ridnharley Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Just picked up a slab of red oak to make a kitchen bar/countertop. What moisture content should I have the wood at before I work it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tarbell Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 That depends on the humidity in your area/house. I'm not an expert, but I think you can get a ballpark figure by getting the relative humidity in your area along with the temperature and then plugging it into this chart. That will let you know roughly what the moisture content should be in the wood for it to match your environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 If it's a kitchen counter you need to consider filling the grain. Red oak has such an open grain pattern that juices and food particles will get in pretty deep and go rancid ! If you are planning a epoxy or other thick poured coating that will acheive the same result as filling the grain. Oil, wax and similar non film forming finishes on red oak will not be very safe. White oak on the other hand is used for barrels , ships etc and doesn't have that coarse open grain that allows moisture in so deep. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 That depends on the humidity in your area/house. I'm not an expert, but I think you can get a ballpark figure by getting the relative humidity in your area along with the temperature and then plugging it into this chart. That will let you know roughly what the moisture content should be in the wood for it to match your environment. It's looking like 11% moisture content is the answer. Time to buy a moisture meter. I saw Woodcraft has one on sale for $20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 If it's a kitchen counter you need to consider filling the grain. Red oak has such an open grain pattern that juices and food particles will get in pretty deep and go rancid ! If you are planning a epoxy or other thick poured coating that will acheive the same result as filling the grain. Oil, wax and similar non film forming finishes on red oak will not be very safe. White oak on the other hand is used for barrels , ships etc and doesn't have that coarse open grain that allows moisture in so deep. I was planning on a few coats of water base poly for a finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 I was planning on a few coats of water base poly for a finish. Let's see.... Kitchen counter.. Water based poly... Open pores in the wood, Water on the counter! Nope, don't think its a good idea. If you follow wdwerker's advise, the chances of problems diminish nearly 99.9%.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 I use a water bourne finish all the time, but it's precatalysed acrylic that is only sold to pro shops. About 5-6 years ago I built a little mahogany table for my bathroom and used about 4 coats on the top. It gets a stoneware coffee mug on it every day, then gets the spray from the shower curtain and it's holding up great. Use a pore filler, sand and inspect, refill again sand , inspect until the pores are all filled. Then maybe use an exterior rated water based poly. Make a sample of your finish then test it with some spilled soda and a sweaty cold can. See if there is a ring left or if it still seems sticky after cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 I use a water bourne finish all the time, but it's precatalysed acrylic that is only sold to pro shops. About 5-6 years ago I built a little mahogany table for my bathroom and used about 4 coats on the top. It gets a stoneware coffee mug on it every day, then gets the spray from the shower curtain and it's holding up great. Use a pore filler, sand and inspect, refill again sand , inspect until the pores are all filled. Then maybe use an exterior rated water based poly. Make a sample of your finish then test it with some spilled soda and a sweaty cold can. See if there is a ring left or if it still seems sticky after cleaning. What would you use for a pore filler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 They sell it as "pore filler " look at serious finishing supplies sources not the big box stores. Also called grain filler for open grained woods. Several brands available , choice will depend on compatibly with any stain, sealers or finishes you are using. Oil and water based types are available. I even saw a YouTube video you might want to check out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 I've had some success using plaster of paris as a grain filler on red oak. Used plain, it turns somewhat translucent when a clear finish is applied. I added black dye to really enhance the grain contrast. It's inexpensive, and it does work, but I make no guarantees. Your mileage ma vary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 I watched the youtube videos. I am going to get the Timbermate and water it down and use as a grain filler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 I am reading quite a few good reviews about Arm R Seal on here. After using a grain filler, would that be a good finish for this countertop? Will it hold up to moisture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Not really. It's easy to apply and creates a thin finish but it doesn't build a protective film that will stand up to a kitchen counter type abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 What would be the best finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Bar top epoxy. Or mineral oil ( reapplied often) if you want to use your counter like a cutting board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 I would lean towards the epoxy or another tough film finish. A kitchen counter is going to get wet and food stains on it. Even if it's filled red oak is not an ideal wood for cutting boards. White oak is ok but not the greatest wood for a cutting board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 It's not going to be used as a cutting board. It will be used as a counter to eat at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Been awhile since I posted about this one. This project got put on hold but is back now. Countertop is finished. I am working on the wall pieces now. Excuse the mess in the picture background! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 That looks nice, what did you end up using for the finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridnharley Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 About 20 light coats... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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