Dentil Jig and how to make dentile moulding

[ffs1973@gmail.com]

Hello. 

 

I was wondering if anybody had a idea on how to make dentle molding. I have just recently finiched my Jugent home and are going to install a 3 piece crownmolding on the wall/ceeling. But I need a lot of dentile mouling at least 120-150 ft.

 

So it will bee a major pain to make all those teeth. How can i do this so that it does't take all of 2015  

 

I also have planes to make a paint pipe dipping system so that I can get quick paint inn all the teeth corners. But that is another matter. 

 

I would appriciate if anybody could give mee pointers. I have a fully equiped woodshop, with saws, routers etc. 

 

Best regards Norway. 

T.Robertsen

 

[Dave H]

I'd make it along the same lines as a box joint jig with a fence on my miter gauge on my table saw. Screw on the fence to miter gauge with your dado blade set to the width and height make a cut through the fence make a pin that fits the cut glue pin into the cut unscrew fence move the fence over twice the width of the pin screw fence back onto the miter gauge make first cut in your work piece butted into the pin put the cut in the work piece over the pin rinse repeat wahla dental molding. 

[wdwerker]

I built an adjustable finger joint jig from Shop Notes plans years ago. If you cut the notches in wider blanks you can rip strips and save some time. You can buy dentil mold, it's a lot of work to make ! I only made mine because I needed cherry dentil with a full tooth at each corner to get a perfect miter. Adjusting the size of the tooth was easier than adjusting the size of the dado to cut the notch.

[wtnhighlander]

Dentil mouldings I have seen are usually part of a more complex profile. I woukd suggest what Hightron said, but cut the dentil as a seperate strip, and glue it onto a backing with the remainder of the profile.

[Eric.]

I have dentil molding on the front gable of my house that needs to be replaced.  It's a bit larger than interior molding so this method may not work as well for you...but I planned to simply cut a bunch of little blocks and glue them onto a long, straight piece.  Send the whole thing through a planer or drum sander, and done.  I think it would be awkward and slow to create the "teeth" on a table saw or router table, since the pieces will be so long.  I wouldn't have the space to pull that off in my shop, maybe you do.  But I think just gluing the teeth on will be just as fast if not faster.  Mine will be painted so grain matching won't matter.  If you're not painting, I might look for a technique like higtron's or Steve's.

[ffs1973@gmail.com]

Hello.Thanks for ideas  

 

I have been thinking of this and I am going to try the following. I did not get to upload images here so I put them on a web site I have, not much yet but the images is here. (http://www.farsflisespikkeri.com/nye.html) 

 

I will cut 3/4" plywood strips at 2" high. I will make a jig like a box, that has sides with pre made notches in it that will give me accurate spacing. Then the straight edge part will pop in to these notches.

 

For clamping I am going to try something I have done before with a firehose. Basickally it is a hose that i have a car tire valve in one end of, and has a closed end in the other. Then I just inflate this with my compressor until correct clamping preassure is assured. These firehoses can take 8-10 bars with out no problem. My last use was with a irregular shape, and it worked well. 

 

Anyway, when all is cut, stacked and clamped it is about 60 dados to make, but as in my picture I can easy make 50-60 pieces with dentile molding strips about 400-500feet in total length. They will be a part of a 3 piece molding in my house  

 

This is what I have come up with, but please comment and give mee more inputt I will try and take pictures and maybe a video of this if it works ha ha ha.

 

Best regards Torgeir Robertsen. 

[wdwerker]

Sound idea! Fire hose works in odd shapes, I have done it in the past !

You might need to make more than one pass with the router to get a clean cut depending on the size of the dado and type of wood. At a minimum the final cut of a 1/16th or so will leave a much cleaner surface and keep splinters and blow out to a minimum.

Attaching a shop vac will help keep the chips cleared, otherwise you will need to constantly be blowing or sweeping the path clear.

[ffs1973@gmail.com]

Sound idea! Fire hose works in odd shapes, I have done it in the past !

You might need to make more than one pass with the router to get a clean cut depending on the size of the dado and type of wood. At a minimum the final cut of a 1/16th or so will leave a much cleaner surface and keep splinters and blow out to a minimum.

Attaching a shop vac will help keep the chips cleared, otherwise you will need to constantly be blowing or sweeping the path clear.

 

Thanks for the inputt. 

 

I think I will go for a tooth 20mm wide, 25 mm deep and 20mm spacing between. So I had planned to do this in one go, but I need to adjust as I go. 

You are correct this will make a lot of chips I might even put the hole arrangement on a angle? Maybe 30° so they will more or less fall off ?? But I do have a very good woodcollection so it might not be nescessary. 

 

I haven't used and dont own a spiral bit, but now is maby a good time to invest in a couple of good whiteside bits. But down or up cut ??  

 

Best regards.

TR

[wdwerker]

An up cut router bit will cut faster and clear the chips better. It may leave slight splintering on the surface due to the upwards cutting action. A down cut router bit will leave a cleaner surface but it can tend to pack the chips into the cut, and it cuts a little slower as well.

I use a down cut spiral to cut the grooves for drawer bottoms using a powerfeeder . It leaves a clean surface but with just a 1/4" x 1/4" cut it tries to pack the chips in pretty tight. It's not that easy to blow out with compressed air so I just run them through twice and the second pass clears the chips.

If you got a slightly smaller diameter up cut bit to plough out the majority of the dado and followed it with a 20mm down cut you would probably get excellent results. You might have to make 2 passes if you can't get the right diameter bit.

It may take some practice to figure out your best method to use the jig. A vac, compressed air, brushes and hearing protection would be smart to have handy.

[Tom King]

I've done it with a radial arm saw, dado blade, special purpose carrier fence with front and back backup, a drop in place holder a ways away from the blade, and a couple of helpers.  I run the saw, one guy advances the piece,and the third helper fine adjusts, and drops the place holder in the cut slot.  It goes fairly quickly after a few timing hiccups on a practice piece.

[weithman5]

i avoid dentists