Eric. Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 ==>as soon as the shop is complete The perfect out... No woodworker ever considers his/her shop 'complete'... At least no woodworker I've ever met.. BTW: I've got the same setup x 2: On the first, I used the longest 36mm hose FT sells so that there is more working pipe available at the tool end. I also encased the hose/electric cord in nylon sleeve to prevent the scuffing of the work surface and the ‘snagging’ that occasionally occurs with corrugated hose on the edge of the work piece... Mounted the UDD backward and used two 90d connectors to permit the pipe to the UDD to be routed along the side of the CT26 to get a smaller hose profile… I sent the suggestion to Oneida and I believe they now supply two 90d elbows with the UDD purchase. I see you’ve got the anti-static retrofit kit – I haven’t bothered… I also discarded the outriggers – I’ve never seen a use for them… There's a post/photo on this setup somewhere... On the second, I mounted a CEROS transformer in a systainer, attached it to the top of the CT26, and ran everything as above... So I've got one CT26/Boom/UDD for FT and one for CEROS. The outriggers...yeah, not so sure I need them. They'll be going away if I find out they're unnecessary. This contraption got a lot bigger than I thought it would and the outriggers make it a flat out monstrosity. Maybe you can help me figure out the anti-static retrofit kit...there was nothing in the instructions about it. The instructions said to use a piece of metal tape to tape down (on the top of the vac below the UDD) the ground wire that was pre-installed on the metal male part of the hose that goes into the vac. Ugh, worst sentence ever. But there was no ground wire. Just metal tape on the end of the hose where it's inserted into the vac. And it has these weird little loops of wire that are on the latches...so I screwed them in even though the instructions didn't even mention them. I have no idea what I was supposed to do with any of it. The suction part I get...the grounding, not so much. I didn't get enough caffeine today. Stupid is just pouring out of me. Not sure if any of that rambling makes any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 My outriggers are folded in and have never been moved out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 ==>nothing in the instructions about it You didn't get an instruction sheet? I think the PDF is on their website... I'll look for the PDF post it. The elbows they sent me already had the foil tape installed. From your photo, it looks like you received a single 90d elbow? Do you have a second, but just didn't install it? ==>weird little loops of wire that are on the latche I've got no idea what those are... Let me do a bit of research... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I got instructions but it made no mention of the grounding aside from taping the pre-installed wire (which was absent entirely) to the top of the vac. I checked the Oneida site for further instruction but came up empty. It was a half-ass effort on my part, though. Late at night and tired. I received a single 90* elbow. It had the foil tape on it. I'll take a pic of the wire loops on the latches when I get home if you're interested or curious... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Just found the wires on Oneida's site. If I had to guess, the wires bridge the bag (if you're using one). I don't think I got them, or I tossed them out... The bag is an insulator, so you need a path from the cyclone to the bin. I'd tie one end to the bolts holding the cyclone to the lid and screw the other end to the bin... My 2c. The second elbow goes onto the top of the cyclone. You can cut-down the hose and re-attach the connector -- or even better, attach the elbow right to the hose and eliminate the connector. You can then route the hose tight along the side of the bin to the CT to the elbow at the CT inlet. I wire-tied the hose to the frame of the boom-arm, then the CT -- much better setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 The wires on the latches aren't long enough to reach the cyclone...they're only a couple inches long. And the cyclone bolts to the top of the bin...shouldn't that bridge the connectivity? Like I said, they only sent me one elbow. Should I assume it's because they changed the set-up a bit and neglected to change the instructions, or did they just screw up and short me one elbow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I’m sticking to the bag-jump theory – so we need a path from the cyclone to the bottom bin. Assuming the top is conductive, you just need to bridge the lid to the bottom bin… You could do that with short wires… I’ll stick to that story until the next time I pull-out the VOM for some other project and check… The reason I asked about the second elbow -- you should have received one with the UDD and a second with the UDD retrofit... The design/config has changed a bit – I know that much. I don’t follow Oneida’s product timeline, so don’t know what they did and when, but I sent them a photo of the two elbow setup sometime in ’13 (or maybe late ’12) and they were going to make the change. If you look at their website, there is one photo with the two elbow setup, but all the older shots are single-elbow. I also sent them some mods for the UDD’s bin to attach securely to the mini/midi hose garage – no idea if they’ve been incorporated yet… I suppose the macro question is: do you get static build with the new retrofit components? If you’re static-free, then you can probably dispense with any more grounding fixes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Don't know...haven't had time to even turn the thing on, much less suck some dust with it. I'll put the whole mystery on pause until I have a chance to use it. Thanks for the help. One question, though...when you say "bottom bin," are you referring to the UDD bin, or the vac bin? Because the cyclone is grounded to the lid of the UDD through the bolts used to secure those two parts, and the lid is grounded to the bin of the UDD with those little wire loops on the latches. The cyclone should also be grounded to the vac bin via the UDD hose... ...assuming all these components are actually conductive. I need to do some sanding and stick my tongue on the hose a few times. 'Tis the season anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 UDD Bin... ==>...assuming all these components are actually conductive yea, that's the assumption... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 ==>weird little loops of wire that are on the latches Re-setting the shop for winter activities (building new furniture) and came-across the UDD Anti-static Kit... Found the wires... Their owner's manual has been updated to reflect the new parts. You loop the two wires through the rubber latches that connect the top to bottom... Why? --The rubber latches doesn't conduct and the foam lid gasket also prevents conductivity. Without the loops, the lid/cyclone lacks a conductive path to lower box... Here's alink to the updated manual... http://www.oneida-air.com/pdf/ultimate-dust-deputy-owners-manual-2014-web.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 Cool. Yeah, that's what I figured and that's how I hooked them up. I've been using the unit with no static issues. We'll see when it gets bone dry in January, but so far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Finally got around to installing the UDD anti-static kit… When installed ‘as provided’, I didn’t get the level of continuity that I was expecting, so decided to make some changes... Substituted the Oneida anti-static hose with a length of wire-reinforced anti-static hose laying around the shop... The setup also shows the two-elbow setup that I mentioned above… The second elbow facilitates a more streamlined hose routing… Oneida applied anti-static tape to one 90* fitting -- I applied tape to the remaining fittings: Taping the rest of the fittings improved continuity, but not to the level that I wanted… So added a length of grounding braid from the cyclone to the CT’s anti-static inlet… I also added hose clamps to all the male/female connections -- this improved foil/foil contact between the parts and vastly improved things... I’m now getting good end-to-end continuity… It won't be a good test until RH gets to around 13% (which only happens when I forget to switch-on the HVAC's humidifier)... <edit> BTW: I do the same setup for my stationary tools… The way to test continuity is to unplug the tool (to remove the second path to earth) and measure continuity from the cast iron table to the cyclone… It’s surprising just how many small (and seemingly trivial) things insulate the connection… For example: paint on the DC inlet port, plastic DC inlet, metal DC port with hidden gasket, wire in flex-hose snaps over time, etc. When I do my annual shop maintenance, I check all machines – and usually find something… You can get a 500’ spool of grounding braid for about $15 from McMaster-Carr. I’d say that around half my stationary tools required some sort of jumper. In one iteration of shop DC, I got so enamored with ductwork sealant that I had to jump some blast gates… It’s surprising what you find when you take the time to check… Hope some of this helps anyone with static problems… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Good stuff, Trip. Thanks. I haven't experienced any shocks yet, but if I do I'll revisit your modifications. Your shop pics are starting to give me an inferiority complex. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 ==>inferiority complex Well, as the girls all say, it's not the tool but how it's pushed... Unfortunately, part of my hobby is screwing with the shop itself... I know many maintain that the shop is the most important tool, but I need to spend more time building and less time tinkering... The problem is that I'm interested by stuff I don't know, so spend time doing research and screwing with alternative ways of doing things... shouldn't take too much of my stuff as advice, I tend to go way overboard... It's residual Engineer in me... The problem is I went to the Dark Side (mgmt) quite a while ago, and been pushing paper ever since... I've found the longer I've been pushing paper, the more I enjoy tinkering... It's all just part of day-job off-gassing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Tell me about it.....(paper....insurance agent) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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