Singer Sewing Machine cabinet


heamercer

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Hello, I am brand new to restoring anything and I have recently aquired a singer sewing machine in its original cabinet. It was built in 1919 and appears to be made of oak (much of it is veneer though). It looks like it was finished at one time (I don't know if that was the factory finish or something added over time) but it only really remains in the grooves. Everything else looks like bare wood. I would like to protect and preserve this as a family heirloom but I will also be sewing with the machine.  I have been doing some research and based on what I am reading it sounds like doing a linsead oil rub followed by a beeswax coating would be best.  In order to do that I assume I need to sand or strip off the finish that is left in the grooves for the best result. I am not sure what to use. What grit of sandpaper would you recommend or would you strip it chemically instead? If so, what would you use? 

 

Additionally there are a couple rings on the top of the cabinet. They aren't horrible but I would like to try to work them out if I am able to. I have read that after a peice is oiled you can try rubbing it with butter to pull out stains.  What are the chances of that working on this peice and what is the risk of damage?

 

Lastly,  there are some dents and dings on one end on the rounded edge of the top cover. If something can be done to smooth it out a bit without harm I would like to know what it is.

 

Thank you so much. I look forward to seeing what you have to say about this.

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If you want to 'restore' the appearance of the piece, then removing all the old finish is a good idea. Citrus-based strippers seem to work well from what I read here. Be patient and let the stripper have time to soften the old finish before you gently scrape it away. Use a putty knife on large flat surfaces, and a bristle brush (plastic or maybe brass, not steel !!!) in the nooks and crannies. On a veneered piece, sanding must be done very carefully to avoid wearing through the thin outer layer.

Dents can be reduced or eliminated by placing a damp cloth over the dent, and using a clothes iron to apply heat. Steam causes the crushed wood fibers to swell, often enough to make the dent completely disappear. Use caution, as too much heat and moisture can also cause the veneer to de-laminate.To prepare the surface for new finish, you can probably start with 100 or even 120 grit paper, and work up to maybe 180. Remove all the sanding dust, apply stain if desired, then your final finish.

Personally, I like antiques that look old, so I would probably just do a thorough dry cleaning to remove dirt and any loose flakes of finish. Also a light sanding of any areas that have enough damage to raise splinters. I would then wipe on thin coats of shellac, which adhears to other finishes quite well. Repeat the application until the desired thickness and sheen is achieved.

Since you plan to use the machine for sewing, the shellac will be ready to go much sooner than oil and wax. Shellac cures to a hard surface in just a couple of hours, whereas oil can take weeks to completely cure. I would think the risk of staining your cloth will be greater if oil and wax are used.

Oh, you can also use shellac on the iron legs and treadle mechanism of the machine to seal any light rust and prevent further rust scale from forming. Just brush off any loose scale first.

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If you are going for cleaned up but not perfect I have had good luck with " Howard Restor a finish " follow the directions on the can. Try it in a less visible spot first. It comes in different colors which helps with scratches and rings. It ain't perfect but it helps and it's pretty easy to use.

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Thank you both very much for the advise. I was familiar with the steam trick but I hadn't thought about the delamination. I am not familiar with the Howard Restor a finish product. I'll take a look at it.

 

 I must admit I am a little concerned about putting a shelac on it because I can not guarantee a constant temperature around the peice. I live in rural Montana. The temperature here changes drasitically and the peice will be in a wood stove heated environment for at least part of its life. My parents had a singer and they used a thick hard clear coat on it. It ripped itself apart due to their extreme living conditions. Theirs were much more extreme than mine will be but I can't see what the future will bring for it so my thought is to use as much of the original care techniques on it as I can. Afterall, it has made it 97 years without my help. I just want to make sure it will survive the next 97 as well as it did the first.

 

Has anyone on the forum tried an oil and wax finish? I am curious about any hickups you may have run into.

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I use a blo/spar varnish (epifanes)/mineral spirits blend (about equal parts of each) for outdoor furniture because it's a sturdy yet flexible finish that holds up under weather variations that outdoor furniture is exposed to... and although it's not really designed for indoor stuff the flexibility of the spar varnish might ease your worry about big temperature and humidity variation you may get inside.  be curious about what others have to say about that though. 

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