Building a garden gate


TerryMcK

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Isn't it amazing the things that lazy/inexperienced people do to avoid doing things the right way? I hate that you wound up with all that extra labor, but, I'm glad that you were able to correct it before something painful happened!

   I can assure you that we're as ready for the gate as the gate is ready to hang around!

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I am eager to see the finished gate. I hope to make a gate some day to replace the double chainlink that keeps our corgis in the back yard. We have a "C" shaped drive that leads to both the garage and the shop and across the front yard. The boss lady wants the driveway removed from the shop and across the front yard. We never go out that way and always use the new drive and the shorter route. 

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King Terry, I shall call you Wemmick from this day forward.

 

Please sir, I want to see some more.

 

Yes, I am mixing characters.  So shoot me.

 

If you insist :)

 

Got to agree though, this is another highly informative and addictive thread. Long live King Terry!

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I did Dave - Judy must have set some sort of subliminal message in my brain. Just finished the structured cabling and testing the internet. So it's working OK. However I'm losing daylight here and don't think there is going to be enough time before sundown to fit the gate.

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I didn't have enough stock to make the hinge post from one piece so ended up glueing 3 pieces together to get the required rough dimensions.
The whole assembly was laminated together.
1-IMG_0931-001.JPG
 
After the epoxy had cured the post was cut to length and the rainwater run-off angle cut on the top.
My 10" table saw is not quite big enough to be able to take a cut this deep so I broke out the cross cut tenon saw.
 
1-IMG_0933.JPG

 

I had also designed a decorative top to each of the posts so using a combination of hand saw and block plane the bevels/chamfers were cut.

 

1-IMG_0934.JPG

 

Bevels marked out

 

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Using a block plane to cut the bevels

 

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Finished bevel

 

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Finished hinge post.

 

Template
The next thing to make was a template from the brickwork that shows the position of the mortar courses in between the bricks. This was one job that I didn't want to drill holes in the mortar as there will be a lot of weight on the fixings. I wanted to get the fixing holes right into the middle of the bricks.
 
There are several factors to take into consideration when positioning the fixings:
 
  • Drill on the centre line of a brick
  • Make sure the hinge plate fixings don't foul the hinge post fixings
  • Counterbore for the heads of the bolts.
  • The bottom of the new gate had to be in exactly the same position as the original gate. It could be slightly higher but no lower as the gate may scrape the path when opened.
 
This is what I mean by fouling shown in a Xray Sketchup image:
 
NonFouling.JPG
 
The fixing bolt is shown with a counterbored top. The screw hole to fix the hinge brackets are shown running underneath so as not to foul the fixing bolt.

 

This was taken into consideration when marking out and drilling the template. This was just made from some 1/4" ply I had lying around.

 

1-IMG_1050.JPG

 

The template was stuck to the back side of the post and a 10mm (3/8") pilot hole bored all the way through. Then the template was removed and the counter-bore drilled with a forstner bit on the opposing face.
 
This is not what you would normally do as it is easier to drill the counter-bore first as it leaves a brad guide hole for the main drill to go through. As I am using the template as a guide for the masonry bit too I wanted to ensure the holes lined up.  If I had used the template on the "bolt" face (where the counterbores are) as the post is so thick there was a chance that it could drill offline or at an angle. This is despite the fact that I was using a drill press. 
 
If you want to use this method in your work then: 
  • First of all drill the holes all the way through.
  • Turn the work over and then insert the drill slightly into the hole.
  • Clamp the workpiece down to the bed of the drill press.
  • Remove the drill by opening the chuck wide enough to allow the drill to tip at an angle.
  • Insert the forstner bit.
As the work has not moved the axis of the spindle is still perfectly aligned with the centre of the hole. Hence the forstner bit will also be on the centre of the hole. The counter-bore was sufficient to get a suitable socket in to tighten the bolt.
 
1-IMG_1039.JPG
 
Socket clearance
 
1-IMG_1047.JPG
 
Socket in situ
 
Next I opened each hole up to 13mm (1/2") to give some clearance to the bolts and therefore some allowance for misalignment.
The final thing to do was to apply several layers of finish (including the holes).
 
This process was followed exactly to produce the striker post. The only difference is that only 2 mounting bolt holes were drilled. The striker post takes no weight at all.
 
 
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So after a few months of work every now and then (my day job gets in the way!) here it is gate fans.

 

This is the final part of the build. The gate is done.
 
Fitting the hardware was easy as drilling pilot holes for the stainless steel fasteners was easy enough to do. This is oak and as you may know it eats mild steel for breakfast. You find that mild steel leaves black marks on oak over a period of time outside with the tannins in the oak reacting with the iron in the steel. Stainless steel on the other hand has no such issues.
The hinges were first to be fitted, the hinge brackets were then positioned with enough clearance on one of them to enable expansion/contraction of the wood and metal.
 
I use a Vix bit to centre drill each of the the hinge fastening holes.
 
1-IMG_1051.JPG
 
Vix bit used to centre drill the holes in the hinge bracket.

 

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Positioning one end of the strap hinge.

 

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The same measurement was used to position the other end of the strap hinge.
 
The upper hinge is shown here but the photographs are upside down for clarity. THe same process was used on the lower hinge.
 
1-IMG_1057.JPG
 
Adding the self closing spring.
 
Now comes onto the actual gate fitting itself. Here is a picture of what is being replaced. I think it must be 25 to 30 years old and is made from softwood. It has been painted many, many times and was way past it's sell by date. Not a good advertisement for a woodworkers house I'm sure you will agree.
 
1-IMG_1058.JPG
 
Old faithful before going to the dump for burial.
 
After a lot of work with a wrecking bar to remove the old posts I drilled the holes for the new posts and inserted the 10mm (3/8") anchor bolts. Then the door was hung. The striker post was machined on the jointer slightly on the back side as it just needed another 1/8" taking off. I recoated the exposed wood with finish and hung the striker post. Then the self closing latch was fitted, the spring tensioned and the job was done.  
 
1-IMG_1059.JPG
 
The path and the road both slope. It is an optical illusion. The gate is level. My makers mark, done with my branding iron, is top right.
 
1-IMG_1063-001.JPG

 

And here it is in all its glory.
 
This has been a fun project but time consuming. I started it way back in August working on it a couple of hours here, a couple of hours there, odd days at weekends and here we are at the end of November with the finished product.
I should like to thank my wife Elly for being really supportive on this project and hope people enjoy it when they walk through it. The gate weighs 74 pounds with all the hardware, doesn't need a jockey wheel and shuts with a satisfying clunk.
 
I hope everybody has enjoyed the journal postings too. I maintain a personal blog where everything I'm doing is recorded - not just this - I update it frequently.
 
Now the next thing to do is go clean my shop ready for the next project. Cutting boards for Christmas anybody?
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Beautiful !

It's been a great project to follow along. This is a great example of woodwork done to a level that few could afford to have done. The materials alone must have cost more than most folks think a front gate costs.

Did you put a date on it? That could amaze someone many years from now.

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Beautiful !

It's been a great project to follow along. This is a great example of woodwork done to a level that few could afford to have done. The materials alone must have cost more than most folks think a front gate costs.

Did you put a date on it? That could amaze someone many years from now.

Yes indeed I did Steve. It's on the underside of the lower rail. Covered over with clear finish for posterity.

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