Saw Marks on Bandsaw


Fxguy

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Hey guys! 

 

I'm working on a little Model-T for my son's first birthday and when I was cutting the chassis on the bandsaw, I noticed I got kerf marks all over the side vs when I cut the other side with the table saw, it was pretty flat / smooth. What's causing this? 

 

Here are some pics --

 

With Band Saw- 

IMG_0002_zps39b6477a.jpg

 

 

With Table Saw -

IMG_0003_zpsd58125ee.jpg

 

 

Thanks! 

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Unless you buy a carbide-tipped blade, you can pretty much expect to never get as clean a cut as you do on a tablesaw...even then, it's not gonna be perfectly clean.  Bandsaws are for roughing out parts, and they're always gonna need more work after the cut.  Hit that model T with a hand plane a few times.

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I dont suspect it is the feed rate, as I am feeding it as about as slow as I possibly can, I mean literally taking 3-4 minutes to make the cut. 

 

Kiki - Any reason to use the hand plane over sanding it down with the bench sander? 

 

Also any good source for a blade? My local woodworking store doesn't exactly have blades for 9" craftsman (think more PM, Laguna, etc..) 

 

So if the bandsaw typically gives a rough cut anyways, then for resawing do you have to always run it through the joiner / planer anyways? 

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So if the bandsaw typically gives a rough cut anyways, then for resawing do you have to always run it through the joiner / planer anyways? 

 

Generally I do. If it's resawing something like thin vaneeers, I'll take them to the drum sander instead. Or sometimes the cut can be fine enough as is, based on what you're trying to do. It's not that it's 'impossible' to get an even cut off a bandsaw (there are woodworkers who do everything with just a bandsaw), it's just that there are so many factors in play with bandsaw and blades that I wouldn't solely depend on it for something like smooth / glueline cuts each and every time, unlike a tablesaw.

 

You'll improve your chances of a great cut considerably with the right blade, the right tension / tracking / bearing adjustments for blade / drift; things like featherboards or pushblocks to keep the wood against the fence during the cut can also greatly help.

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I dont suspect it is the feed rate, as I am feeding it as about as slow as I possibly can, I mean literally taking 3-4 minutes to make the cut. 

 

Kiki - Any reason to use the hand plane over sanding it down with the bench sander? 

 

Also any good source for a blade? My local woodworking store doesn't exactly have blades for 9" craftsman (think more PM, Laguna, etc..) 

 

So if the bandsaw typically gives a rough cut anyways, then for resawing do you have to always run it through the joiner / planer anyways? 

 

1. If it's taking 3-4 minutes to make that little cut, you shouldn't be using that blade to slice up butter.  It's beyond dull.  Worthless and dangerous.

 

2. Less dust and no risk of rounding over the edges unintentionally.  Also it will be faster and you'll end up with a nicer surface than from sanding.

 

3. Try Sears.  If they can't help you, look into buying a bigger bandsaw. :)

 

4. Yes.  Or hand planes.  Or drum sander on thin parts like EOTW said.

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1. If it's taking 3-4 minutes to make that little cut, you shouldn't be using that blade to slice up butter.  It's beyond dull.  Worthless and dangerous.

 

2. Less dust and no risk of rounding over the edges unintentionally.  Also it will be faster and you'll end up with a nicer surface than from sanding.

 

3. Try Sears.  If they can't help you, look into buying a bigger bandsaw. :)

 

The 3-4 Minutes is a gross estimate, in general I was pushing very slow to get the cut, it could have cut it in 3-4 seconds if I wanted to plow the piece through... 

 

Yes, this is the second chassis I've built because the first I ended up unintentionally rounding the edges over too much. 

 

Unfortunately Sears in town here has closed its store down.... 

 

Also it seems that I am struggling to get straight cuts on the bandsaw. I haven't yet built the fence and adjusted for blade drift, so that may help. :-) 

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Fxguy, I just started using a Wood Slicer from Highland Woodworking and it's giving me the smoothest cut of any blade I've used so far. Timberwolf is a close second but I don't know if you can get one for that size saw or not. Highland will custom make them for you if they don't stock your size.

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Lots of great replies! Love this place! Its so nice to be able to ask questions and get such great feedback and advice. Looks like I still have quite a bit to learn even when it comes to the basics for my bandsaw. Looks like I'm going to be in the market for some new blades for it. K Cooper, checked out the Highland Woodslicer blade, unfortunately the blade on the craftsman is 59" - 59 1/4" and 1/4" to 3/8" wide. The Highland site says the lowest custom length must still be over 60" .  

 

So for blades, what should I be looking for? I'm considering this set of 3 blades from Timberwolf - http://timberwolfblades.com/proddetail.php?prod=3BladePackCurveRippingResawing101214

 

Especially since I can order it in a 59" blade. 

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Something isn't right then.  I use a 6TPI blade, and while it does require cleanup, the saw marks are nowhere near that severe, even with some of the resawing I have done with it.  As others have said, make sure your feed rate isn't too slow.  You will be able to tell if your feed rate is too fast, as long as you don't force it.  Also check to make sure the tension on your blade is correct.

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First thing I would do is a complete tuneup on the bandsaw. Guides(above and below the table ), wheels coplanar, tires clean, blade clean, belt tension, blade tension, Table square to the blade. Every time I do it my cut quality improves. Lots of articles out there on how to do it. I follow the instructions in the Bandsaw Book I have.

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Just for the heck of it, and no reflection on you is meant but, check to see that the teeth of your blade are going in the right direction. I say this because I'm guilty. In a quick blade change, I wasn't paying attention and yep, it happened. But in my case, I didn't get a jagged cut, but lots of smoke.

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Thanks for the advice. I've felt something wasn't quite right with this bandsaw from the beginning. I did do a tune up on it when I initially got it less than 6 months ago. I'm probably feeding too slow. I know initially I had problems getting the blade tensioned and I would get everything set up just right, feed a test piece through, and it would "catch" or "jump" and the blade would pop off the wheels, especially towards the end of a cut. I keep feeling like I can't get the blade tight enough. I figured its the fact that is a bench top craftsman 9" bandsaw not a nice powermatic or something like that.  

 

K Kooper - Its hard to install the blade with the teeth in the wrong direction because the teeth are only on one side of the blade. Although, I guess it the blade were turned inside out..... 

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It doesn't have to be a Powermatic, but yeah, a 9" Craftsman isn't gonna be the best tool in the world for most projects.  Consider relegating that machine to light scroll work and getting at least a 14" to do more demanding work.  The saw you have is better suited for very light-duty crafty stuff.

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K Kooper - Its hard to install the blade with the teeth in the wrong direction because the teeth are only on one side of the blade. Although, I guess it the blade were turned inside out..... 

That's what had happened. I guess when I unrolled it, the outside of the blade ended going against the tire when installed.

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I meant know offense, and if it came coiled inside out then it would be very easy to install it upside down. I stand corrected. just for reference though the teeth point toward the table with then angled part of the tooth angling up away from the table and front of the blade correct ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Any advice as to keeping the blade from popping off the tires in the middle of a cut? I've got it about as tight as I can get it, is it possible to over tighten the blade? I've got it as tight as I can get it and the blade guides setup to within the width of a dollar bill of the blade and then the guides as close to the workpiece as I can get. 

 

If I were going to replace it with something a little more suited to heavier work what are some trusted brands and price ranges for new vs used? 

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