Table Saw Balancing


collinb

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My table saw is an old Craftsman, direct drive.  Will add model # this even when I get a chance to get to it.)

I've noticed that the blade has a wobble when it starts up.

Research shows that it the arbor (new and old blades did the same thing) is a common culprit but I need to spend some time alone with it to determine the complete story.

 

Other than checking the arbor and blade for flatness, what else should I be looking at? Bearings? Motor mount?

 

(If I put this in the wrong section perhaps a moderator might assist.  Tx.)

 

[ Moved to Power Tool City -- Beechwood ]

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Best hope is for the bearings to be bad. Replacing them (especially if the saw is over 15 years old) is the first thing you should check. The arbor could be worn which would probably be the end of the saw unless a replacement could be found from replacement parts store. Possible to find someone else parting out their saw but those can be harder to get frankly. 

 

Best hope is for really really bad bearings. 

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Model is craftsman 113.298090.

I just spent some time playing with the blade, rotating it and changing its position.  Also removed it.

The blade is flat.

 

What I did find is that the motor shaft has some lateral shift to it.

I can imagine this being caused by either a bearing or a more serious motor issue.

It may not be worth the time given the price of used saws.

 

What I'm going to do at this point is (a) look for a replacement and ( B) do what I've been doing all along: cut long and let the sander and/or router/shaper finish it out.  It's not an ideal situation but it will work for now.

 

There are some reasonably-prices units on craigslist about which I've sent messages.

(Sunday at an auction I passed on a nice belt drive Delta.  Probably would have taken good care of me.  Only went for $75.  But alas.

http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/auctionview.cgi?lid=2228341&kwd=table%20saw&zip=43081&category=0

http://www.auctionzip.com/Full-Image/2228341/fp128.cgi)

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Changing bearings is not hard and chances are if you buy a saw older then about 15 years you will want to do it with your new (to you) saw anyway. That being said, your saw is not exactly a collectors item so picking up a nice used saw in the under 400 dollar range will produce some pretty good options. Might even find a good modern contractors saw with a riving knife which would be pretty nice safety feature.

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I may start by giving the motor a look-see.  If it has sealed bearings --- bummer.  If it is maintainable, then perhaps I can find the bearings before disassembling it.  Still, for the time I would potentially put into it ... again bummer.

 

Still, it is better than a boat anchor.  it is useful, just not optimum for the best possible work and product.

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I may start by giving the motor a look-see.  If it has sealed bearings --- bummer.  If it is maintainable, then perhaps I can find the bearings before disassembling it.  Still, for the time I would potentially put into it ... again bummer.

 

Still, it is better than a boat anchor.  it is useful, just not optimum for the best possible work and product.

Observations and assumptions.  I see gray hair - a man in his 50s.  Maybe you're a little like me...there was a time when I enjoyed rebuilding things - not so much any more....one reason, years ago I had more time than money so I had to.  Today, I can afford things a little better and would RATHER be making projects than working on tools.  Question - do you LIKE working on things?  If so, proceed but realize the finished product will still only be 'ok'. Many of us have had the old Craftsman table saws.  MANY nice pieces have been made with them but the blade alignment and fence system is always a crap shoot - sometimes they're "ok" and sometimes just plain ol' crappy.  My Craftsman that I inherited from my F-i-law had "codes"....for a straight cut, you had to push here and tighten while pushing there. Today, newer saws - even lower priced saws have fence systems that are better than what I used a while back. Craigs list used or a new basic saw from Amazon and you're WAAAY ahead and still not much more money than you're going to pay to refurbish a boat anchor.

I have enjoyed our talk....in English.

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Today, I can afford things a little better and would RATHER be making projects than working on tools.

 

 

Absolutely.

 

Craigs list used or a new basic saw from Amazon and you're WAAAY ahead and still not much more money than you're going to pay to refurbish a boat anchor.

 

 

Craigslist and auctions for me.  As I work through the leaning side of this it is getting a little more fun and a little less workish.

My goal is to finish our projects (kitchen & bookcases) and then sell most of the equipment.

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Absolutely.

 

 

Craigslist and auctions for me.  As I work through the leaning side of this it is getting a little more fun and a little less workish.

My goal is to finish our projects (kitchen & bookcases) and then sell most of the equipment.

Hopefully, You'll be able to step back and see the great work you did on the kitchen and bookcases, and decide to stay into woodworking :D . Keep us abreast of your progress.

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Most of the craftsman 113 series table saws were belt drive, but they did have one or two models that were direct drive, which is what it sounds like you have.  I bought a 113 belt drive table saw about 4 years ago, and put a new fence and wings on it, as well as few other updates.  The saw has done its job well for me, and I have completed many projects with it.  I paid $100 for the saw itself, and around another $300 (over time) to get it to more current standards  Here in south west Ohio, they are fairly common on Craigslist.  I don't check the Columbus region too often, but when I have, I have found them fairly common there as well.

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The one in Pickerington is direct drive.  The way you can tell from the pics is the throat insert.  All belt drive table saws from craftsman (including current models) use a pill shaped throat insert (rounded on both ends) where the direct drive models are bullet shaped (round on the end towards the user, square towards the back of the saw).  Also the direct drive saws have the internal switch on the saw body, where the switch for belt driven saws is usually hanging off the fence rail.  (Not always true, but gives you a place to start)  As another issue, missing the right wing is a big turn off, and the fence rails are missing.  In my opinion, at $200 it is way too expensive.  I personally would pass on it.

 

The one in Bellbrook (oddly enough same town I got my saw from) is a 100 series from the 1950s (or earlier) era, and is definitely belt driven.   The one thing to look out for is that some of them only took 8" blades. If it runs well, the saw will be a small beast. The web wings are cast iron, and I believe the body of the saw is as well.  From those I know who have that saw, I have heard both good and bad comments about it.  

 

Things I would check on that, or any for that matter, saw you are looking at used is, make sure the blade is 90degrees to the table and parallel to the miter slots.  Make sure the fence is parallel to both the blade and miter slot or very slightly splayed out from the blade.  Watch the saw make a few cuts.  If possible make the cuts yourself, or have the seller do it if they don't want you running it.

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collin,

i know my dad's is belt drive as i can see the motor hanging in the back.   i can't easily get picture off the phone. however the one that Mike linked to above is probably in better shape. i know that the entire top on my dad's is solid rust and will take quite a lot of TLC to make work.  for the price in the above link, I would bypass galion for now. 

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I can't tell what model this is.  Can you?

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/4668173639.html

 

But this one by Dayton looks like a good deal.

http://dayton.craigslist.org/tls/4667392197.html

 

I've emailed him some questions.

+1 Mike....I'd steer clear of the first one.  Dayton could be ok.  But.....for about $100....consider

Skil at Lowes

or

Ryobi at Home Depot

 

Both - New with a warranty. Neither is the saw to end all saws but I have the skill and it served me well until I upgraded.

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Not to discount Tim, while he is correct about the warranty, those saws are in a completely different league of table saw then the cast iron saws he is considering.  The craigslist saws are cast iron tops, with belt driven motors, and far better made then the plastic bodied saws that are going for new.

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another though collin

 

i have a rigid contractor saw that i like well enough. i got it from the Home depot RENTAL (no i did not steal it).  they replace them every year or two.  I just checked every month with the several stores in my area until one was about to go on the sell list.  one year old and i paid less than half new price.

 

i tried last night to upload pictures from the ipad via the Wood whisper app but i could not do it.

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another though collin

 

i have a rigid contractor saw that i like well enough. i got it from the Home depot RENTAL (no i did not steal it).  they replace them every year or two.  I just checked every month with the several stores in my area until one was about to go on the sell list.  one year old and i paid less than half new price.

 

i tried last night to upload pictures from the ipad via the Wood whisper app but i could not do it.

Never knew they did that and a I wouldn't think a rental saw would have a lot of hours on it.

 

I hear what you're saying Mike and I agree, the cast iron tops and belt driven motors are better but that comes with an unknown (used) and in my mind and in this case, it's the fence and the wear due to the age.  With my little Skil that I mentioned, the aluminum top is "grabby" and nothing like the saw I have now with the cast iron top.  For me, it was a saw to build some things and get something better than the Craftsman I had until I could upgrade.  My old, used Craftsman was my father-in-law's and had been in a shop fire and the miter slot was slightly warped so it was tight at one place when pushing the miter gauge toward the blade....not good; so for me the Skil table saw was a good filler until I could upgrade and hey...as I said, it's may not be the final saw you'll want to finish with; but it cuts accurately, its footprint is small, it has decent power. and it's 110V.  Maybe for the projects collinb wants to do, a small saw is sufficient? It was just an idea.  If you're patient collinb, (and it sounds like you are) you'll probably find a better saw on CL.

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