Dowel Coring/Boring/Sleeving

[Eric Filson]

I'm not entirely sure this is the correct forum for this but since it does involve some turning... here goes

 

I am wondering if it is possible to core / bore (not sure the correct term here as I'm completely new to woodworking) a 22.22mm hole through a 1" dowel. This will be sleeved with a 22.22mm OD 304 stainless steel pipe. This, of course, only leaves about 1/8" wall thickness on the dowel and that seems like it might be a little too thin. Also, I've read from many suppliers that dowel thickness could potentially be 1/32" smaller than 1" which would not work with such a small margin of error already.

 

I was thinking Option B would be to core/bore a larger diameter dowel, sleeve it, and then turn it down to the desired thickness (1" overall).

 

I should also mention the dowel length will be approx. 3". 

 

Thanks in advance for any help / advice! 

[wdwerker]

I would think drill and sleeve a 1 1/4" square blank then put it on a mandrel and turn it down to the size you need. The mandrel would need to fit the inside of the sleeve exactly .

22.22mm= approx 7/8" which should work. I have never seen a 22.22 mm bit.

Maybe a metal lathe could bore a hole that size with a boring bar but I bet it would take a whole lot of skill.

Or maybe you could wrap some veneer around the sleeve. If you bevel the leading edge ,then wrap , you could sand it smooth easier than trying to make a perfect seam. Rubber bands could serve as clamps.

[Tpt life]

This is precisely what is done to turn pens. The thickness of the outside turning is dependent on the stability of the medium leading some mediums to be resin impregnated.

[Eric Filson]

Thank you both for the quick replies, very much appreciated!

 

 

I would think drill and sleeve a 1 1/4" square blank then put it on a mandrel and turn it down to the size you need. The mandrel would need to fit the inside of the sleeve exactly .
22.22mm= approx 7/8" which should work. I have never seen a 22.22 mm bit.
Maybe a metal lathe could bore a hole that size with a boring bar but I bet it would take a whole lot of skill.
Or maybe you could wrap some veneer around the sleeve. If you bevel the leading edge ,then wrap , you could sand it smooth easier than trying to make a perfect seam. Rubber bands could serve as clamps.

 

7/8" should work great, I think I was just auto converting to metric on the site I was viewing Does the 1 1/4" square blank hold an advantage over 1 1/4" round; even though it's more material to remove?

 

In regards to the veneer; I'd like it to be seamless, and I plan to cut inlay pockets (cnc) so I don't think veneer is an option for me. 

 

 

This is precisely what is done to turn pens. The thickness of the outside turning is dependent on the stability of the medium leading some mediums to be resin impregnated.

 

This process would definitely be very similar to pens. I was thinking of using ebony and african blackwood, so those should hold up nicely, I hope

[wtnhighlander]

One advantage to using a square blank is being easier to hold and center, unless you are boring it on the lathe rather than a drill press.

[Mike M]

You probably won't find a mandrel that fits the ID of the pipe.

 

Drill the square blank to 7/8" then epoxy the pipe into the block. Put a scrap of wood in a chuck and turn to a point. Mount the block with pipe between the wood point and a 60 degree live center in the tailstock. Turn away.