Power cord


trz

Recommended Posts

Actually, one of the cheapest way to get wire is purchasing a 25ft - 12g extension cord and just remove one end... About the only way to get 12g for less than $1/ft -- unless you get a 500ft spool.

 

 

Not to mention, you can buy both male and female connectors and make multiple cords from one extension!  I find short, 3'-8', cords very useful around the shop.    You don't need 12ga. for shorties, though.  14ga is fine... 

 

Short cords are great with things like foot switches and auto switches, to get everything where you want it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 g fine for 220?

 

Wire gauge is about current, as in amps, not voltage.   The same tool will draw less current on 240 than it will on 120, which is one big reason to use the higher voltage.

 

If the writing on side of the wire is rated for more than what you need, you're fine. Most of the time, you'll see at least 480v, likely even a 600v, rating on the wire, so you'll be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the restuarant world I always had a cord made and wired in and never allowed extension cords. They always end up on the floor and send janitors to the hospital when they mop over them and get electrocuted. Also have seen them get pulled apart enough that they arc and that can cause a fire. And I always had them add 3-5' for extra just in case. Never heard any one complain that longer wasn't better.

 

Chef 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't mean to hijack, but I have a very similar question and issue. I just had 220 ran through the shop. Bought a bunch of 12ga line and twist lock plugs.  running the new line to the machine (vs. making an extension), it looks like I have to run the new cable in through body of saw, out to the switch. That new line will be 12ga, whereas I think the rest is 14ga. This would be the right way to do it, yeah? Connect to the switch, re wire motor leads, and away we go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't mean to hijack, but I have a very similar question and issue. I just had 220 ran through the shop. Bought a bunch of 12ga line and twist lock plugs.  running the new line to the machine (vs. making an extension), it looks like I have to run the new cable in through body of saw, out to the switch. That new line will be 12ga, whereas I think the rest is 14ga. This would be the right way to do it, yeah? Connect to the switch, re wire motor leads, and away we go?

 

Either way is fine. You can chop the cord and install a twist lock or hardwire directly. Officially all wires should be clamped. The twist lock is a clamp by nature as is the clamp on the box. What you don't want to do is run the wire through the box without clamping to the box opening.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

==>inspector requires they be unplugged at night. If you ever have a fire this would not help

That's why God invented twist lock :)

 

Like PB, my machines have local disconnects -- it's one of the very few safety rules in my shop -- when changing a blade or performing maintenance, the machine must be de-energized. For low-amp-iron, that's unplugging for high-amp and/or 3-phase, that means a disconect. As a reminder to WTO members, magnetic switches can also engage if the machine gets a good stiff bang... I do not use extension cords at any time in the shop. I ran dedicated branches to the machine's location and changed the machine's plug (if the machine came with a cord) to twist lock. Note: larger machines and/or 3-phase don't have a cord/plug -- just a wiring block. The electrical inspector required all my disconnects for stationary machines be twist-lock for machines up to 30a and hard-wired disconect after that (I believe NEC cutoff is actually 40a/60a, but I forget -- and I wasn't going to argue -- I needed his chit more then he needed my custom). I think the change cost me about $400-$500 in male/female twist-lock pairs. The disconnects were about $175 each. In general, the outlet is within 5 feet from the machine. Each machine has a 15' 10g cord. The extra 10' of cord facilitates moving the machine for maintenance.

 

These are the primary items used to wire my shop from McMaster-Carr:

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7080k25/=u92puz
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7080k34/=u92qfb

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7081k84/=u966q2

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7081k25/=u967ae

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7081k82/=u967zu

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7081k35/=u967tj
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7162k53/=u92qui
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7162k55/=u92r1q
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7164k49/=u92rol
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7164k51/=u92rsr

 

I used Cutler-Hammer/Eaton safety disconnects:

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Electrical/ProductsandServices/ElectricalDistribution/SwitchesandDisconnects/SafetySwitches/GeneralDuty/Fusible-CartridgeFuse/index.htm

 

Hope some of this detail helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All my machines have Hubbell twist locks at the machine.  I have cords I made out of type SO wire that are 35 years old, and still just fine.   I harden the end of the wire with rosin core solder where it clamps into the plugs.  I don't remember ever having trouble with one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Either way is fine. You can chop the cord and install a twist lock or hardwire directly. Officially all wires should be clamped. The twist lock is a clamp by nature as is the clamp on the box. What you don't want to do is run the wire through the box without clamping to the box opening.

Thanks PB. My issue is that the existing cord isn't long enough to meet the outlet, so I can't just swap the male end of the plug. My plan was to use 10 feet of 12g cable and a couple twist locking ends.. but reading through this thread, in my mind, this makes it an 'extension' cord. yeah? Does hard wiring it into the switch vs having a male end there matter? I'll draw up a diagram to clarify. thanks for the feedback. This thread is definitely teaching me a few things. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My $.02..  If you're lengthening the cord, step up in wire gauge (or down, technically)..  Get a heavier cord to account for line loss.  I ran a new cord for my TS; it's 30' long (hardwired) so I am able to have flexibility on placement in the shop depending on what I have in there.  I believe I used 8 AWG on a 40A circuit..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SO is fine. I went SOOW and/or SEOOW. It's kind of overkill, but I do like the toughness of the thick jacket -- drop stock on the cord and it bairly scratches the jacket... Also below-grade electrics.

 

8AWG for 30'x40a sounds about right. Think you could have got away with 10AWG, but I agree with up-gauging with distance. There's a table in the NEC for up-gauging, but I believe it's based on 5% loss...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back when I built new houses, I always built the garage first, moved the stationary tools in, and used them to build the rest of the house.  Everything ran off a 100 amp temporary pole.  I had an inspector come by once who said there was so much SO wire on the ground that it looked like the County Fair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 59 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    421.8k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,757
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    R Parekh
    Newest Member
    R Parekh
    Joined