Proper technique for re-sawing 4x4 posts

[bfiedler]

Recently for a table project I needed to trim 4x4 cedar posts down to 3x3 to make them a little less chunky. The way I did it was to use my fathers shop smith table saw. However, the highest the blade could move up was 3 inches. Which resulted in me having to make two cuts that the blade was totally buried in the wood, not allowing for the stock splitter to work. The saw had a hard time making the cut, plus it was kick back city. Not a good situation. 

 

This brings me to my question, how would you have done this cut? My tool compliment includes a circular (total blade depth 2.75in), the table saw, jig saw, a few planes, a cheap Black and Decker band saw (low HP, no real fence, and cheap blade). 

 

The only safe way I can think to do this with my tools would be to use my disc sander aggressively 

 

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[Eric.]

Ideally you would use a bandsaw.  But if I had to do it on my tablesaw, I'd cut almost halfway through on the first pass, then flip the board over and cut almost halfway through on the second pass, leaving just a bit of meat connecting the keeper piece and the waste piece.  Then use a handsaw to finish the cut, and clean up with a hand plane or send it through the planer.

[bfiedler]

First, please forgive me for my poor photoshop skills. I don't have sketch up on this computer.

 

The attached image shows how I made the cut. I think I did about like what you are describing, however, I went all the way through. Are you suggesting not to do that, so that it stays as one piece, reducing the chance of kick back?

[wtnhighlander]

What Kiki says is good. If kickback concerns you, by leaving a small strip connected between cuts you have a solid section above the blade, against which you can use a featherboard. You just need a spacer under the featherboard to make it the proper height.

[Beechwood Chip]

Were these 4" x 4", or "nominal" 4x4s that are 3.5" x 3.5"?

 

I like Kiki's approach, but I don't have a band saw.  On my table saw I'd install a rip blade and swap out the splitter / blade guard for the riving knife.  The riving knife is like a splitter that doesn't extend above the blade.  If I raise the blade up all the way I can cut just over 3".

 

I'd do it in three cuts:

 

1. Blade raised to 1.25", fence set to 3" + a smidgen from blade
2. Turn the piece 90 degrees so the first cut is horizontal, away from the table and away from the fence.  Raise the blade high enough to meet the first cut, and set the fence to 3" (your final dimension).  This cut basically cuts a large rabbet - the off cut is free to fall away from the blade.
3. Turn piece so the tall side is away from the fence, and make the final cut, same setup.  

[bfiedler]

 

Were these 4" x 4", or "nominal" 4x4s that are 3.5" x 3.5"?

 

I like Kiki's approach, but I don't have a band saw.  On my table saw I'd install a rip blade and swap out the splitter / blade guard for the riving knife.  The riving knife is like a splitter that doesn't extend above the blade.  If I raise the blade up all the way I can cut just over 3".

 

I'd do it in three cuts:

 

1. Blade raised to 1.25", fence set to 3" + a smidgen from blade
2. Turn the piece 90 degrees so the first cut is horizontal, away from the table and away from the fence.  Raise the blade high enough to meet the first cut, and set the fence to 3" (your final dimension).  This cut basically cuts a large rabbet - the off cut is free to fall away from the blade.
3. Turn piece so the tall side is away from the fence, and make the final cut, same setup.  

 

Yes, these were nominal. Basically cedar fence post. 

 

I like the way you are thinning about that. My fear with doing that was that I wouldn't end up with a perfect cut, but thats where the planes come in handy! The nice part was that because these were legs, they didn't have to be exact, just close enough so they didn't look goofy. 

 

 

Now for one curve ball question, just to see opinions. If you had a thickness planer, and a table saw, would you consider using it to eat away the 1/2in in small steps, or stick with the table saw route?

[wtnhighlander]

Considering how soft cedar is, you could get away with planing it, but I personally would use the saw.

[wouldwurker]

Ideally you would use a bandsaw. But if I had to do it on my tablesaw, I'd cut almost halfway through on the first pass, then flip the board over and cut almost halfway through on the second pass, leaving just a bit of meat connecting the keeper piece and the waste piece. Then use a handsaw to finish the cut, and clean up with a hand plane or send it through the planer.

+1