wouldwurker Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Seems every article I read online really gives paste wax a bad rap. Most of which say that once you apply it ,that's it, you can never refinish ever again and you're stuck with it for life. Any attempt at sanding will just spread the disease. Now I think most of these articles are aimed towards folks that want to restore or refinish an old piece. On projects in which I use danish oil (generally as a timesaver), after a month or so, I give it a nice coat of paste wax, be it Minwax or Johnsons, for a little extra smoothness, and a bit of luster. Should I not be doing this? Does it impede my ability to touch up or recoat with danish oil again? Plus, when I give these away as presents it's easier for me to say' give it a coat of paste wax once every year or two', then to instruct someone to reapply danish oil. Thanks for your feedback 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick A McQuay Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Since I hate refinishing and most of my projects are for myself/family, I'll be in the grave before any are refinished. So wax is someone else's problem. - sent via Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 I'm no pro but I love the stuff, light coat of stain, a little steel wool and wax, unless it's getting a clear coat then after about the 3rd coat of clear, steel wool and polish with a paste wax some times with the little 3' direct drive buffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted November 19, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Wax be good. Plus, it can help you learn Karate. Wax on, wax off. Wax on, wax off.... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 I think the wax is more a problem for the pros using spray polyurethane. I like Danish oil and wax and if I did have to refinish something waxed I wouldn't balk at a thin coat of shellac to seal in old wax, but I can see why a professional refinisher who wants to spray a whole bedroom set after stripping it in a dunk tank would advise work methods that make his life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Wax is good as long as you dont apply too much, wait for it to haze over before buffing, and you wait long enough for your finish to cure before applying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Seems every article I read online really gives paste wax a bad rap. Most of which say that once you apply it ,that's it, you can never refinish ever again and you're stuck with it for life. Any attempt at sanding will just spread the disease. Now I think most of these articles are aimed towards folks that want to restore or refinish an old piece. On projects in which I use danish oil (generally as a timesaver), after a month or so, I give it a nice coat of paste wax, be it Minwax or Johnsons, for a little extra smoothness, and a bit of luster. Should I not be doing this? Does it impede my ability to touch up or recoat with danish oil again? Plus, when I give these away as presents it's easier for me to say' give it a coat of paste wax once every year or two', then to instruct someone to reapply danish oil. Thanks for your feedback I think a lot of it, is people regurgitating a lot of misconstrued information. Some waxes like those that contain silicone can build up and be hard to deal with, but a good paste wax can be removed with mineral spirits. Not to mention if your are going to refinish a piece you are probably going to sand back to bare wood anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob493 Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Its an old adage of "silicone" that Dan is mentioning. While its true, silicone based products are impossible to finish over, I personally have NEVER had a problem sanding to bare wood and refinishing. Another option is that people put on wax on open grained woods, and it builds up in the grain and looks terrible. What most DONT know is theres an EASY fix for that, just get some vegetable oil and a toothbrush, takes no effort at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted November 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Another option is that people put on wax on open grained woods, and it builds up in the grain and looks terrible. What most DONT know is theres an EASY fix for that, just get some vegetable oil and a toothbrush, takes no effort at all. Good tip, but why veggie oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Vinn, I'm glad you brought this topic up. I've wondered the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raefco Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 i have used I like wax with some finishes like shellac. Rubbing out shellac with wax and steel wool gives you a nice result. Poly takes forever to cure so I don't bother with wax/rubbing it, and it tends to level out pretty good anyhow. Lacquer rubs out nicely without wax. Shellac also benefits from the extra (but temporary) protection. But I have nothing against wax at all. you can add some of this, or a similar product, to the minwax poly and it will set to a hardness that can be buffed with steel and waxed for a very nice satin finish, over night. you would most likely have to find a store that deals in automotive finishes, thats what limco is and in is very affordable if you can locate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Mosher Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 The Smithsonian uses a micro-crystalline wax as part of the regular maintenance of their collection of Chippendale Furniture. (although I doubt they are planning on stripping and refinishing anytime soon) I have finished over many pieces of furniture that have had wax applied and have had no problems other than maybe a few "hot spots" that dry a little slower. I wouldn't recommend using an oil based or WB finish over wax without completely cleaning the wax off with naptha or mineral spirits though. These finishes require a mechanical bond between coats and will simply peel off if applied directly over wax. Wax also makes an excellent finish over raw wood, it is used very extensively in the UK. I believe Fiddes is one of the favorites. Here is an excerpt from an article from the Smithsonian on Furniture Care and Handling: Following simple cleaning, further protection and aesthetic enhancement can be obtained through the application of a stable, hard furniture polish, such as a hard paste wax. The hard wax surface can be dusted more easily because it will be more smooth, and the dust will not be imbedded in it as it would in an unwaxed surface. Waxing need only occur infrequently because the wax itself is not readily removed and it does not degrade chemically. Waxing too often can result in a built-up, clouded surface. This simple approach avoids the problems created by popular methods of "furniture polishing" - such as sprays and oily polishes - that may result in cumulative damage to furniture. Many polishes and residues continue to be a vexing problem for furniture conservators, as they can build up over time and with numerous applications, trapping and adhering airborne dirt onto the surface. Here is a link to the entire article. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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