Bandsaw washboarding

[daviddoria]

I recently got a 14" bandsaw and threw this cheap Bosch blade (1/2", 4 TPI) on it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_330896-353-BS9312-4F_0__?productId=3197469&Ntt=bandsaw+blade+4tpi&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dbandsaw%2Bblade%2B4tpi&facetInfo=

 

I am getting a pretty awful washboard texture on my cuts of thicker stock (about 3", walnut). Would you guys guess that this blade is probably what is causing the rough cut?

 

Thanks,

David

[..Kev]

It could be the blade, it could be the feed rate, or it could be set up.

 

Suggest first making sure the saw is set up properly.  Then, adjusting your feed rate to see if it makes any difference.  Then I'd look into the blade.

 

Also, are you trying to cut curves or straight lines with that blade?

[dwacker]

The blade. Bosch I believe is Vermont america.

[daviddoria]

TIODS,

 

I am feeding quite slow (I can time it on the next cut I make if that will help) - would you say going slower or faster would help this problem? I am cutting curves, but they are not very tight. They move off of straight about an inch over a 15" length.

 

Particle Board,

 

Are you suggesting that blades made in Vermont are inherently bad? What am I looking for in a replacement? Less set? Thicker or thinner steel?

[dwacker]

TIODS,

 

I am feeding quite slow (I can time it on the next cut I make if that will help) - would you say going slower or faster would help this problem? I am cutting curves, but they are not very tight. They move off of straight about an inch over a 15" length.

 

Particle Board,

 

Are you suggesting that blades made in Vermont are inherently bad? What am I looking for in a replacement? Less set? Thicker or thinner steel?

 

You don't need anything special just a good quality blade. I have mine made but Woodcraft or any woodworking store will have better blades.

[..Kev]

TIODS,

 

I am feeding quite slow (I can time it on the next cut I make if that will help) - would you say going slower or faster would help this problem? I am cutting curves, but they are not very tight. They move off of straight about an inch over a 15" length.

 

Particle Board,

 

Are you suggesting that blades made in Vermont are inherently bad? What am I looking for in a replacement? Less set? Thicker or thinner steel?

 

Like PB, I suspect the blade as well but, those other items are important too.  If you're feeding slow and the saw is set up well, then I'd suggest buying a decent blade for it.  You should be able to get a good blade for 20 or 25 bucks.

[Boatworks Today]

HERE is a decent place to buy blades if you don't have a good store near you.  I wouldn't say they are the best of the best, but a very good 'general purpose' manufacturer.  It's where I buy most of my blades, as do many of the members here on the forum

[Tom Cancelleri]

Also, blade width plays a factor. When I resaw I use a TimberWolf 3/4" blade with 3-4 skip tooth 

[Barron]

A 3/4" blade may be hard to tension on a lot of 14" bandsaws. I would recheck the set up, even a cheap blade should start out cutting OK, they just don't last very long.

[customwood montrose]

If your going to do a lot of resawing, go look at the Wood Slicer from Highland Hardware. They make them in 1/2" which will fit the 14" bandsaws. I use one on my saw and have recommended them to lots of other people who then have told me they love them! Dustin

[tim0625]

Also, blade width plays a factor. When I resaw I use a TimberWolf 3/4" blade with 3-4 skip tooth 

I was using a Timberwolf blade like this for slicing some boards off of a log.  I fed it too fast and the blade got hung up and jumped off of the wheel binding the blade against the saw and bending a tooth a little.  I tried to bend it back but it's hard to get it just right.  It cuts now with a washboard look.  You may just have a blade that has a tooth that's out of set either because of a low quality blade or you've bent it.  I'd say replace the blade with a good quality blade and you're in business.

[daviddoria]

Thanks guys - I asked Santa for a Timberwolf - I'll let you know how it goes!

[tcarswell]

I had the same issue until I upgraded read this as well http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/squeal.htmland I love my timberwolf blades they are just awesome in my opinion. Everyone has their preferences though so you will hear varying opinions.

[Boatworks Today]

Thanks guys - I asked Santa for a Timberwolf - I'll let you know how it goes!

 

I think you're going to see a world of difference between the two blades

[tcarswell]

Agreed boatworks. I got a Vermont American blade after my grizzly g0555lx showed up. I was utterly disappointed until I slapped on a timberwolf blade. My suggestion is to use the flutter method to tension the timberwolf blade and at least for the low tension blade ignore your factory gauge. What saw are you using ?

[daviddoria]

Great - I'm looking forward to it. It is the Porter Cable 14" saw. I'll have to look into the flutter method - I've just been using the "tension until the blade deflection before getting a white fingertip is about a 1/4"" method with the old blades.

[minorhero]

Ah, there it is. Your blade is not tight enough.

[wdwerker]

I looked up the specs on your saw. I was amazed to see a cast iron frame on a saw at that price. The other thing that might improve your cut quality is better guides. My old Delta cuts so much better with ball bearing guides. If the bearing guides aren't available for your saw "cool blocks" would help as well. Another trick is to dress the back corners of your blade. A stone is used to slightly round the back edge and it improves curve cutting.

Proper adjustment and set up is key to any bandsaw.

[daviddoria]

Apple Wood - I've heard that is the way to tension just about everywhere, what would you recommend instead?

 

wdwerker - yea, it seemed like it had a lot of the "big boy" features, so I went with it. It does have ball bearing guides. I'll try the new blade in a couple of weeks - if it doesn't magically fix the problem I'll try some of these things.

[minorhero]

Bandsaw blades need to be tighter. You can buy fancy gauges that will measure tension or you can just do some trial and error. Eventually you will get an idea of how a blade on your saw needs to be to get a clean cut. There is no other good way to describe it. Try tightening it up a bunch and see how it cuts. Adjust in your blade guides as well.

[dwacker]

Small blades do not need loads of tension 1/4" deflection is about right. The flutter method works out to about the same. Try the flutter method and compare it to your deflection method. This will give you a good feel. Keep in mind once you get the flutter out of the blade you need to back off, the flutter method is best for bigger saws no flutter on a small saw is way over tensioned.

[AceHoleInOne]

Before you go spend the money on a new blade. Make sure your setup is correct. Often times if the back of the blade engages the back bearings and the back bearings are set improperly on an angle, cause the front of the teeth to move directions, thus resulting a poor cut.

 

Another thing to check, make sure the teeth of the blade are riding on the center of the tire. If the fat part of the blade is riding on the crowned center or past center, your teeth are actually hung over the high side of the tire causing the teeth to deflect. 

 

Remember, the side blade bearing (guides) are only to keep the blade on track. You shouldn't have any friction whatsoever on side bearings which cause heat and can change the blades dynamics. 

 

-Ace-

[woodieboy]

The best way to make your band saw run right, before anything else, follow the band saw tune up procedure by Alex Snodgrass.There are lots of factors that caused your problem, feed rate, tension, blade guides set up and blade problem.