rgdaniel Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 Hi folks, I have a Delta 17" drill press, floor standing, been solid and dependable for 5 years or so. Lately though I've started to notice what I guess you call runout. My 7mm pen blank holes are probably closer to 8mm, making gluing in the brass tubes problematic, for example. I'm not much of a machinist, just learning the minimum to maintain my machines as needed, but if there is anything simple-ish I can do to deal with this, I'd appreciate any tips.Thanks in advance! Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Replacing bearings comes to mind. I hope they are a stock standard size cause Delta has a horrible reputation for parts these days. I do a lot of my own repairs but I have never taken the quill out of a drill press to replace the bearings. It might take a machine shop to press the bearings on and off the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlinwi202 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Is the problem on the bit? If not it is probably a good idea to start with bearings. You might be able to find a parts schematic to see if it is an easy task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 There are numerous videos on YouTube covering this topic in detail. You'll need a dial-indicator w/ magnetic base -- these are usually around $35. Very useful around the shop. You'll need to measure several points on the quill/chuck/etc assembly - YouTube is your friend. Once you know what's out of whack, we can tell you how to proceed... It's 95% the bearings -- especially if you've been using the DP as an improvised spindle sander (a really bad practice). Depending on the design of the DP, this can be really easy --- or not really easy, but it's definitely not hard (except for the totally mechanically inept)... If it's easy, you just need access to a puller -- you're local garage mechanic is your friend. Depending on design, you may need access to a bearing press -- again, your local garage can do it... Before I had a puller, my local garage didn't even charge me... I slipped him $20 for his trouble, he only took $10... There is a third possibility -- some DPs use a bearing setup that needs some specialized kit... Your garage might not have it... Then it's off to the machine shop. I'm sure some YouTube video covers this case... Note: you can get an OK slide-hammer puller kit for $50 - $99... You can get a really awesome highly-configurable puller setup from Snap-on for about $750... Or you can get one from HF for $19.95... Don't get one from HF... BTW: pullers are also really useful to have around the shop... The OK-level kits (say $99), include a slide-hammer puller and gear puller assembly -- if you happen to do your own lawn equipment maintenance as well as shop maintenance, then it's a handy thing to have around... You won't use it often, but when you do -- it'll pay for itself in one afternoon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgdaniel Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 [...] Depending on the deign of the DP, this can be really easy --- or not really easy, but it's definitely not hard (except for the totally mechanically inept)...[...] Based on everything else you said, I guess I'm in the "totally mechanically inept" category... I guess I need to -a- try with other drill bits, then -b- call a guy. Sucks to be me, I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Actually there is something really simple to try first. Most drill presses have a jacobs taper chuck installed. Meaning the actual chuck of the drill press is just pressure fitted into the press and held there by kind thoughts and a very precise machined fit. Occasionally (especially in machines that have been used a lot) the taper will become ever so slightly loose such that it will go in slightly crooked. To fix this problem you just need to whack it with a hammer. Seriously. All you do is lower the table so its not in the way, get a hammer, and rest a piece of wood on the chuck (rest the chuck on the end grain works best) then whack the other side of the wood with the hammer. This will reseat the taper better in the mortise and fix most runout problems. It could be bearings, but honestly 10 years seems pretty short for the life of modern bearings unless you are using this press 24/7/365. Here is a video of removing and replacing the chuck. You probably do not need to remove yours. Just make sure you retract the chuck jaws before hitting it with the hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgdaniel Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 That's helpful, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 <but honestly 10 years seems pretty short for the life of modern bearings unless you are using this press 24/7/365> You're right, 10 years is too short but.... I've seen too many woodworkers use the DP as a spindle sander and blow right through bearing sets... Could be the arbor, arbor seat, chuck, et al.... but kind of figured if the seating was the issue, it'd come loose before you'd notice runout. But certainty worth a try... It's about the only zero $$ problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgdaniel Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 I've seen too many woodworkers use the DP as a spindle sander and blow right through bearing sets... I have done that from time to time... blame it on Woodsmithshop... ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4-Square Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 <I have done that from time to time...> yea, many do it from time to time... If only used this way occasionally and keeping pressure low is really not that bad... But the DP was not really designed to take lateral pressure, so effort must be takes to keep lateral forces to a minimum. I suppose it's the spindle/disk mfgs that irk me... Nowhere in their sales literature does it mention that DPs are not designed for lateral stresses and using sanding drums may (read as will) shorten the life of spindle bearing set... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Could be the arbor, arbor seat, chuck, et al.... but kind of figured if the seating was the issue, it'd come loose before you'd notice runout. The first time I heard this to solve a run-out issue I was having I thought the same thing. But really you do not need much before you get runout. If the end of the taper is 1/10th of a millimeter off then that is more then enough to get noticeable runout by the time you get to the end of a drill bit. Anyway it worked for me and quite a few other folks online. Its a common technique over on the Old Wood Working Machines forum (owwm.org) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgdaniel Posted August 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 Is the problem on the bit? DING DING DING We have a winner!! I had been doing some tests with other bits, but only in soft wood, so inconclusive. Got a new 7mm bit today and it sped through an acrylic blank like, well, like a brand new drill bit. So that's a good thing. Thanks to all who responded, I learned a few things. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlinwi202 Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Glad you got it figured out. Drill press rebuilds are still fun for what its worth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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