Brendon_t Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 As bob493 recommended in the other red oak thread, I am finishing my exterior door project with the dark brown leather dye. I intend to finish the project with the neural base #4 untinted exterior paint. Does anybody see any issues with this top coat over the dye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 What is the carrier? What kind of dye is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 http://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Leather-Dye-Black-4oz/dp/B000HHM20M/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415576030&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=fyebings+dye Here is the dye but in black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 http://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Leather-Dye-Black-4oz/dp/B000HHM20M/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415576030&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=fyebings+dye Here is the dye but in black. That says alcohol , no mention of the dye. I'd probably put a coat of sprayed shellac on it to seal the dye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I don't have the ability to spray. Here was the plan Is there a problem with running this over alcohol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 I don't have the ability to spray. Here was the plan Is there a problem with running this over alcohol? The carrier is not the issue its the dye. First I have no idea what kind of dye it is. The shellac is to keep it from bleeding into the finish. I think you can get it in a rattle can of shellac. Lastly on an exterior door you need a dye that is UV resistant and I doubt leather dye falls into that category. I would use real woodworking dyes or stains rather than makeshift methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 If I contact the manufacturer, should they be able to inform me what dye is used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob493 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Make sure you do more than one coat of this stuff. Apply a couple coats spread over a week, this stuff gets absorbed very deeply. For finishing, I do a sealer coat of shellac, and I've used polyurethane, spar varnish, 2k urethane, enamel and nitro over it. None have had any issues. If you want it to be color fast, apply some UV protective clear (spar varnish since you're not looking for a glass coat. It has protectants in it). It's just an alcohol based dye, so seal it up with some spray shellac, which can be purchased at pretty much any hard ware store, same with spar varnish. If you'd like to spray, home depot sells preval units which work VERY WELL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Thanks for your input Bob. I would love to start spraying and have a decent size compressor (30 gal) but I have heard there is way more to it than an air source and spray gun. I've seen the terms water separator and inline filter and a dozen others that make me think I need top learn way more before I can spray anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob493 Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Learning your finishes is half the battle. Substrates, primers, colors, top clears, all of it has their own special nuances. Your best source of information is honestly to do your own research. That said, a decent spray rig doesn't have to be expensive. The gun is the most important part in my opinion. Oil/water separators and filters aren't incredibly expensive. Most decent air compressors come with these already, make sure your's doesn't. http://www.tcpglobal.com/SGT-99000_2.html?gclid=CIjNiaWPg8ICFU9k7Aodb3gADw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted December 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 So an unfortunate update on this technique. The leather dye has had over two weeks to dry and set and looked amazing. I finished a few test boards with the dye, then sprayed shellac in 4 very thin coats and it looked great. Painted over the shellac with the neural base trim and siding paint and was EXTREMELY happy with how it looked. Yesterday evening, I cleaned up the door really well, and laid the first coat of shellac on the inside. . . To say it looks terrible is an under statement. It appears that the shellac dehydrated the dye and it is extremely blotchy now under the shellac.. Unless I can figure out a fix, I'm going to have to paint the whole door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Update on a long running project, the door dyed up very nicely. The weather has not at all been cooperative with painting so it has been 5-6 days between coats. This is the outside surface with 2 coats on it. I learned on the inside that especially with oil based paint, you need to do very thin coats. I am painting in the garage and slathered the first coat which resulted in 10-15 spots of crazy wrinkling orange peel where the top layer dried and did not allow the stuff under it to dry. I'm thinking I will very lightly cut around those places with a razor blade and lift out the bad part then spread new paint on in very thin coats until the spot is blended. Other ideas welcome and appreciated. edit: quit staring at my disgusting garage.. Were in the middle of a renovation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Looks familiar ! I just finished a bunch of red oak with black dye and a clear topcoat. It can be tricky but the grain pattern showing through the finish does have a certain appeal ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerrySats Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Just curious why you used a leather dye? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 I use this exact dye on leather projects. There is a couple of finishes you can use, but PB already said the preferred one. Yes, this stuff will fade, which is why most of the time leather does not get a sealant finish. Leather has more of a moisture issue than wood, but it's willing to accept oils as a substitute. Most of the time, I've just left the leather alone after dying it, unless I want a particular place to remain a specific color. I did have an instance in jr. high where I painted a tool box with one rattle can, and the next day grabbed a different can of a different color (because someone else was using the first one). That's when I had my crinkle issue: the upper coat wasn't the same as the lower coat. (Latex/Enamel. Lesson learned.) Hope that's not your issue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 to make a long story shorter, this door is for my parents who have always had a red or blue painted door on the house. When they asked me to build the door I tried to talk them into keeping it natural wood because I was planning on using mahogany. Both of them adamantly disagreed and said they wanted to paint it. In my opinion painting over mahogany is sacrilegious so I switched over to a cheaper alternative of red oak. when I got to the lumberyard to buy my stock I joes the cleanest pieces regardless off if they were from the same tree or not. After the door was built in san did they both love the national would so much they change their mind and decided they wanted to stain instead. Well the text cross beans that were obviously from a different tree did not stain even close to what the rest of the door was. So 1 staind I had 3 different colors on the door, the frame the cross members and the panels. No amount of tinting helps game a uniform color. the leather dye was a last ditch effort recommended by a member here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 to make a long story shorter, this door is for my parents who have always had a red or blue painted door on the house. When they asked me to build the door I tried to talk them into keeping it natural wood because I was planning on using mahogany. Both of them adamantly disagreed and said they wanted to paint it. In my opinion painting over mahogany is sacrilegious so I switched over to a cheaper alternative of red oak. when I got to the lumberyard to buy my stock I joes the cleanest pieces regardless off if they were from the same tree or not. After the door was built in san did they both love the national would so much they change their mind and decided they wanted to stain instead. Well the text cross beans that were obviously from a different tree did not stain even close to what the rest of the door was. So 1 staind I had 3 different colors on the door, the frame the cross members and the panels. No amount of tinting helps game a uniform color. the leather dye was a last ditch effort recommended by a member here. Wood does not have to come from the same tree. You just need to pay closer attention next time. It helps to have a good eye for color and grain. Keep in mind with large flat pieces like doors and cabinets it can be difficult. Pro cabinet shops, door companies or furniture companies don't rummage through stacks of lumber looking for the best match. Even most small shop buy computer picked lumber separated into groups that can easily be equalized. Most makeshift finishing methods are going to have draw backs but you can only do what you can do. A spray stain would have done what you needed it to do and been ready to top coat in 20 minutes. That being said you learned, move on to the next project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Pb, I understand they don't need to come from the same tree per say. It is my opinion that the two different boards of "red oak" were not even the same species. It was definitely my fault but again, wouldn't have been a problem if they stayed with the plan to paint. Live and learn. Everybody has a plan until you get punched in the face. . - Mike Tyson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 I wanted to bring this TTT . The door is finally hung. The moulding still needs finished and we are painting a deep brown with a bit of red in it. My parents(the owners) are extremely happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPCV_Woodworker Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 A fine looking door. Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Very nice! Color is awesome, and the door construction looks spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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