Cmac2008 Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Ok my face frames and boxes are complete... I used 2 1/4 r&s for the FF...I made my boxes flush with the inside of the ff... I know some May not like this but it's done and no changing lol. I want to make a shaker style door and drawer fronts but not inset them... Also what kinda drawer slides do I need to buy so I can start on my dimensions for my drawers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Welcome to the forums Cmac! I think I understand your question but, can you put up a picture of the cabinet to make sure we're all on the same page? Is this a shop cabinet or an "in the house" cabinet? Are you wanting soft close hardware or just regular side glides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmac2008 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 I will get some pics as soon as I get home... They are just shop cabinets but I am using red oak and making them just like for the house so I can learn... Since they are just for the shop I don't need the soft close but they will be holding some weight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 For shop furniture, I usually use full extension glides. If this is what you'll be using, the drawers should be build 1 inch smaller than the opening to allow for the glides. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmac2008 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Ok is there a certain brand you prefer? Also are these side mount? My flush cabinet boxes won't give me a problem here? Thanks alot for the quick response!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Assuming that you used 3/4" material for your boxes and your FF is flush w/ the inside of your box, then your FF extends 1.5" past the outside of your box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmac2008 Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Correct... One reason I will always have a scribe edge when butting up multiple cabinets and I will also have room on ends for a end panel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Ok is there a certain brand you prefer? Also are these side mount? My flush cabinet boxes won't give me a problem here? Thanks alot for the quick response!!! With your FF flush with the inside of the cabinet, that works perfectly for side mounted glides. I'm not brand specific with shop furniture. I will suggest staying away from the big box stores as I've found them to be way over priced! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 I mostly use KV slides. Accuride makes a good slide but in my area I get much better pricing on KV. Blum and Grass make good concealed slides. And lots of companies make decent epoxy coated 3/4 extension white slides, but I usually use full extension ball bearing slides. The imported full extension slides from Asia are not worth the savings ! Tried them and had to replace them, never again! In general the less expensive the slide the more accurate you have to be in building the case , drawer and installing it ! If everything isn't just perfect a cheap slide will be nightmare! Good full extension slides and concealed slides have some tolerance for the inaccuracies that creep in to building drawers and casework. The high dollar self closing concealed slides have adjustments for up down & left- right and this is very handy, but if it gets used up adjusting to your mistakes then nothing is left over for lining up a row of drawer fronts in a kitchen. A cabinet needs to be square and consistent in width, a drawer needs to be square and parallel in every way ! Minor errors cause a lifetime of misery opening and closing a poor fitting drawer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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