Newbie - First Project - Guidance Needed


Illini40

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Hello everyone,

Yesterday afternoon I worked on my first "non-shop" project - I am excited to just start working on something. But, also I am humbly looking for some help.

This was a very simple project - made some ledge shelves for books in my son's room. These were my first attempt at something that is not remodeling based and not a shop project. I think they are going to turn out OK, but definitely a good learning experience. I feel like I'm lacking in the precision area and still in a construction remodel mode....

Questions that I came up with:

1) Once and for all - which side of the line do I cut on? I know - don't laugh, but I found myself struggling. I was using a Stanley Fat Max tape and a speed square for cross cutting 1x4s on my miter saw. What's the proper way to ensure precision?

2) Consistent cuts - I made three matching shelves. That was my intent anyways - when finished they were not all the exact same length. Close enough, but I know I missed the boat somewhere. I think the cross cuts to length were too long for my table saw at 36" (Ridgid R4512) so I used my Craftsman miter saw that is on a portable stand ( this stand - http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-universal-miter-saw-stand/p-00916491000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1).Until I am able to build a mobile stand, with arms, any tips for setting up stop blocks or other means of repeating consistent cuts? Or should have I done something with the table saw?

3) Square assembly - any tips during assembly to ensure everything stays square and tight? This was a simple project if joining two 1x4s of pine at a 90* with my Kreg Jig and then gluing and nailing a 1x1 3/4" edge to the front to create a lip. Yes - I know the pine from Home Depot is not ideal, but it's what I'm working with. I used a couple of clamps (Kreg face clamp and 90* clamp) but still ended up with not 100% perfect fit. Not sure if I'm missing something here?

Thanks in advance for any guidance. I'm excited to just get started - that was the toughest part....

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I cut to the waste side of the line.

To get repeatable cuts, use a stop block or gang cut the pieces all at once.

For square assembly of an open form, use a speed square or shop made squaring block to clamp against. By open form I mean a shape that doesn't fully enclose a rectangle, triangle or whatever. Keep the alignment block in place until the glue dries. Speaking of glue, that's probably all you needed for the edging strip. Long grain glue joints, assuming they fit properly, are generally stronger than the wood itself.

Keep on building, and asking questions whenever you feel the need! Plenty of experience to be shared around here.

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Always cut on the waste side of the line.

 

Wtnhighlander also hit the nail on the head for getting consistent cuts on pieces that need to be the same size.

 

I'm going to disagree with wtnhighlander on the speed square as I've found that they're not dead on square most of the time.  You should invest in a good square tho.  You'll find over time, you'll end up with 4 or 5 in the shop if you stick with it.  

 

Keeping things square during glue up starts with having perfectly square cuts.  Use that good square to make sure your table saw and miter saw are set up perfectly.   

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Well, yeah, you want to use a square that is actually square. Do a quick check by aligning the square along a known straight edge. The factory edge on a sheet of ply is usually good. Strike a line the length of the square, then flip it over and strike again. If the two lines diverge, your square is not...square.

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Depending on what your using to cut the shelves, always only mark one cut at a time and always cut to the waist side, if you are doing construction type work you may get away with marking multiple pieces and cutting all at once, but if you want them all the same and you are not setting up a stop block, it's mark and cut mark and cut.

And if you are making more than one of something use the same pattern to mark all pieces, they will grow if you cut one and trace it then cut another and trace it...

Hope this is not too redundant

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Thanks for all of the feedback everyone. You have confirmed my thoughts to cut on the waste side.

If I use a stop block, I assume it's not a major worry of how exact I am on marking my line on the wood? In using a tape measure and no. 2 pencil, I feel like I'm not the most accurate in making a small mark that lines up with the measurement on the tape and then use a speed square or combination square to draw the full line on the piece. Sometimes however, that full line then does not directly run over the mark that I made from the tale measure....

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Correct.  If you're using a stop block, each piece is exactly the same.  Now, with that said, if your stop block isn't set correctly, then each piece will be wrong..   As with everything woodworking, a test on scrap first is always the best method to proving results.

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Well all I can add is if your looking for accuracy from your tape, burn an inch, or hold the 1" mark on the end of your workpiece, then add 1" to your measurement. It's more accurate than using the hook, especially if the hook is bent a little or loose.

  Eizzle,

The hook on the end of the tape measure is suppose to be loose. It should move just a bit...the thickness of the metal the hook is made out of. That allows inside measurements to be the same as outside measurements. 

Also, I agree that a bent hook is not a good thing but, if you are using the same tape measure, at least the measurements will be the same. In wood working 1/64"  or even 1/32 doesn't mean a thing as long as they are all the same.

Some people do not even use a tape, they use a story stick for measuring.

 

Rog 

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Eizzle,

The hook on the end of the tape measure is suppose to be loose. It should move just a bit...the thickness of the metal the hook is made out of. That allows inside measurements to be the same as outside measurements.

Also, I agree that a bent hook is not a good thing but, if you are using the same tape measure, at least the measurements will be the same. In wood working 1/64" or even 1/32 doesn't mean a thing as long as they are all the same.

Some people do not even use a tape, they use a story stick for measuring.

Rog

true, but when I had just started in the carpenters union I was cutting drywall for a guy and my cuts all kept coming up 3/8"-5/8" short? The rivet that holds that blade on was loose and catching on the edge of the drywall, that's when my journeyman taught me about burnng an inch and the warrenty on Stanley tape measures

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A tip for extending lines with a square...put your pencil on your mark and butt the blade of the square into the lead.  It's the same for extending marking knife lines...put the knife in the line and butt the square against it.  Doing it the other way around is a fool's errand.

 

As far as where to cut on the line...unless you're framing with 2x4s, it doesn't matter, because you don't cut identical parts that way when building furniture.  You MUST use a stop block or gang-cut your parts.  Otherwise you won't be square.  Elitist lesson for the day. :)

 

For framing, I make a mark dead center on the tape line, then split that line with the blade, leaving the half-mark on the keeper side and cutting it off of the waste side.  This is overkill accuracy for framing, but I'm anal and I'd rather take a little longer building something than be sloppy...since it's not my occupation and time isn't money.

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A tip for extending lines with a square...put your pencil on your mark and butt the blade of the square into the lead.  It's the same for extending marking knife lines...put the knife in the line and butt the square against it.  Doing it the other way around is a fool's errand.

 

As far as where to cut on the line...unless you're framing with 2x4s, it doesn't matter, because you don't cut identical parts that way when building furniture.  You MUST use a stop block or gang-cut your parts.  Otherwise you won't be square.  Elitist lesson for the day. :)

 

For framing, I make a mark dead center on the tape line, then split that line with the blade, leaving the half-mark on the keeper side and cutting it off of the waste side.  This is overkill accuracy for framing, but I'm anal and I'd rather take a little longer building something than be sloppy...since it's not my occupation and time isn't money.

Even in the masonry world we mark with a folding ruler, there is usually a full time saw man who would be instructed to shave the line leaving just a bit of color. If your on the saw and you really want to mess with a guy you carry around a load of colored pencils, cut it where ever you want and add a bit of color to the cut edge, you can ruin a guy's day in a hurry, LOL

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