Supermax 19-38


Shane Jimerfield

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  • 2 weeks later...

Damn, that thing is heavy. Well made too. I got it all setup. The directions were about 90% straight forward. Ran some rough sawn pine through it to see what it could do. It did well, and I took it to180 grit.

I built a little garden bench -pics later- and didn't use the power planer at all for surfacing...just for kicks and giggles. The board's surfaces aren't perfectly parallel, but really close, and no one will ever know the difference.

I think I'm going to like this machine. Changing the paper is not too bad, and I think I'll get quicker after a few more changes. I also don't recommend using for smoothing rough sawn boards. If you have a planer use that, then use this too sand it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I've been using for a bit now and thought I'd share my experience.

 

When using 100 and lower grit the thing excels and really is a work horse. I've gone at pine, maple and oak with it. And it has no problems. The auto feature for slowing the feed is really great.

 

When using finer paper you really have to be careful about how much you are trying to take off - the paper can get really gummed up if you take too much. At 180 and above you really need to be just fine sanding - that is not really taking anything off rather just touching the surface.

 

A couple of things that really help:

1) Keep it clean. Clean the paper after every use - and even during use if you are running many boards. If you use one of those cleaning sticks, like I do, make sure you get all that gummy crap off the paper, the machine and the table. It can really make a mess of things if you don't

2) Dust collection is important. Did I mention DUST COLLECTION - if I didn't - remember IT'S SUPER IMPORTANT. not just for your lungs and shop, but for the paper and table. you need to make sure your system can pull enough air to clear that thing.

 

Question: do any of you have experience with those cleaning sticks? Got any tips on how to use them well, and which brands are best?

 

Cheers,

Shane

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About as fine as I go on a drum sander is 120. I go higher up with my hand DA sanders.

 

Higher grits do tend to burn. 

 

I use those cleaning sticks on occasion, just to quickly clean the paper. However, they don't remove burns. Good drum sander paper can be washed in a sink. I use an orange cleaner and a scrub brush, finger nails to remove burns.

 

Rinse the paper off and hang to dry. 

 

-Ace-

 

P.S. that is the beauty of a drum sander...dead flat square wood. Play around and get that baby tuned up.  ;)

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.004 to .006, that is about as thin as human hair maybe?  

 

-Ace-

 

Could be don't really know but thats why folks run into issues. This is why most dual drums have no issue with going all the way down to 220. Most have a micro adjustment on the outfeed drum, some have presets for specific grits. Im sure if folks just looked at their lead screw and turned it ever so slightly burning would be less of an issue even for single drums.

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Oh I use mine for thicknessing as well. But I use coarser paper and still take about 1/64 max in each pass. You have to watch the sandpaper and clean it when it shows any sign of loading up. But I usually saw pieces to within 1/16 to 1/8 then sand from there.

This works better than planing on curly grain and splinter prone woods.

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