Flathead #10 wood screws with smaller head?


ajkezele

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I would not on a wood filler holding screws. If you are changing the hole locations, no harm done. If you are still trying to recreate, I would find a better way.

 

Okay, I guess I will stick with the dowel and wood glue then since that seemed to be the most popular fix. 

 

The only question I had with that is if I should still pre-drill the hole again for the number 8 screws?  Will that not just drill out the majority/all of the dowel leaving me with just the glue?

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When I have doubts, I test. I would find a scrap, a skewer, and both drill bits. Pre drill 10, plug, pre drill 8, and stick a claw hammer on the screw. Next to that pre drill an 8 into a non-patched area. Test the two screws against each other. If you aren't pleased with the results, then reevaluate.

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If you're really worried about holding power of a dowel, you can always get a plug cutter and make a dowel where the grain runs side to side and you're drilling into the face grain. Coat it with a light coat of glue and let dry BEFORE you put it into the hole with more glue and you can be sure the dowel will hold AND the screw will hold.

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To add more confusion to the mix....

 

Wood Magazine recently had a tip about using a zip tie to fill an oversized hole... the screw bites into the softer nylon and stays better, according to the tip.

 

In this instance, though, I'd still plug with a dowel and redrill.  I did that for a door because all the other attempts at just using skewers or toothpicks (or different sized screws) gave out.  Glad I did, because the door's still holding.  On something low use, I'd be tempted to try to "shim it," as my father might say.  But if you're going to use it often, or it's going to be visible, I'd plug with a dowel and redrill.  It's the closest I can get to a do-over without paying for another board (cost or time).

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