The "X" table - completed


rodger.

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So if the legs are close to 3" square did you use 10 mm Domino's ? It's looking like a successful glue up !

 

I thought I was! 

 

I set up my domino and made the cuts, but had the wrong bit in! It was an 8mm.  So I used 8mm x 50mm dominos instead of the 10mm I planned for.  Didnt seem to affect the stregth, otherwise I would have added a third domino to compensate.

 

I normally leave the 10mm bit in, but I changed it out for the 8mm for the dining bench build (i used the 8mm for alignment of the seat glue up).  I forgot I had switched it out.  Rookie mistake - I really should have confirmed the bit size.  I discovered my error when I went to place the 10mm domino in an 8mm mortise - d'oh!

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I have made mistakes like that before. Cut some dominos a bit less than in half, glued them in place, recut larger or smaller after drying. Works great!

 

Good tip!

 

I cut a leg mortise incorrectly one time (not enough offset) so i plugged the mortise with a glued domino and flush trimmed it when dry.  Luckily the leg covered my error when properly installed!

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Removing the Clamps and Finish Preparation

 

Clamps are off, and the piece is ready for finish prep. 

 

post-6372-0-26039300-1416882845_thumb.jp

 

The finish choice is a water based dye, and is from General Finishes.  Its "Dark Brown" dye and I did a test piece to ensure it was the colour I wanted.  Top coat will be 5 or 6 coats of Oil based Minwax Wipe-On Polyurethane (Satin).  Ash takes dye and stain pretty well, so I'm going to omit the blotch control.

 

post-6372-0-34199500-1416882978_thumb.jp

 

But, first things first.  I did a whack of hand sanding with 220 (even though I "presanded" everything to 220), and went to 400 on the exposed end grain.  There are 2 small areas that need an epoxy repair, so i mixed up some two part epoxy and put a few drops of the dye in it to make a coloured epoxy filler.

 

post-6372-0-77831000-1416883107_thumb.jp

 

After the epoxy dries (its 5 minute, but ill leave it overnight), I'll scrape away the excess, sand a bit more, grain raise/sand, and then apply the dye.  I should also think about ordering the top soon.  I need to make a cardboard template to ensure the top is the correct size before ordering it.

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Everyone please take notice of the " test finish " effort that went before any actual finish was applied to the actual project ! If you only learn one thing it should be plan ahead and make test finish boards on scrap of the same batch of wood! Kudos to Franklin for setting such a good example !

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Everyone please take notice of the " test finish " effort that went before any actual finish was applied to the actual project ! If you only learn one thing it should be plan ahead and make test finish boards on scrap of the same batch of wood! Kudos to Franklin for setting such a good example !

Well thank you very much - you're making me blush...

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Finish, Glass and Completion

 

Well the table is done and in use. 

 

I used one coat of water based dark brown dye, and let it dry REALLY WELL.  The dye took very well, as expected. 

 

post-6372-0-92944700-1417139052_thumb.jp

 

Then I applied 6 coats of winwax wipe on poly in my usual fashion (first coat heavy with brush and wipe off, second coat heavy with wet sanding and wipe off, and then 4 more coats of light applicaiton with no wipe off).

 

After all the finish dried, I placed the glass top on, and viola!  The top is 54" in diameter, and the table is 30.5" off of the floor.

 

Overall this was a challenging and fun build.  I didnt count the hours, but I bet I spent as much time designing as I did building.  In the end, it came out great and I am happy with it.  I only need to get some small rubber "feet" to sit between the glass and wood to avoid scratching the glass.  I'll come back in a few weeks and rub it all out with wax and 0000 steel wool.

 

Thanks for all the comments and questions.  This was my first online project journal, and it was kind of fun to have people follow my build.  I will certainly do another.

 

The final product:

 

post-6372-0-95693100-1417139096_thumb.jp

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I really like your table but, I have one stupid question. How do you keep the top from sliding around on top of the legs?

I know that the glass must be very heavy and having three legs helps a lot but still, keeping it centered, even just for looks, might be a problem.

I sure would warn people about leaning on it!

 

Rog 

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I really like your table but, I have one stupid question. How do you keep the top from sliding around on top of the legs?

I know that the glass must be very heavy and having three legs helps a lot but still, keeping it centered, even just for looks, might be a problem.

I sure would warn people about leaning on it!

 

Rog

It doesn't have any issues I have noticed yet with sliding. The top is pretty heavy, but I agree that I need some high friction pads/bumpers just in case someone bumps it hard. I also don't want any scratches, so the pads should help. I'll visit a glass shop this weekend to see what's available.

As for leaning, I have put a lot of weight on it with no wobble or tipping.

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Cork works really well for glass tops Pug. I've used bits cut from cork floor tiles before now. Resilience and a bit of friction. You can even stain it the same colour as the legs.

Interesting idea, may give it a try. I really like the look of the exposed end grain through the glass, so I want to keep it as visible as possible

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Ace Hardware or the like will have little clear vinyl squares which are intended as cabinet door bumpers.

They'll be there with the felt pads.

They are thick for your application, but you could slice them thin (on the bandsaw, or you could run them through the shaper :rolleyes: ).

 

Dave

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