Please Help A Newbie Build His Norm Abrams Inspired "Ultimate Router Table"

[TheWoodShouter]

Hey guys! I am relatively new to woodworking, I'm looking to build myself a nice router table, and I'm hoping some of you here can help with some questions, please. I have done a lot of reading about building vs. buying, and I was even given the white Bosch laminated top router table as a gift, and after much consideration I decided to return that table to the store for credit. I have now decided to build my own table, and I am positive I have looked at absolutely every freely available router table plan on the internet, lol! But seriously, I have looked at many, many plans, for tables large and small, and in the spirit of, hopefully, "do it once, and do it right", I think I've finally decided to build a full sized table; a rolling, single-purpose cabinet style base, with a top in the neighborhood of 36"x24". In short, I want to build the Norm Abrams New Yankee Workshop Deluxe Router Station, and I've watched his video at least six or seven hundred times now ;-) In addition to the video linked below I also have a copy of the cut list with specific details and sizing of material.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V0fLf3hoQk

 

Additionally, there is a fine set of freely available plans for a similarly inspired router table from Creston Wood Furniture and Design Shop available at the link below:

 

http://www.crestonwood.com/router.php

 

There's a lot about these two router tables and cabinets that I like. For starters, this seems like a very functional, practical table. Additionally, there would be a lot of "firsts" for me as far as the construction techniques - which is great - and in particular working with the laminate material to make the top would be a big first. I like the look of the table from Creston Wood, especially the way he laminated the fronts of the drawers. That look really appeals to me, and I want to build my table like this one, at least as far as the appearance. I also like the way he added heavy duty casters to move the unit more easily. I would post a picture of the Creston Wood router table, but I don't have permission from that site, so I'll direct you to the link above so you can see for yourself. I like the look so much that - as long as I can do it - I'd like this to be the "style" of my shop furniture, and I'd like to build a drill press cart and workbenches and cabinets and more to match (that is, with the laminate material on the drawer/door fronts and hardwood face frame). So, unless someone really tells me I'm crazy, I'd like to try to build one of the two router tables I'm talking about here.

 

Before I continue, I know someone will ask me the obligatory, "What do you want to do with your router table", and "What router do you have/want", so here goes: I definitely would like to make my own cabinet doors, I do have a three piece raised panel bit set I'd like to try out. I want to add a decorative edge to my workpieces easily and safely. I know I want to be able to route simple patterns, like making large wooden letters and/or signs, and if possible I'd like to be able to make some easy moldings myself (maybe out of MDF??) to replace some of the worn moldings around the house that we bought less than a year ago. I'm not sure if I can do the moldings myself on a router table, or if that's more of a job for a shaper, but anything would be better than some of the moldings we have now. And in general, I know that the router and table is an extremely versatile shop tool that I would like to be able to exploit as far as possible. So, as mentioned before, I want to build it right the first time, and I think I can justify this "large" single purpose unit in my very small, hobby-level shop.

 

For a router, I debated long and hard between mostly the Dewalt and Bosch 2.25 combo fixed/plunge kit, and I certainly read about the Porter Cable, but in the end - almost on a snap decision - I went with the Milwaukee 2.25 hp plunge/fixed kit. I'm pretty sure I read that it featured an adjustment from above the table, which I already know is desirable, so I opted for that unit. That said, I know they are all quality machines, and I'm not opposed to owning more than one either ;-) In fact, Norm himself suggested that to get the most from his table it should house a 3 hp+ router, and I could definitely see myself getting such a beast of a router in the future, if this table build works out for me. But for now I have the Milwaukee 2.25 plunge/fixed kit and a vintage Craftsman 1.25 hp unit that was my dad's.

 

I have already started to gather parts/materials for this build, and the most important, I think, is the router table insert plate. I know for sure that you can buy a very high quality router tablet top, but I really want to try to build mine as per the Norm and Creston Wood plans. And, to that end, I chose the Kreg Precision Router Table Insert Plate undrilled version for this build. I chose this plate because it seems to me that *most* of the Kreg products are innovative and high quality, and again *most* seem to be well reviewed by users. So this is the plate I'd like to base my table off of. While shopping for the router plate I came across the Kreg router plate levelers, and I grabbed them too, but herein lies the first dilemma...

 

The Kreg Router Plate Levelers say that they work for table top thicknesses up to 1-1/2" thick. I was originally going to build my top from two laminated pieces of 3/4" MDF, but with the addition of the laminate top that's about an eighth of an inch thick, I'm afraid that my top will be too thick for the levelers to work right. The original NYW plans call for using 1 piece of 3/4" and 1 piece of 1/2" MDF to make the top. That, plus the laminate, should be in the range of thicknesses the levelers can handle, so that's one option. The second would be to forgo the Kreg levelers and just rabbit the opening for the router plate and use the screws available from Rockler etc. to level the plate. I *believe* I can do this, but to be honest I'm a total newb with a router, so I thought the Kreg "no rabbit" levelers would be easier than trying to route the rabbited recess for the plate. The last option I can think of is to build the top out of two pieces of 3/4" MDF and then rabbit or recess the bottom of the table top in some way so as to allow the plate levelers to work correctly.

 

So for right now the biggest question I have is how would you guys suggest I build the top? I have several more questions about the top, specifically attaching the hardwood edging to the MDF table top, but I realize this is already a long post, so I'll stop here. If someone can help me decide on what thickness to make my router table top, and if I should use the Kreg plate levelers or more traditional plate leveler screws, I would really appreciate it. Oh, and if I use the more traditional plate levelers, or for that matter the Kreg levelers, is just having one in each corner sufficient, or why wouldn't it be better to have at least two more, one each in the center of the longest side of the router plate? To me it makes sense to add some leveler screws to middle of the longest sides of the router plate, but I've yet to see plans that incorporate this, so perhaps my thinking is flawed (wouldn't be the first time!). Any ideas?

 

I'm sorry this is such a long post, but it's a big "first real" project to me, and I want to be sure I do it right. Any constructive thoughts or opinions you folks have would be very welcome to me. Thank you in advance for your consideration of my project and questions!

 

-TheWoodShouter

[Eric.]

It sounds like you're getting a little hung up on adhering to the plans.  This is woodworking...you can do whatever you want.  If you need to deviate from a set of plans to accommodate your personal, customized touches, then do it.  Use a set of plans as a general idea for an end goal...dimensions, ideas for joinery, the look, whatever aspects you like.  But don't feel like you have to follow them to a tee...take it in whatever direction you want.  Make changes, do your own thing.  It's YOUR table, not Norm's and not Dan Phalen's.  If you need to use a rabbet (e, not i ) to accommodate the plate you've chosen, then use a rabbet.  If you're not comfortable with that technique, either return that plate and get another one, or dive right in, make a few mistakes, and LEARN that technique.  You're gonna make mistakes.  If you're not trying new things and making mistakes, you're not learning.  Keep asking questions (shorter posts will yield more responses), and dive in head first.

[woodbutcher74]

I built Norm's deluxe router station. I used a Bench Dog aluminium plate with the Rockler levelers. If you get the template for the plate routing the recess is easy. I still have the template and will probably never use it again. You're more than welcome to it. Let me know. The casters are a good idea, will probably add some to mine one of these days. All in all the project isn't bad. Break it down into sub assemblies and take your time.

[TheWoodShouter]

quoteIt sounds like you're getting a little hung up on adhering to the plans.  This is woodworking...you can do whatever you want.  If you need to deviate from a set of plans to accommodate your personal, customized touches, then do it.  Use a set of plans as a general idea for an end goal...dimensions, ideas for joinery, the look, whatever aspects you like.  But don't feel like you have to follow them to a tee...take it in whatever direction you want.  Make changes, do your own thing.  It's YOUR table, not Norm's and not Dan Phalen's.  If you need to use a rabbet (e, not i ) to accommodate the plate you've chosen, then use a rabbet.  If you're not comfortable with that technique, either return that plate and get another one, or dive right in, make a few mistakes, and LEARN that technique.  You're gonna make mistakes.  If you're not trying new things and making mistakes, you're not learning.  Keep asking questions (shorter posts will yield more responses), and dive in head first.

 

Thank you very much for your reply, and for correcting the misspelling of "rabbet". See, I told you I'm a newb ;-) I'm not trying to get hung up on the plans themselves, I know I can use them as a guide and build my own table to my preferences. But my biggest first question is how thick to make the top; 1-1/4" plus the laminate top, or 1-1/2" plus the laminate top. This consideration really comes down to should I use the "traditional" plate leveling screws like Norm used on his table build, or the Kreg brand levelers that only work on table tops up to 1-1/5" thick? If I use the "traditional" levelers I need to cut that rabbeted shelf. If I use the Kreg levelers I can just cut a correctly sized opening of for the router plate. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

-TheWoodShouter

[TheWoodShouter]

I built Norm's deluxe router station. I used a Bench Dog aluminium plate with the Rockler levelers. If you get the template for the plate routing the recess is easy. I still have the template and will probably never use it again. You're more than welcome to it. Let me know. The casters are a good idea, will probably add some to mine one of these days. All in all the project isn't bad. Break it down into sub assemblies and take your time.

Thank you very much for your reply and for your generous offer to let me use the template for your Bench Dog plate insert, but I have already purchased the Kreg brand router plate insert kit. The Kreg kit comes with dimensions, instructions, and there's even online videos available that detail how to cut the opening and install the plate using some scrap 1x3's as guides. I'm just trying to decide if I should use their plate levelers, which I've already bought, but could easily return, or if I should use the "regular" leveling screws you can buy from Rockler and elsewhere.

 

By the way, do you have a pic or two of the router table you built? I'd love to see what you came up with.

 

And I will add that I am in no hurry, I do want to take my time and hopefully have this project come out right. One thing I like is that since this is mostly plywood and MDF, if I screw up a part it's not the end of the world, I can pretty much just toss it on the scrap pile and cut a new part. 

 

Thanks very much, I definitely appreciate all the help and tips!!

 

-TheWoodShouter

[missioninwood]

I have used the Kreg plate levelers with a 1.5" top with no issues.  They are a great product.  IMO, i would plan to keep your table and fence cheap and simple and save for a router lift: that's where you get the bang for your buck.

 

miw

[Byrdie]

To answer your basic question about the top, I'd pair a .75 with a .5 and be done with it.  The extra bit of .75 you have will find a use down the line.

[wdwerker]

I would put big drawers in the base instead of doors. Jigs, feather boards and all sorts of accessories are easier to find in a drawer.

[TheWoodShouter]

I would put big drawers in the base instead of doors. Jigs, feather boards and all sorts of accessories are easier to find in a drawer.

Thanks for the reply! I agree with you about the drawers. In fact, the two sets of plans I have been talking about both incorporate a sliding bit holder storage drawer, but I may even replace those with just regular drawers. I think I'll try to keep the router bits in their original packaging, for as long as that packaging holds up, and then keep those boxes in drawers in the router table cabinet. Thanks again for stopping by and for your help!

 

-TWS

[TheWoodShouter]

To answer your basic question about the top, I'd pair a .75 with a .5 and be done with it.  The extra bit of .75 you have will find a use down the line.

That's exactly what I'm thinking now. This way I can simply cut the opening to size for the Kreg router plate, and then use the Kreg levelers and be well within their working range of top thickness, even with the addition of the laminate sheet top. At first I thought having the extra thickness would be beneficial, but on top of the cabinet I don't think sagging will be an issue.

 

edit: Here's a stupid newbie question I'm sure, but what kind of screws should I use to attach the two pieces of MDF together? Would I use basic wood screws, or something else? And what size/length of screw would be best if I'm using a 3/4" and a 1/2" piece of MDF? I'm thinking 3/4" long #6 or #8 wood screws countersunk to just below the surface of the MDF. Is that about right?

 

Thanks a lot for the advice!

 

-TWS

[TheWoodShouter]

I have used the Kreg plate levelers with a 1.5" top with no issues.  They are a great product.  IMO, i would plan to keep your table and fence cheap and simple and save for a router lift: that's where you get the bang for your buck.

 

miw

OK, I have a question about router lifts, I hope it's OK to ask here. The router I got includes a way to adjust the height from above the table. What else does a router lift do that I can't do already? I know just from reading other people's posts that the lifts are very desirable, but I guess I'm not sure why. To be honest, I've been considering getting a 3+hp router to live in this table. Would I be better off to get a lift instead of a new router? I Currently have the Milwaukee 2.25 plunge/fixed base kit router.

 

Thank very much for your help!

 

-TWS

[..Kev]

I wish I had better answers for you but, I've never seen or used the set up you're considering.

 

I have a Jessem Table and lift with the big Porter Cable router in it and couldn't be happier!  There are times where I do wish there was some storage in the base but, I just love the way the table works.

 

In the end, you'll need to decide what you want and how you want it to work.  For me, there is nothing better than changing the bit above the table.

[TheWoodShouter]

I wish I had better answers for you but, I've never seen or used the set up you're considering.

 

I have a Jessem Table and lift with the big Porter Cable router in it and couldn't be happier!  There are times where I do wish there was some storage in the base but, I just love the way the table works.

 

In the end, you'll need to decide what you want and how you want it to work.  For me, there is nothing better than changing the bit above the table.

Hey, thanks for your reply and for your advice! To be honest, I think I need a basic overview of what a router table lift does, and why are they so great? At this point I feel kind of invested in my Milwaukee router, and building my own table and top around the Kreg brand table insert plate. But, I'm pretty sure that Kreg makes a table lift kit that gets good reviews, would I be wise to look into something like that before spending money elsewhere, like upgrading to a more powerful router for example?

 

Thanks very much, this is all very helpful and appreciated!!

 

-TheWoodShouter

[..Kev]

For starters, there is absolutely nothing wrong with building your own table!  If fact, hats off to you for going that way.

 

The router you have is a good router and will probably serve you well for a long long time.

 

For me, the lift opened a whole new world on the router table.  To not have to crawl under the table to change bits or make height adjustments was huge!  I did that for a couple years before going to the lift and am so happy that I did.

 

For me, the router table is no longer a pain in the back side to do what I want to do.  Now, because it's so easy, I usually kick myself for not going to it sooner.

 

You'll never regret a lift!  As long as it works with your router, you'll never regret it.

 

With that said, if you're considering going to a bigger router (like the Porter Cable), Just make sure that the lift you invest in will also work with that router.  If it won't, then you have some decisions to make.

[wdwerker]

All of the routers with built in above the table adjustments that I have played with have substantial slop/ lag/ give in the height mechanism. You have to turn a fair bit before it starts moving, same with lowering. This gets frustrating. My older router table has one made by Freud like this.

My lift will shift 1/256 th by just barely moving the crank handle up or down it doesn't seem to matter.It is an older Kreg lift that doesn't even have a lock on it. I often have to try to reproduce a raised panel door or molding for clients and the closer I get the less room they have to complain.

[missioninwood]

Before it's all over you will end up with several routers, trust me.  Having a motor in the table and one ready for hand held work is a necessity, as far as I am concerned.  I actually have five routers.  Not bragging'  Just sayin'. 

 

The lift will really save your life when you have an elaborate set-up on the table and lifting the top, or climbing under to loosen the motor to turn it (or whatever) will ruin your set-up.  Being able to make a fine adjustment to the tune of 1/64" on the fly practically instantly is a life saver.  When you are doing T&G, Rail and Stile, Box Joints, and many other "advanced" operations nothing else compares to this level of precision.

 

miw

[Beechwood Chip]

what kind of screws should I use to attach the two pieces of MDF together? 

glue

[Byrdie]

Beechwood beat me to it - glue your two sheets together.  No screws needed and they'd likely be a hazard.  You're going to laminate your top on as well.

 

What a router lift does is eliminate the need for one of your bases to be incorporated into the table.  Basically you strap only the motor into the lift and then do your raising and lowering (height adjustment) with the lift rather than adjusting the position of the motor in the base.  It's cleaner, probably easier to use, and probably a bit more precise.

[wdwerker]

It is a wise idea to laminate both sides of your top. It's called balanced construction. If you look at a sheet of plywood there is always and odd number of ply's . When you glue up your top it becomes one ply, add laminate to both sides to keep the assembly balanced.

The bottom piece can be ugly but it does serve a purpose. It also will make your top stiffer, and stay flatter. MDF can absorb moisture and swell or sag.

If you contact most cabinet shops they usually have plenty of old, ugly or no longer in demand laminate scraps that can be had for little or nothing .

They even make laminate called backer sheets, it's usually brown or white and doesn't have the slick face layer(melamine)

[Eric.]

To paraphrase Willy Loman...a router table without a lift is not a router table.

 

Well, it is.  It does the same thing it would do without one...but it takes all the fun out of it.

[TheWoodShouter]

glue

Well, I should have mentioned I'd be using glue, of course, but in his video Norm uses screws (and glue) to hold the pieces of MDF together, and he advises that you position the screws so they will not interfere with the cutting of the recess for the plate, etc. Is this wrong?

 

Thanks!

 

-TWS

[TheWoodShouter]

What a router lift does is eliminate the need for one of your bases to be incorporated into the table.  Basically you strap only the motor into the lift and then do your raising and lowering (height adjustment) with the lift rather than adjusting the position of the motor in the base.  It's cleaner, probably easier to use, and probably a bit more precise.

OK, but I thought that part of the benefit to using the router table insert plate is that the plate, router, and all can simply be lifted out of the table to change bits. Am I missing something? Sorry, but I've just never had a clear idea what the lift does for you, though I've always read how happy people were who have them. So lets say you had an extra +/- $400 to spend, would you guys suggest a lift for this table, or a more powerful router first?

 

Thanks again for all the help!

 

-TheWoodShouter

[TheWoodShouter]

Before it's all over you will end up with several routers, trust me.  Having a motor in the table and one ready for hand held work is a necessity, as far as I am concerned.  I actually have five routers.  Not bragging'  Just sayin'. 

 

The lift will really save your life when you have an elaborate set-up on the table and lifting the top, or climbing under to loosen the motor to turn it (or whatever) will ruin your set-up.  Being able to make a fine adjustment to the tune of 1/64" on the fly practically instantly is a life saver.  When you are doing T&G, Rail and Stile, Box Joints, and many other "advanced" operations nothing else compares to this level of precision.

 

miw

AS far as owning several routers, I have already discovered that that's what most woodworkers do. I have the brand new Milwaulkee combo, I have an older Craftsman 1.25hp fixed, and I was already considering a 3+hp router for this table, as well as a smaller trim router eventually. I do understand that it's worth it to be able to keep them setup for a specific task and not to have to switch back and forth between setups, which leads to errors. The only problem now is that I'm not sure if I'm better off to look into the lift or a new router first.

 

Thanks again for your help!

 

-TWS

[Eric.]

The lift makes it possible to do bit changes and depth of cut changes above the table without removing the plate or bending over to make the changes underneath the table.  It's a convenience thing, that's it.

[TheWoodShouter]

It is a wise idea to laminate both sides of your top. It's called balanced construction. If you look at a sheet of plywood there is always and odd number of ply's . When you glue up your top it becomes one ply, add laminate to both sides to keep the assembly balanced.

The bottom piece can be ugly but it does serve a purpose. It also will make your top stiffer, and stay flatter. MDF can absorb moisture and swell or sag.

If you contact most cabinet shops they usually have plenty of old, ugly or no longer in demand laminate scraps that can be had for little or nothing .

They even make laminate called backer sheets, it's usually brown or white and doesn't have the slick face layer(melamine)

Thank you yet again for your help with my project! It seems wise to me to laminate the underside of the top as well, I had even thought of this myself if nothing else but for practice with the laminate. But, if I do that and use the 3/4" thick and 1/2" thick MDF pieces plus a 1/8" or so laminate sheet on each side, plus any adhesive or anything and I'm going to be at or slightly over the 1-1/2" maximum top thickness the Kreg table levelers suggest. So then I'd be back to the whole dilemma of using the Kreg levelers or not. Is the extra lamination on the underside of the top an absolute necessity in this case considering the whole top will be secured to the cabinet stand below? Shouldn't the cabinet itself minimize any flexing, warping, or movement of the top anyway? In his plans, Norm uses blocks attached to the underside of the top that articulate with the base and hold the top in place with "friction and gravity", as Norm himself says. I wasn't too thrilled with that arrangement, and I had planed on screwing or bolting the top to the base cabinet without glue so I could remove it if I had to. The hope was that the top would stay perfectly flat and secured to the cabinet. What do you think?

 

Thanks so much for your help!

 

-TheWoodShouter