I'm looking for a saw to cut plywood panels


Niku

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They make small circular saws for panel cutting . 1" thick might be right at their limit of thickness . Closer to the wall might be tricky.

Can you remove the baseboard? You could undercut the drywall and the baseboard would cover the gap when it's re-installed.

An osselating multitool is handy for undercutting door trim and frames. This would also work on short stretches vertically to cut a section of floor out. Beware of nails, screws etc !

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The radial arm saw is, in my opinion, and that of many experts, the single most dangerous power tool that you can have in your shop to cut plywood panels. There are very few cuts that you cannot make just as easily on a table saw or a Compound miter saw. Also, a Table saw or Compound Miter saw will be more accurate than a radial arm saw. If you are going to be making Rip cuts in full 4X8 sheets of plywood, either buy a Cabinet style table saw and use some sort of outfeed support, or buy or build a panel saw. Panel saws are not quite as accurate as a table saw, but they are far easier to use on large sheets of plywood, and they are more accurate than an unguided skilsaw. I have a table saw, compound miter saw and a radial arm saw. the table saw and miter saw get almost constant use, but I have not felt the desire to go anywhere near the radial arm saw since I bought the table saw. My final recommendation would be this, whatever you decide, DO NOT buy a radial arm saw.
 
Joseph Rohdes
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wdwerker,

 

No, you're not. My feeble excuse is that I had expected to be sent an E-mail when something was posted here. Furthermore, to make matters worse, I couldn't remember the name of this site, and I couldn't find it with Spotlight, or the search window in my Mail application. However, persistence pays--usually--and I finally was able to find my way here again. I'm going to have to get a better system. I think the one I am going to use is to simply keep a notebook chained to my computer desk. Everything related to computer usage will be posted there. Anyway, I am most appreciative of all of the comments that I've seen here. I'll post my answers to each poster separately.

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They make small circular saws for panel cutting . 1" thick might be right at their limit of thickness . Closer to the wall might be tricky.

Can you remove the baseboard? You could undercut the drywall and the baseboard would cover the gap when it's re-installed.

An osselating multitool is handy for undercutting door trim and frames. This would also work on short stretches vertically to cut a section of floor out. Beware of nails, screws etc !

Yes, I've thought of them, but I hate it when they stall out. It's more than that. I might be wrong, but I think such stalling can cause circuit-breakers to trip. I had that problem with  my table saw, and I don't want it to happen again. Maybe, as someone else has suggested, a small circular saw combined with a small reciprocating-type saw would be the answer. Say, 3/4" with the circular saw and the remainder with the reciprocating saw. I have an oscillating saw. It's great; in fact, two different contractors who worked on my house bought their own when they saw mine. Nevertheless, great as it is, it's not practical for long stretches of cuts.

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saws all, reciprocating saw will let you cut to zero clearance cut through nails but it won't give as good a cut as a circular saw if it's hard for you to hold up a skilsaw I'm not sure a saws all will be that much lighter.

It's just that circular sawsare too damned loud, bulky, powerful and, in my opinion, dangerous. I use them, but I don't like them. Smaller ones are not bad, but they have obvious limitations. However, my opinion is based upon my battery-operated small circular saws. It might very well be that smaller CORDED circular saws with, say, 4" blades instead of 7-1/4," would not stall out as my battery-powded ones tend to do. A POWERFUL small circular saw would be the answer to many of my needs

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saws all, reciprocating saw will let you cut to zero clearance cut through nails but it won't give as good a cut as a circular saw if it's hard for you to hold up a skilsaw I'm not sure a saws all will be that much lighter.

I bought a Sawzall, but its charger never worked, and I have never used it. I guess it's about time to get it fixed. Thanks for reminding me.

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Dewalt makes a jig saw blade that is really wide that projects out so the teeth are flush with the front of the saw, allowing for cuts right up to a vertical surface.  So you could use a small circular saw for most of the cut & just finish with the jig saw

I had thought of jig saws, but I didn't think they'd be powerful or durable enough to cut through, say, 30' of 7/8" particleboard plus tile flooring (I asked for 1" for a reliability cushion). However, combined with a first cut with a small circular saw, the Dewalt might be the answer. I'll look at one on Amazon.

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There is huge variation in the ergonomic comfort of various manufacturers' circ saws. What model is giving you trouble? Maybe a swap is called for.

You might be right. What I think would be appropriate would be  a circular saw with a 4" blade PROVIDED that it would be powerful enough for the job. My four inchers aren't but they are battery operated. Can corded ones do the job?

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The radial arm saw is, in my opinion, and that of many experts, the single most dangerous power tool that you can have in your shop to cut plywood panels. There are very few cuts that you cannot make just as easily on a table saw or a Compound miter saw. Also, a Table saw or Compound Miter saw will be more accurate than a radial arm saw. If you are going to be making Rip cuts in full 4X8 sheets of plywood, either buy a Cabinet style table saw and use some sort of outfeed support, or buy or build a panel saw. Panel saws are not quite as accurate as a table saw, but they are far easier to use on large sheets of plywood, and they are more accurate than an unguided skilsaw. I have a table saw, compound miter saw and a radial arm saw. the table saw and miter saw get almost constant use, but I have not felt the desire to go anywhere near the radial arm saw since I bought the table saw. My final recommendation would be this, whatever you decide, DO NOT buy a radial arm saw.
 
Joseph Rohdes

 

The job I have in mind is replacing the particle board and tile floor in my kitchen. I've managed to take out most of it with my heavy, noisy, bulky 7-1/4" circular saw, but it doesn't get close enough to the wall. Also, I HATE IT.

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Original poster hasn't even been on since the first post so I guess we are spinning our wheels.

It won't happen again. I can't believe that I didn't bookmark this site, since I have the same problem all the time, but I didn't. Maybe I came here before with Chrome, and I'm not familiar with how their bookmark system works. This time I'll be sure to bookmark this site with both Chrome and Safari, my usual browser. Sorry for leaving you hanging.

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Niku, explore the forum settings. When you post you can select a "follow this topic" sort of option (looks different on mobile so I am not certain) but you have to configure in the settings how you want to receive the information. The forum has native alerts but also offers email alerts. Short version, you have to tell it to email you but you can. Hope this helps that situation.

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For chrome, there's the star in the upper right corner of the address bar.  (At least, for me.)  then it's merely a matter of memorizing where you store the bookmark.  (I've got far too many, and desperately need to clean them out/ delete some.)  I'm aware that Command-L bookmarks in Safari, but that's as far as my Apple knowledge goes.  (Except Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, and Fiji.  Good baking apples, those Fiji.)

 

My experience (take it for what it's worth) is that the corded offer more power at lighter weight, when compared to the battery versions.  I'm aware that there are some companies addressing this issue, and the power output of some battery versions will be fantastic when first used.  The problem I have is that of battery charge: I don't know how the discharge of the power will affect power output of the tool.  I have one cordless drill that the power output drops in step with the battery charge, and one where the power output drops slightly over the same time as the battery charge until the battery charge level gets so low, the power output bails completely off.  (Usually just after starting the hole or screw, and on one of the last 5% of the project.)  But I have no experience in the battery operated circular saws.  (I plan on changing that in six months, so if you have any recommendations, I'm certainly open to them.)

 

Of course, then you run into the issue of cords/outlets/gauge of extension cord with the corded tools.

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 A new problem: when I try to go to "Settings," or some other places, the following message appears on my screen: 

 

http://www.siteadvisor.com/restricted.html?aff_id=0&domain=http%3A//www.woodtalkonline.com/index.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dsearch%26do%3DviewNewContent%26search_app%3Dforums

 

In case you can't open this link, it's a warning from McAfee, the security company. It says. "Whoa, are you  sure you want to..., and blah, blah, blah". I'll leave the site and reenter. Maybe that was a fluke.

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The job I have in mind is replacing the particle board and tile floor in my kitchen. I've managed to take out most of it with my heavy, noisy, bulky 7-1/4" circular saw, but it doesn't get close enough to the wall. Also, I HATE IT.

saws all, reciprocating saw that's the ticket you want your blade to be angled so your not cutting into the joists, much more finesse over joist locations cutting into joists opens another whole can of worms. Corded is my choice for saws all I have both but, if I only had cordless I'd use that rather than buy a corded saw. Use a metal cutting blade (hacksaw blade) those aggressive wood reciprocating blades are too hard finesse.

P.S. You could also rent a corded recip saw

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I don't see how to post to this website in general rather than to a particular topic, so I'll make my report here. I now find that when I try to enter this website through Safari. I get a message from McAfee, the security firm. Some of the things it says are," Warning: Dangerous Site; Are you sure you want to go there?; Woodtalkonline..may be risky to visit; When we visited this site, we found one or more risky behaviors.  Google Chrome doesn't carry this warning for this site.

 

I have changed my settings--you have so many--so that I am now notified when someone answers me. I have to admit that I was amazed at the many choices, some of which I didn't understand, or didn't understand the need for, but I'm now set to be notified--I think.  One example of something I don't understand is, "Auto follow topics I reply to". You have about two dozen categories of responding/notifying, so what is this for?

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  • 2 months later...

The answer is...Rockwell compact circular saw. It has a 4-1/2" blade and weighs less than 5 pounds. It's my dream machine. The things I could have done with it had I known about it.... It cuts plywood handily and has no problems with 2x4s. Another thing I like about it is that is remarkably easy to keep on a straight line. There is only one thing that I worry about, it heats up. I haven't been using it that long, but it did heat up more than I had expected after a long period of sustained usage. I hope this means nothing.

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