4-Square Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Final thought -- figure where your flat screen will reside. Wire the string of T5s/T8s in front of the flat screen on a separate wall switch. This comes in handy when you declare a 'sharpening afternoon' and just want to watch the game while sharpening... Eliminating the glare from that first string of lighting goes a long way to improve your shop's multi-media viewing... BTW: safety tip: orient the screen so that it's at your back for the majority of power tool operations... You don't want to be distracted by Cheerleaders while ripping stock.. There's a wood joke in here somewhere, but I'll pass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerboss Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Estesbubba, Lots of good advice here. One thing I would add would be GFCI receptacles. Most equipment works just fine, some may false trip the device so you may have to remove it. 12 gauge / 20 amp circuits are preferred and keep your lighting separate from your power. Keep the runs as short as possible and if extension cords are used make sure they also are 12 gauge. The number of circuits is a function of how much will be running at the same time, not the number of receptacles on the line. Think total possible load and go to 80%. Don't run circuits with excessive amperage. If the nameplate rating of a tool is over 20 amps use a dedicated circuit for that tool. The motor will have a running load and a locked rotor load, that can be 6 times higher. Don’t size to the LRA. As others have said it is easier now than latter so put in all you can dream of. Running several runs of conduit is better than over sizing a run. The more wires in a pipe the more you have to derate the ampacity. When running pipe you can share the neutral, just remember to tie the breakers together. Nothing hurts worse than getting between a loaded neutral and ground!! Take it from a recovering master electrician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 All 120 circuits have GFCI as the first outlet as code requires it. Everything downstream from it are standard which are still protected. All 120 circuits are 20 amp and the ones next to each other are on separate circuits. Every wall has at least 2 120 circuits and at least 1 240 circuit. I still plan on adding a few ceiling outlets for the big machinery. I also have lights on 2 20 amp circuits. Here are some pics of how the walls are configured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerboss Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 If the GFCI gives you trouble you are allowed a single non GFCI receptacle that is dedicated to the equipment. Remember, that is single, not the duplex receptacles we typically use. The shop is looking great!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 If the GFCI gives you trouble you are allowed a single non GFCI receptacle that is dedicated to the equipment. Remember, that is single, not the duplex receptacles we typically use. The shop is looking great!!! Well most outlets will probably be used for equipment. So if it does give me trouble and I replace it with a single non GFCI, what am I supposed to do with the outlets on the load side? Of course I hope I never have to worry about this and the GFCI behaves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerboss Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 You have what would be called an accessory building. There are only 8 places where GFCI protection is required. 2014 NEC 210.8 ( Other than dwelling units. Bathrooms Rooftops Kitchens Outdoors Sinks (within 6 feet) Indoor wet locations Locker rooms with showering facilities Garage service bays You are putting in GFCI receptacles for your own peace of mind, not code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 You can't go wrong with a name like beerboss 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 I think local code requires GFCI for detached buildings, but even if it doesn't, I'm at least meeting code. So I didn't see a need for any 220 30 amp sockets. I don't have a welder in my future and don't see any WW machines down the road that would need over 20 amps. I guess if it does happen I can always run conduit or swim through the attic insulation. My Grizzly cyclone will require a 40 amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerboss Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Is any of your equipment convertible to 240 V? Some larger motors have the ability to be wired for 240V, I would take that option if it were available. It was mentioned earlier in this thread to balance the load. Tough to do in a one man shop with p\primarily 120V circuits but putting the heavy loads on 240V will do that, lessen the amperage per leg and reduce voltage drop during start up as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Everything that can run on 220 does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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