dwacker Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 So you have a 10ft board 9" wide 15/16 thick. You need as many as you can get 2" x 36" 3/4 thick boards. Whats your work flow or milling process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Let me guess:Cut 10' board into (3) equal length pieces w/ jig saw, circular saw or chop saw. (I don't like messing with 10' boards.)Joint one face and one edge of each board. (Surface planer for you Brits.)Cut each board into (3) 2" wide boards on table saw (jointed edge against fence). My saw is clean enough that I don't need to joint the sawn edges.Plane (thickness planer for you Brits) each piece to 3/4".Cut each piece to 36", cutting off any snipe.Yield, (9) pieces 36" x 2" x 3/4". [ Edit: 9" divided by 2" = 4, not 3, so 12, not 9. Thanks for catching that, Boatworks. ]If snipe is going to be an issue, then joint and plane the 10' board, cut off snipe, then cut into three shorter pieces.If necessary, joint each cut face after cutting on table saw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 My approach. Cut the 10 foot board down into 3' 4" lengths with a miter saw put the board on my planer sled since my jointer is only 8" wide and plane all 3 boards to get them flat on one side, remove from sled and plane them to final thickness. Joint 1 edge of each board 90 degrees to the face. Square up 1 short edge on my table saw sled. Set my stop block on my cross cut sled on my table saw to 36" flip the board and cut it to 36" length. Set my fence to 2" and rip 4 boards from each piece giving you a total of 12 2" x 3/4" x 36" Reasoning behind not ripping to a smaller size on the band saw from the get go is I don't know what the edges of the rough stock look like. Taking into account that my blade is 1/8" thick and the board is 9" before squared up 3/8" of that extra 1 inch of buffer is going to saw kerf. Though if the edge is in decent shape I'd rip it first and then joint and plane the ripped boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Similar to Beech, but providing there isn't a lot of straightening to do, you should be able to get 4 pieces on the width yielding 12 total and a nice cutoff to set a cold drink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Mike hits an important first step in checking for defects that need to be removed. The OP leaves out what condition the board is in. If the board is in great shape, then I would not cut it into 3 pieces first. I would go straight to the planer to get it close, rough cut the 3 pieces I wanted, then square up the sides, then use the drum sander to dial in to final thickness. From there, as they're short enough, I would square the ends and cut to final length on my table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Three lengths three rips flatten one face on each joint one edge keeping flat face against fence Plane to thickness rip using already jointed edge on the six pieces joint six more edges rip and joint until done first rip width may vary depending on how stable the wood is. If old heart pine like I normally work with, no worries about anything moving after a rip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ChetlovesMer Posted November 19, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 I'd run the board through the shaper until final thickness is achieved. Then cut them off at the shaper to get them to final length. Then use the shaper to get them to final width Then remove any defects at the shaper table. Finally do some finishing of each board with the shaper, at this point you should have no fewer than a dozen well shaped boards. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Make 2 wrong cuts and head back to the lumber yard Actually, I would plane the entire 10' board to 3/4". Trim the snipe from each end leaving approx. 9'2" board. Cut this into 3 ea. 36" pieces on miter saw. Take to table saw and rip these into 12 ea. 2" x 36" pieces. Like above, assuming the entire board is usable and flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Just choked laughing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Sorry PB, I was feeling a little snarky when I wrote my first response. I guess my answer would be pretty similar to Beechwood Chip. But I'd have to confess I'd try and squeeze 4 boards, 2" wide out of the 9" wide pieces. If I'm able to achieve that I'd get 12 total boards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 I'd run the board through the shaper until final thickness is achieved. Then cut them off at the shaper to get them to final length. Then use the shaper to get them to final width Then remove any defects at the shaper table. Finally do some finishing of each board with the shaper, at this point you should have no fewer than a dozen well shaped boards. ROFL. I think I just peed a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 So you have a 10ft board 9" wide 15/16 thick. You need as many as you can get 2" x 36" 3/4 thick boards. Whats your work flow or milling process? assuming the board is free of defects that you can find by looking at it I would do the following. 1. cross cut the board into 3 equal length pieces 2. Joint one edge off each board (this step isn't needed if it has a decent edge that has been strait line ripped) 3. Using the bandsaw and the strait edge as a reference, cut each board into 4 equal width pieces 4. flatten one face of each piece 5. thickness each piece 6. Joint the edge of each piece 8. bring each board down to final width using table saw or planer depending on tolerance and or surface finish required 9. trim each piece to length at the table saw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted November 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 I'd run the board through the shaper until final thickness is achieved. Then cut them off at the shaper to get them to final length. Then use the shaper to get them to final width Then remove any defects at the shaper table. Finally do some finishing of each board with the shaper, at this point you should have no fewer than a dozen well shaped boards. Close But really I lean the board against the wall and chalk off the rough cuts (tape permanently stuck to wall) Cross cut (rough) on tablesaw Rip all on band saw (rough) Face joint and edge joint (one edge) Back fence final edge to to final width on the shaper. Either straight or add joinery now at same time. To the planer to drill down thickness Through the sander. Stack and gang trim on tablesaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Llama Posted November 19, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Here it is. Brutal honesty. Bring board into shop. Take a few pictures. Work on something else for a while. Go eat something. Forget what I had to do, stumble around the house for an hour. Remember a movie I wanted to watch. Dial up Netflix on my laptop. Get a drink. Just before the movie starts, remember that I was suppose to cut a board. Watch movie. Get another drink. Post my pics on WTO, facebook and send 15 texts to people showing everyone the cool board I have in my shop. Open the door to go to the shop, realize it's cold and abandon that idea. Day two: Morning routine (I'll spare the details) Go to shop. Think about how I'm going to cut a 10' board. Send TIODS a message about workflow. Fight to get the board to the SCMS. Rough cut the board on the SCMS. Edge joint on jointer. Joint again with hand plane because I'd feel better about myself after hitting it with a hand plane. Rip on bandsaw. Flatten face on jointer. Wrestle my planer onto something flat. Send boards through planer. But not quite all the way, have to leave a few whiskers for the hand plane shots I'll show later. Hand plane boards to thickness, and eliminating snipe. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Should of caught me on day 1.. I'm way smarter then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 first thing I would do is get out a wood stretcher, because I'm gonna be 2 saw blades width short of getting the length cut into 3 equal 36" boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Assuming a flat, straight, S4S board, and a 1/8" saw kerf: 9" = 72/8. 3/4+1/8=7/8. 72/7=10.285, so rip the board into 3/4 x 15/16 x 120" sticks (10 of them), with a thin strip to discard. 10 * 15/16 = 150/16 width after gluing all the 3/4 faces together. 2" = 32/16, add the kerf to make 34/16 per rip. 150/34=4.41 sticks @ 2" x 3/4". Crosscut to 36", resulting in 12 pcs @ 2x3/4x2, plus some thin strips that can be glued up to get enough for a 13th stick. I'm pretty sure there is enough material in the discard after the first ripping to get a 14th piece, but I'm too sleepy to go do the math again. Dumps some glue in the sawdust pile, and you might even get a 15th stick of home made mdf... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 The first, most important, and most popular trend everyone left out to begin what the original post asked. Buy new tools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
collinb Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 The first, most important, and most popular trend everyone left out to begin what the original post asked. Buy new tools. Perhaps that is assumed and simply unspoken. Of course these must be tools that you've never used before. And who cares if they're not used for this project. They exist for their own sake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.