would epoxy a dowel patch or similar and re-drill. Filing has to be done do very carefully to get consistent results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 If the recess in the hardware is meant for a #8, I doubt you can file a # 10 down far enough and still have slots for the screw driver. I agree w/ Shaffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Chuck a screw in a drill, and spin it while you grind the diameter of the head down. You can use a bench grinder, or even a hand held 4-1/2" grinder. I've done it with TORX drive lag screws, so I'm sure it would also work with a #10. Of course, you'll need to countersink a little deeper. If you have enough wood, I'd go deep enough to plug the hole. Otherwise, the dowel and redrill is a good plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 If plugging is the route, sure. I would vote for that. But since there is hardware involved, I assume these heads will show. I would not grind a screw I am matching to hardware unless the hardware is non-standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Thanks everyone...the hardware actually will not show as it is bed post hardware that I'm using to put together a crib. The hardware has male and female pieces which will hold the two side panels to the front and back. Unfortunately the little the screws are protruding from the hardware is making it difficult to assemble in a way where the panels are flush with each other. Luckily I noticed this after dry fitting one side and switched to #8 screws which worked much better on the other side. As it stands right now I can still get it all together but I'm worried that once I apply the finish the fit will become even tighter and at that point I won't be able to pound it into submission without damaging the final product. The plug and dowel could work but I think if I go that route then filing the heads down a bit will probably end up being faster anyways. I've done it to one or two screws and there is still plenty of slot left for the screwdriver to grab onto to drive it in. All that said, is it safe to assume that no one knows of any "shallow" flat head #10 screws that would essentially be the same thing as filing them down a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Just glue a piece of wooden skewer into each hole and use the #8 screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Can you counter sink the holes in the hardware a little deeper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phinds Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Does anyone know if they exist and/or where I can find them? Yes, they exist. Google "trim screw". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Trim screws almost always exclude a countersink bevel at the number ten size. Again I state my opinion, when screwing into hardware, re-drill the hardware or use the correct screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phinds Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Trim screws almost always exclude a countersink bevel at the number ten size. Again I state my opinion, when screwing into hardware, re-drill the hardware or use the correct screw. I wasn't aware of that but I did some poking around and (as you already knew) you're certainly right. Thanks for pointing that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 This an obsessive trait that I have learned to follow after experiencing severe setbacks. Early on in the project I will recommend checking the screw bevel in the countersink. I have had door manufacturers ship screws that did not seat properly in their strike plates. For this I drilled the strike plates because the screw finish matched the plate finish. To the OP, if your screw is hidden go ahead and grind it. Just be careful like has already been mentioned to not lose the ability to drive or remove the screw. To phinds, my hasty comment from before reads as more snarky than I intended. I apologize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 If you grind the screws and heat them up it will soften them. Snap off a head and the world of pain increases. Glue in toothpicks, skewers etc and use the #8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 If you have a Tormek, you can skip the worry about grinding down. I'm not going to recommend a $300 tool for a $0.50 fix, though. I've gone the route of the skewers, toothpicks, and really fine dowels. It held for a while, but I found the best approach (for my need, which is not yours) was to drill out and dowel. Again, my need is not yours. I had a lot more weight on the screws than you will have on that crib... child included. You can find a lifetime supply of skewers in the kitchen.... assuming someone doesn't think they're cooking supplies first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Thanks to all for the input...if I were to plug it with glue and a dowel/skewer how long should I let it "setup" before re-drilling for the number 8? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 I usually just give it overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phinds Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Depends somewhat on how easily you want to be able to remove the screw. The problem is that glue deep down in a small diameter hole dries at the top easily but can stay uncured for longer down lower so if you screw it in too quickly, you may get glue adhering to the bottom of the screw & making it harder to remove the screw. I'm basing that on my experience w/ plain old yellow glue. Other glues may cure more readily down lower in the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Would CA glue be better than PVA glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 If you were in a hurry it might. I never use CA very often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Perfect...overnight I can certainly do and even if it isn't dry completely I doubt I will be needing to remove the screws once it is fully assembled. Would plugging the #10 holes with a very thin dowel or a skewer be sufficient or should I drill it out and put in an oversized dowel so that I have more actual wood to drill into? I think I know what would be better but would the former option do the same thing? Thanks again to everyone for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 "you can never have too much pepperoni on your pizza or own too many clamps" phinds, Pepperoni, YUK, substitute jalapenos on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Oversize too much and you are just screwing into end grain which may or may not be ok for your application. I try to keep it small enough that the threads are catching the glue saturated wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phinds Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 . I never use CA very often. I on the other hand often use it never. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Oversize too much and you are just screwing into end grain which may or may not be ok for your application. I try to keep it small enough that the threads are catching the glue saturated wood. Good point...I didn't really think about the fact that the dowels would just be end grain. Small dowels it is. I think I originally used 3/4" #10 screws but the piece could easily handle 1" screws so I may go that route with the #8's just for some added strength. Thanks again to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajkezele Posted August 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Sorry to keep coming back to this issue but would DAP's plastic wood work for plugging the holes more completely/flush before redrilling? I looked it up on Amazon and it seems to have good reviews so I was wondering if this would be a cleaner/easier fix than having to cut/trim dowels and set with glue. Any experience with this product? Again everything will be covered with hardware and eventually painted so the overall aesthetic of the fix isn't much of an issue. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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