Sander gone wild

[forager]

I'm relatively new to finishing. In my research about sanding, I learned about sanding the sequence. I decided to start with 80-grit and work my way up. I guess a newcomer and 80-grit sandpaper are a poor match. As you can see in the picture, I took certain sections of the piece too far down: parts of the edges on top (pictured), and small areas on the front (not pictured).

 

I completed the sequence up through 220-grit. I then applied a coat of 1lb. dewaxed shellac (another online tip?), which I lightly sanded after it dried. I verified (and re-checked) that I removed any residual shellac;  I then removed the sawdust from the light sanding.

 

I used General Finishes gel stain on the piece, but have been unable to stain the edges and the sections of the front that I have alluded to. I've tried numerous light applications on the edges, hoping to gradually darken them--no improvement whatsoever. I tried coating the areas with gel stain, leaving it to dry for 24 hours, then lightly trying to remove it a layer at a time, using 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. That did not work. First, the thickened stain remained intact, then it would come off all at once, however lightly I rubbed. The attached picture shows the results of that effort.

 

One alternative: Sand the entire piece all the way down to match the edges, then stain that surface. However, I would lose the grain, if I were to do that, I would, in effect, change (ruin?) the character of the piece. Another alternative: Use a much darker stain. I have a can of Java Gel Stain, which is very dark. But I'm not sure that the edges would not still show much lighter than the rest. Final alternative: Strip the piece again and try to stain it a much lighter color than the walnut shown in the picture. (I'm clueless as to what would happen if I did that.)

 

Any effective ways to blend gel stain?

 

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[TerryMcK]

Looks like you have burnt through the veneer.

[wtnhighlander]

Have to agree with Terry. Looks like the edges are work down into the substrate layers of the ply. These will likely be a different wood species, and will have different grain orientation than the surface veneer.

My best suggestion for a repair / cover up is to get creative with some artist's colors and a fine tip brush. I've seen furniture repairs done this way that were very difficult to detect.

[duckkisser]

If you don't want to try and blend together with paint, stain ect.... Make it stand out even more. Maybe make the edges contrasting with a different colored wood. In my classroom the kids always are making mistakes but rather then let them start over or throw it out I make them change there original desighn. I tell them wood workers make mistakes good one cover them up and tell everyone they don't make mistakes. they wanted the project to look from the start.

[..Kev]

Since it's plywood, how difficult would it be to just replace the top?

 

Another option would be sand and install a new piece of veneer.

[chefmagnus@grics.net]

Been there done that. I attached a thin frame of contrasting wood to cover the burn throughs.

[forager]

Thanks to everyone. I'm going to consider all suggestions.  

 

Would it be feasible to brush in an oil-based stain (thinner, deeper penetrating non-gel) in the affected areas, apply something slightly lighter in shade than the antique walnut gel, let it dry, then cover that with the gel? I'm guessing that the deeper penetrating stain would more effectively cover the affected area. An obvious part of the problem is the great contrast in color between the sanded edge and the adjacent stained areas; there may also be a difference in the degree of porousness between the 2 areas. Perhaps scuffing the sanded area with 100-grit or 150-grit sandpaper will open the pores a little. Gel stain does not work on the area; maybe the deeper-penetrating stain will work.

 

I'm willing to put whatever time is necessary to fix the piece, and welcome the opportunity to learn. One obvious lesson: spend more time in a thoughtful preparation before starting.

[Dave H]

how about getting the top back to bare wood, router sled, sanding whatever gets you back to a smooth flat surface with no finish than glue a veneer skin to the top and refinish.

[Dave H]

Hardwood veneer plywood is usually sanded good enough to start sanding at a finer grit I would start at 150 grit and work my way down I usually just hand sand ROS's can roll the edges and burn through the finish veneer before you know it.

[forager]

higtron, thanks for replying. I was hoping that I could find a solution that was within my skill range. Of course, I will learn whatever I have to do the job correctly, including the installation of veneer skin or router sledding (whatever that is).

 

Unfortunately, there are a few small areas on the front and a couple of thin stretches along the edge of the sides to consider (not pictured). Given my experience and skill level, I don't know how feasible it would be to (patch?) all these areas with veneer strips--I suspect it would look like a walnut face with acne. Although the areas themselves are small, the top being the exception, both of the sides and the front would require fixing.

 

 

[Rick Mosher]

Lesson learned I hope, 80 grit doesn't belong on veneered wood.   Probably would have been better to use a chemical stripper to remove the finish and then sand with 180 grit. As a solution to your new problem how about a starburst type finish? Stain the top a light color and tone a dark area around where you burned through the veneer similar to a starburst finish on a guitar.

Here is a video doing the effect with aerosol cans. (It can be done many different ways)

[forager]

Rick, Wow! Thanks for the link. It's a much bigger woodfinishing world than I had imagined. I'd like to learn that technique.

However, my wife wants the piece returned to her, scratch-less, looking as it did before (see attachment). I assured her that I could remove the scratches, which are not revealed in the image.

 

I certainly did that, didn't I. Perhaps she'll think it's witty when I say, "Look, no scratches." Then again, perhaps she won't.

[bob493]

With this kind of damage, you're probably better off sanding it flat, applying a GOOD sealer (I use bondo in these situations) and painting it.  Redoing a veneer will be costly and time consuming. Painting it a dark brown or black would be the way to go imo. 

[forager]

I finished the piece without having to paint it or lay new veneer. I scuffed the burnt sections with 100-grit, hoping that the deeper penetrating oil-based stain would adhere to the surface.

It did. I hand-sanded progressively to 220 after staining. Although it set well, the walnut penetrating stain was noticeably darker than the antique walnut gel stain, so I covered the entire piece with 2 coats of java gel stain, and that did the trick. If I hold a bright light immediately above the areas where the veneer was burned, I can see a slight difference between the two areas; but I have to look very closely. The entire piece was finished with 9 coats of wipe-on poly, and I'm very happy with the result, especially given how it looked after I played Rambo with the random orbit sander.

I've attached some images of the finished piece, including one with the interior expanded. The piece extends 8 feet, and has walnut slats that serve as a buffet table, one of which can be seen on the floor. Eventually, I'll stain the slats to match the cabinet. Hopefully, some of you will have re-visited this month-old thread to see the pictures.

My thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

[Bill Tarbell]

Wow that came out great.  Nice save!  Now to the key question... was the wife happy with the results?

[TerryMcK]

It looks great. 

[wtnhighlander]

Well done! That looks awesome.

[..Kev]

Great recovery!

[davewyo]

Yeah, nice save.

Now nobody but us will know...

 

D

[jHop]

My brother in law has one of those, and I've told him repeatedly I'll take it if he ever doesn't want it any more.  Regardless of the condition.  Yours now looks twenty times better than his, and he babies it.

 

If you had not said there were issues, if you had not had photographic proof, I would not believe it.  I think I could show the end result photos to a couple shops in the area and be quoted four figures to buy.  (Maybe low four, but still four.)  I tip my hat to your good repair.