Fxguy Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Hey guys! I'm working on a little Model-T for my son's first birthday and when I was cutting the chassis on the bandsaw, I noticed I got kerf marks all over the side vs when I cut the other side with the table saw, it was pretty flat / smooth. What's causing this? Here are some pics -- With Band Saw- With Table Saw - Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Bandsaw blades can be fine or coarse, I suspect you are using a coarse blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Your feed rate may have been a little too aggressive as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Like mowing grass, the slower you feed in relation to blade speed, the smoother the cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Unless you buy a carbide-tipped blade, you can pretty much expect to never get as clean a cut as you do on a tablesaw...even then, it's not gonna be perfectly clean. Bandsaws are for roughing out parts, and they're always gonna need more work after the cut. Hit that model T with a hand plane a few times. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 I dont suspect it is the feed rate, as I am feeding it as about as slow as I possibly can, I mean literally taking 3-4 minutes to make the cut. Kiki - Any reason to use the hand plane over sanding it down with the bench sander? Also any good source for a blade? My local woodworking store doesn't exactly have blades for 9" craftsman (think more PM, Laguna, etc..) So if the bandsaw typically gives a rough cut anyways, then for resawing do you have to always run it through the joiner / planer anyways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Woodguy Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 So if the bandsaw typically gives a rough cut anyways, then for resawing do you have to always run it through the joiner / planer anyways? Generally I do. If it's resawing something like thin vaneeers, I'll take them to the drum sander instead. Or sometimes the cut can be fine enough as is, based on what you're trying to do. It's not that it's 'impossible' to get an even cut off a bandsaw (there are woodworkers who do everything with just a bandsaw), it's just that there are so many factors in play with bandsaw and blades that I wouldn't solely depend on it for something like smooth / glueline cuts each and every time, unlike a tablesaw. You'll improve your chances of a great cut considerably with the right blade, the right tension / tracking / bearing adjustments for blade / drift; things like featherboards or pushblocks to keep the wood against the fence during the cut can also greatly help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 I dont suspect it is the feed rate, as I am feeding it as about as slow as I possibly can, I mean literally taking 3-4 minutes to make the cut. Kiki - Any reason to use the hand plane over sanding it down with the bench sander? Also any good source for a blade? My local woodworking store doesn't exactly have blades for 9" craftsman (think more PM, Laguna, etc..) So if the bandsaw typically gives a rough cut anyways, then for resawing do you have to always run it through the joiner / planer anyways? 1. If it's taking 3-4 minutes to make that little cut, you shouldn't be using that blade to slice up butter. It's beyond dull. Worthless and dangerous. 2. Less dust and no risk of rounding over the edges unintentionally. Also it will be faster and you'll end up with a nicer surface than from sanding. 3. Try Sears. If they can't help you, look into buying a bigger bandsaw. 4. Yes. Or hand planes. Or drum sander on thin parts like EOTW said. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 1. If it's taking 3-4 minutes to make that little cut, you shouldn't be using that blade to slice up butter. It's beyond dull. Worthless and dangerous. 2. Less dust and no risk of rounding over the edges unintentionally. Also it will be faster and you'll end up with a nicer surface than from sanding. 3. Try Sears. If they can't help you, look into buying a bigger bandsaw. The 3-4 Minutes is a gross estimate, in general I was pushing very slow to get the cut, it could have cut it in 3-4 seconds if I wanted to plow the piece through... Yes, this is the second chassis I've built because the first I ended up unintentionally rounding the edges over too much. Unfortunately Sears in town here has closed its store down.... Also it seems that I am struggling to get straight cuts on the bandsaw. I haven't yet built the fence and adjusted for blade drift, so that may help. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Fxguy, I just started using a Wood Slicer from Highland Woodworking and it's giving me the smoothest cut of any blade I've used so far. Timberwolf is a close second but I don't know if you can get one for that size saw or not. Highland will custom make them for you if they don't stock your size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 Slow is not always a friend. It allows time for deviation due to vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Tooth count per inch makes a difference as well. On a thick cut, a blade with more space between the teeth cuts better. With too many teeth, the waste bunches up in the gullets, causing similar effects as are seen with a dull blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Lots of great replies! Love this place! Its so nice to be able to ask questions and get such great feedback and advice. Looks like I still have quite a bit to learn even when it comes to the basics for my bandsaw. Looks like I'm going to be in the market for some new blades for it. K Cooper, checked out the Highland Woodslicer blade, unfortunately the blade on the craftsman is 59" - 59 1/4" and 1/4" to 3/8" wide. The Highland site says the lowest custom length must still be over 60" . So for blades, what should I be looking for? I'm considering this set of 3 blades from Timberwolf - http://timberwolfblades.com/proddetail.php?prod=3BladePackCurveRippingResawing101214 Especially since I can order it in a 59" blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 So I checked and the blade that I have on the bandsaw is an Olson 59 1/2" blade with 6 Teeth Per Inch. Relatively new (less than 6 months old) and having very little use should still be pretty sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Something isn't right then. I use a 6TPI blade, and while it does require cleanup, the saw marks are nowhere near that severe, even with some of the resawing I have done with it. As others have said, make sure your feed rate isn't too slow. You will be able to tell if your feed rate is too fast, as long as you don't force it. Also check to make sure the tension on your blade is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 First thing I would do is a complete tuneup on the bandsaw. Guides(above and below the table ), wheels coplanar, tires clean, blade clean, belt tension, blade tension, Table square to the blade. Every time I do it my cut quality improves. Lots of articles out there on how to do it. I follow the instructions in the Bandsaw Book I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Just for the heck of it, and no reflection on you is meant but, check to see that the teeth of your blade are going in the right direction. I say this because I'm guilty. In a quick blade change, I wasn't paying attention and yep, it happened. But in my case, I didn't get a jagged cut, but lots of smoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieboy Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Re check speed, feed, tension, TPI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Thanks for the advice. I've felt something wasn't quite right with this bandsaw from the beginning. I did do a tune up on it when I initially got it less than 6 months ago. I'm probably feeding too slow. I know initially I had problems getting the blade tensioned and I would get everything set up just right, feed a test piece through, and it would "catch" or "jump" and the blade would pop off the wheels, especially towards the end of a cut. I keep feeling like I can't get the blade tight enough. I figured its the fact that is a bench top craftsman 9" bandsaw not a nice powermatic or something like that. K Kooper - Its hard to install the blade with the teeth in the wrong direction because the teeth are only on one side of the blade. Although, I guess it the blade were turned inside out..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 It doesn't have to be a Powermatic, but yeah, a 9" Craftsman isn't gonna be the best tool in the world for most projects. Consider relegating that machine to light scroll work and getting at least a 14" to do more demanding work. The saw you have is better suited for very light-duty crafty stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 K Kooper - Its hard to install the blade with the teeth in the wrong direction because the teeth are only on one side of the blade. Although, I guess it the blade were turned inside out..... That's what had happened. I guess when I unrolled it, the outside of the blade ended going against the tire when installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 I have had blades come coiled inside out. I can see how someone could easily install a blade upside done as a result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 I meant know offense, and if it came coiled inside out then it would be very easy to install it upside down. I stand corrected. just for reference though the teeth point toward the table with then angled part of the tooth angling up away from the table and front of the blade correct ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Yep , point goes down ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Any advice as to keeping the blade from popping off the tires in the middle of a cut? I've got it about as tight as I can get it, is it possible to over tighten the blade? I've got it as tight as I can get it and the blade guides setup to within the width of a dollar bill of the blade and then the guides as close to the workpiece as I can get. If I were going to replace it with something a little more suited to heavier work what are some trusted brands and price ranges for new vs used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.