Socket vs tang chisels

[wtnhighlander]

Would anyone care to expound upon the differences, pro and con? Just curious to know why one might be favored over the other in any given circumstance.

[Bob Rozaieski]

I like tanged because they're lighter and less top heavy. If you chop with your fingers holding low on the blade while your hand rests on the board, this makes a big difference. A top heavy socket chisel makes my fingers tired quicker when I'm chopping a lot of dovetails.

Socket chisels will take more of a beating though before the handles split. For carpentry and heavy joinery work, socket chisels are great. For delicate work and light furniture joinery chopping though, tanged chisels get my vote.

[DaveT]

I'd have to agree with Bob although I'm basing my vote purely on reading as I've never used a socketed chisel but the reasoning makes absolute sense.

 

One other thing about socketed though - they come apart. So if you have very large chisels the storage becomes less of a problem although the loose fit can also be bad if it allows the handle to move when in use. That ability would be a big plus if you were an itinerant carpenter travelling around and carrying all your tools.

[wtnhighlander]

Thanks for the info guys!

[G S Haydon]

I was interested in this as well. Having tried both I'm not bothered really, whatever feels right in your hands will be the best. I always though a socket chisel looked clumsy but I found that not to be the case. If you're happy with whatever you are using it's unlikely you'll feel a revelation when you try the other. Grass is always greener and all that.

[Trip]

Obviously, neither is a definitively 'better' design because all chisels would be that 'better' design -- a thousand or two years is certainly adequate for Darwinian chisel evolution... Also, some chisels use both methods -- I've got two sets of Japanese chisels that are both socket and tang -- and I dread the day I'll have to re-handle them... Also, some designs use a tang, but add a bolster to support mallet use (think English Mortiser) – However, as anyone who owns a set of English Mortisers knows, they do tend to split handles... But they’re easy to replace (an advantage)…

 

Socket: Takes a beating, easier to replace than tang, easy to swap handles for paring or mallet use (an advantage). Handles sometimes come loose (disadvantage increases with concrete floor)… The socket adds thickness to the chisel shaft that some find objectionable for delicate operations… If not well designed, can be heavy at the handle… Bench chisels that are intended to be whacked tend to be socket, tang w/ socket and/or tang w/ bolster. If a chisel’s primary use involves a mallet, then tang-alone may not be the best choice – unless you don’t mind replacing handles…

 

Tang: handles don’t come loose, but tend to split more readily. Don’t get me wrong, you can whack a tang chisel, but they do tend to split without a socket/bolster… Some craftsman object to the socket/bolster ‘bulge’ in the shaft of socket chisels when paring or performing other ‘delicate’ operations. Same goes for the balance of socket chisels – many prefer the balance/feel of tang chisels…

 

However, there are no hard/fast rules -- Many craftsmen really like balance/feel of the LN and Stanley designs – these are classic socket designs, but very well executed... That said, tang chisels designed for delicate paring operations tend to have thin/tapered shafts that craftsman associate with fine joinery -- I’ve got a set or two like this and really enjoy the 'feel' of the chisel. Fine paring tang chisels have a certain ‘feel’ quite different from my LN's -- not a 'better' feel, just different... In general fine shaft chisels should not be struck with a mallet – or at least not that hard...

 

What I use: Bench – socket; Paring – tang+socket; Mortise – tang+bolster; Dovetail paring – tang.

[G S Haydon]

Nice write up hhh!

 

Most tang chisels do have a bolster I think (or not ) and a ferrule for good measure.

 

Narex, Tang, bolster & ferrule 

 

 

Ward & Payne Ditto

 

 

Ashley Iles ditto 

 

 

And this is the rub, if you can use a lathe (I can't yet) I would agree with hhh a socket handle will take a moment but if you have a tang you can whittle a nice one without resorting to a lathe.

 

 

I hope that does not come across as me being a dic+, it's just my opinion that it's all about what feels good and is comfortable. On a side note I've not seen many co workers splitting tang chisel handles. The only time I have is when using an estwing with my plastic chisels and even then it's a chunk coming off not a whole handle fail. :-)

[Dan S]

 On a side note I've not seen many co workers splitting tang chisel handles. The only time I have is when using an estwing with my plastic chisels and even then it's a chunk coming off not a whole handle fail. :-)

 

Iv'e seen it happen for a few reasons.

 

1. As you said using a hammer instead of a mallet

2. poor choice in wood - Narly grain is cool to look at but usually doesn't like impacts.

3. Age - the wood dries out and just fractures after years of abuse. 

[G S Haydon]

Nothing wrong with a hammer, just need to use it with restraint (I have failed on this one while on the job site!). Hammers are legit on chisels 

[Tom King]

My timber chisels, hit with a 30 oz. mallet and up, are sockets.  Old Stanleys passed down from my Dad are sockets.  Bench chisels that I use are tangs.

[Tony Wilkins]

Count me in as liking the balance and feel of socket chisels ala LN.  My couple of Blue Spruce (tang but hybrid japanese style) are beautiful and great to use but I end up picking up the socketed LN's more often than not.

[Trip]

==>What I use: Bench – socket; Paring – tang+socket; Mortise – tang+bolster; Dovetail paring – tang.

I had promised a couple of folks that’s I’d post some photos on chisels associated with their respective striking tools…

Important caveat: I’m not a hand-tool guy – I use them on every project, but more for fitting joinery and/or cutting joinery in curved or irregular work pieces… If the piece is rectilinear, then I mostly cut the joinery on the tablesaw, router Domino and/or D-XL… Better info would come from a dedicated Neander – YMMV…

 

I’ve grabbed a couple of chisels and assorted striking tools. I’ve arranged the chisels that are mostly struck with a mallet to those that are hand-push only… The chisels are arranged with the mallets normally used to strike them – from an 24oz mortising mallet on the left, 16oz bench mallet, 13oz carving mallet, 8oz palm mallet to hand-push only... There are socket-type, tang-type, tang+socket and tang+ bolster – really just about every configuration…

 

[G S Haydon]

nice selection hhh! Good to see you posting here again Tony :-)

[Tony Wilkins]

nice selection hhh! Good to see you posting here again Tony :-)

 

The rumors of my death are slightly exaggerated but I'm looking forward to getting out to the workshop.