wdwerker Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Sounds like you need to adjust the tilt of the upper wheel just a bit to barely encourage the blade to settle into the guides instead of drifting forward. Another thing is cutting relief cuts so you don't have to back out of a long cut. Backing out of a cut the blade gets caught on the rough cut and it's you pulling the blade off of the tires. Yes, you can over tighten the blade. Do a little reading about how much sideways deflection there should be in a properly tightened blade. It depends on the width of the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 What do you mean by barely encouraging the blade to settle into the guides? It doesn't seem like the blade is drifting forward. Maybe I'm having the opposite problem? It seems to be popping off when I'm pushing a cut through too fast, not while backing out of a cut. Maybe the blade is drifting off the back of the upper wheel. I thought I had them pretty parallel, measured with a level / straight edge to get them parallel / coplanar and thought I had it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 I hate to sound like a tool snob, but you're getting pretty predictable results from a 9" Craftsman. Look at 14" saws from, well, pretty much ANY other brand. Grizzly is probably the best bang for your buck, but definitely not the highest quality. I recently got a Laguna 14-12 and I'm finding it to be a great value at around a thousand bucks. The Laguna SUV is the mac daddy of 14" saws. Powermatic, Jet, Delta, etc will all get the job done. Look on CL if you need to stay within a budget. But you're really gonna have to graduate from that little Craftsman...it ain't no good. Keep it and put a tiny little blade on it for really intricate small curvy cuts...and get a bigger, better saw for everything else. A good bandsaw opens up a lot of new roads to go down in a shop. A very versatile tool, but IMO a 14" is the smallest saw that I'd consider for a cabinet or furniture maker's shop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Don't your guides have a backstop ? My saw has a bearing in the back that the blade rests against when you push. Always remember to adjust the guides above and below the table. The lower ones get ignored lots of the time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 I just looked over the PDF instructions for your saw. Rear roller guide is what needs to be adjusted, upper and lower ! And Kiki is right that's almost a toy bandsaw, especially if you are going to cut thick hardwood scrollwork with it. If it's all you can afford it will take lots of patience but you can still do lots with a little machine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I hate to sound like a tool snob, but you're getting pretty predictable results from a 9" Craftsman. Look at 14" saws from, well, pretty much ANY other brand. Grizzly is probably the best bang for your buck, but definitely not the highest quality. I recently got a Laguna 14-12 and I'm finding it to be a great value at around a thousand bucks. The Laguna SUV is the mac daddy of 14" saws. Powermatic, Jet, Delta, etc will all get the job done. Look on CL if you need to stay within a budget. But you're really gonna have to graduate from that little Craftsman...it ain't no good. Keep it and put a tiny little blade on it for really intricate small curvy cuts...and get a bigger, better saw for everything else. A good bandsaw opens up a lot of new roads to go down in a shop. A very versatile tool, but IMO a 14" is the smallest saw that I'd consider for a cabinet or furniture maker's shop. Kiki, no problem with being a tool snob! I totally understand! At the moment the craftsman is the best I could do and I bought it totally aware of the limitations. I'm just asking questions to make sure I've set it up the best I can. I think I didn't realize how much I would be using it. I just looked over the PDF instructions for your saw. Rear roller guide is what needs to be adjusted, upper and lower ! And Kiki is right that's almost a toy bandsaw, especially if you are going to cut thick hardwood scrollwork with it. If it's all you can afford it will take lots of patience but you can still do lots with a little machine. I did adjust both guides and rollers above and below the table. Again, I got the machine because it was all I could afford and its better than nothing at all. When I bought it I didn't realize how much I would enjoy making a toy for my son and want to do more of them and therefore using the bandsaw more than I originally planned. Getting a 14" saw will be an improvement to the shop like getting a joiner and planer were, opening up a lot more possibilities. Well, guess my shop isn't quite complete (and from most woodworkers I have talked to it never is... :-) ). Looks like I'm going to be in the market for a Bandsaw upgrade followed by a Router upgrade and then some dust collection upgrade / improvement. After that a Festool finish sander and a lathe and I should be set. LOL! At least I've got a decent Table Saw, Planer, Joiner, Drill Press and Scroll Saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I agree, I don't think a shop is ever really complete! Hats off for your effort! I know it's little consolation but, at least you know it's a tool you like and will use. So, when the time comes, you might invest a little more. There's a few good ones out there that you won't have to promise your first born to get. In the end tho, I do hope you're able to get this one working for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 At the moment there are two Jet 12" bandsaws on craigslist , one for $180 and one for $350. The $350 one looks like it has a fence with it. Also a rockwell/delta for $250 and a 14" Jet that looks almost brand new for $400. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 You can get into the Grizz 14" for about 550. New. In the end, it's your money and your shop and only you can decide what's right for you. I'd go for one of the 14s if it's in the budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 My saw started as a Rockwell/Delta 14". Then I added a bunch of aftermarket upgrades over the years. It's been a good saw. Nowadays major factory parts are getting harder to find and the new owners of Delta seem to be of little help. I have been happy with the Jet machines I have bought. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Coming to this a little late but worn tires can also make the blade jump off the wheel. As the rubber on the tire stretch, centrifugal force causes a bulge in the tire to form on the side away from the blade. Eventually the bulge will follow the direction of travel on the wheel around until it gets caught under the blade and causes it to leave the track. All the comments about the 9" Craftsman being a less than quality saw fit with everything I've heard in the past. Not having used the saw my self I'm not going to bash it. Personally, I have a 12" open stand Jet that I got new 7 or 8 years ago for a very reasonable price. While I'd love to have a 14" it's not in the budge right now. I am very happy with this saw now - no complaints from me about the Jet brand. I did add a Kregg fence which helps quite a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieboy Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 I may sound fool to ask this but are the tires glued down? Anyway, Jet saws are nice machines. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Fxguy, I just started using a Wood Slicer from Highland Woodworking and it's giving me the smoothest cut of any blade I've used so far. Timberwolf is a close second but I don't know if you can get one for that size saw or not. Highland will custom make them for you if they don't stock your size. I have the same Craftsman saw as you. I use nothing but Timberwolf blades. I use the 3/8" blade to resaw 2" & 3" cherry and walnut. I made a fence out of really good stock, make sure it is straight and clamp it down. Is your blade riding in the center of the tires? That's the first adjustment to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 So I was cutting some maple for some rockers and the blade popped off again so I decided to recheck everything. The blade is riding in the center of the tires, but I noticed quite a bit of play in the wheels. I tightened them both as much as I could, resulting in almost no play in the lower wheel, but still have some play in the upper wheel. There is enough play to notice a slight "wobble" of the upper wheel when the saw is running, maybe a 1/16" of wobble / play in the upper wheel. Not sure what if anything there is I can do about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Is there a bearing to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fxguy Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Yeah, looking at the manual it looks like there is a ball bearing that I could replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Partsdirect.com or Bobker Bearing or local place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.