Giant torsion box Console Table


wouldwurker

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Remember this nightmare? From April?

I vowed to not start anything new until I get all unfinished projects out of my shop. So here I am, back to the MDF nightmare.

If you recall , the 'designers' doing my living room said they wanted this:

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4.5 inches thick, 80 inches long, and 3 feet high....and no center supports or stretchers.

Not practical or cost efficient to use that much lumber, and the forum consensus was to build 3 separate torsion boxes. So I was underway.

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I added the ruler for sense of scale.

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Lots of wood putty, CA glue, sanding, mdf dust, misery, sanding, dust, hand planing, misery, dust.

Seams to fill, nail gun pops to fill, countersunk particle board screw holes to fill, sand, fill, sand, seal, sand, glue, sand, cough.

This table wasn't meant for this world.

Anyway, more sanding and filling. After all this work, I can't have a single visible flaw.

Almost prepped for 50/50 titebond and water staging. Then some oil-primer.

I can't wait to get this monstrosity out of my shop!

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Slathered on the glue sizing (equal parts water and titebond) on one of the legs last night. Dried clean, and feels pretty coarse. I'll hit it with some light sanding tonight and get it ready for oil-based primer.

It felt so counterintuitive to brush on a water solution to the MDF :blink: , but from the sound it, this is a tried and true method.

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Need some guidance on sanding after the glue sizing treatment, as I don't want to sand off the coating.

I had it down to 220 before I sized it and it was baby butt smooth. It's pretty rough now...feels like sandpaper actually.

Am I getting it super smooth again, or just giving it a light once over before the primer goes on?

Thanks. Really Appreciate the help...first time trying this. :(

VJ

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You are mostly trying to seal the deeper layers and edges so with 220 grit you have quite a bit of leeway. Just be careful near corners and edges. You can sand the major flat areas until they are very smooth with little chance of harm. It's when you get near edges and corners that a moment of carelessness can be harmful. This level of caution applies to sanding between coats of sanding sealer over stain as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

This thing again....

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Two coats of oil based primer applied (thanks pop!) and ready for the oil based paint.

Now, I don't have a sprayer....just using a super smooth roller, and sanded between coats with one of those spongey sanding blocks . Possibly too rough?

I still have a bit of an eggshell look now with my primer applied ....not nearly as smooth as I started after glue sizing and sanding.

Do I sand between coats of paint? If so, what should I use? Is my Festool half-sheet finish sander appropriate or overkill?

Paint by the way is 'sealskin'....an almost black gray that will be pretty forgiving.

By the way, I will be applying a poly topcoat as well.

Lastly....the bottoms of the 'feet' are still unfinished. I was thinking of just hitting it with 205 epoxy and a coat of paint after the poly has hardened.... It's too big and too heavy to flip and I'm afraid gravity will dent and knick it if i try to paint the bottoms while it's still soft. Good/bad idea?

(The paint does go all the way down btw...It's up on a MDF 'riser' in that photo for painting)

Thanks as always. This monster is that much closer to being out of my shop!

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If you have the epoxy use that. I would use some sort of feet , however thin or whatever just so if liquid gets spilled it can't soak into the bottom of the legs. Being able to level it could be useful if the floor is out of level and it rocks when you get it in place. Sinking into carpet can make a heavy piece wobbly, but 4 feet on each leg will be stable.

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