A better tapering jig, part 2

[collinb]

My first quick-and-dirty attempt was deemed scary by someone.

This one is better.  Covers a 2 ft distance.

The little tab at the back is 1/4 inch thick, enough to push the piece securely.

On the front is where I put a block that determines the bevel thickness and distance (which sets the angle of the taper).

Though far from perfect it is far better than my first one.

I even added a little handle on the back.

 

 

[Janello]

Collin, at the risk of sounding insensitive...you should really look into proven plans for a taper jig "sled". There are a ton of them on the internet and at your local book store.. You are going to lose a finger if you keep using things that are thrown together that don't stand the test of time. That 1/4 inch stop with staples in it is not sufficient and the design over the fence will not work- It will expand and contract with the weather, making it impossible to move, too tight or way to loose. Worse, you have nothing holding that leg to your jig. Taper jigs need clamps....google them.

 

You may also consider buying one. A good taper jig is not cheap, but they are chock full of features that might be hard to incorporate for even a seasoned woodworker.

[wtnhighlander]

Here is an example that is pretty straight forward, not complicated or expensive to build:

Making A Taper Jig For The Table Saw: http://youtu.be/H7QWLfcEsz4

[JohnDi]

You can also look on YouTube for norms episodes on jigs.

His taper jig is easy to build and works fine. I built mine from plywood scraps and the only hardware is a small hinge and a carriage bolt.

[Rapid Roger]

Here is a design that I found in WOOD magazine (I think?). I like it because it is small, lightweight, adjustable for a lot of angles, and can be used to true up boards with roughcut or curved edges. 

Some plywood and a few knobs and small carriage bolts and BOB'S YOUR UNCLE!

 

 

I've been using mine for about seven years now and have no desire for any other jig unless I make another one of these a bit longer.

 

Rog 

[collinb]

Collin, at the risk of sounding insensitive...you should really look into proven plans for a taper jig "sled". There are a ton of them on the internet and at your local book store.. You are going to lose a finger if you keep using things that are thrown together that don't stand the test of time. That 1/4 inch stop with staples in it is not sufficient and the design over the fence will not work- It will expand and contract with the weather, making it impossible to move, too tight or way to loose. Worse, you have nothing holding that leg to your jig. Taper jigs need clamps....google them.

 

You may also consider buying one. A good taper jig is not cheap, but they are chock full of features that might be hard to incorporate for even a seasoned woodworker.

 

You're not being insensitive at all.

I think of this as part of the learning experience.  I try once and it works but not well.  So I do it a second time after some though and ti works well but is certainly not refined in any sense.  The items shown have different features and benefits.  It's the way I learn -- try, fail, evaluate, redo.  It's what makes/keeps things fun, at least for me.

[Janello]

I'm with ya Collin. I made my first crosscut sled for the table saw and figured I could throw the blade on a 45 deg angle and use it for both purposes. Problem is, small cut offs fall into the v channel I created and the blade wants to throw them toward my head at mach speed! Quickly did I realize, that Jig was fire wood. 

[collinb]

And I also have a growing box of firewood!

[Janello]

lol. Better than a growing hospital bill!

[RichardA]

Collin, I'm not trying to talk you out of building jigs, I'm trying to help!  Go to Rockler, or Lee Valley, check in their catalogs and see what their tapering jigs look like, then see if you can replicate something that will work for you. When you do find one that you feel comfortable with, be sure to get some clamps that will hold your work piece in place!  And please don't use staples to build, they are not strong enough to hold anything that may get hung up on a blade. Kickback, can be very painful!  I know, when I was young I took a large piece in the chest and broke 2 ribs.. Small pieces can cost you an eye.   Safety has to be paramount!   My shop teacher told me "love your fingers", and after the rib experience, I love my fingers, every damn one of them!